Which oil for Mitshubishi 3.0 V6 engine

I have 96' Grand Voyager Plymouth with 3.0 V6 Mitshubishi engine and
Don't know which oil I shoul use: mineral, semi-synthetic or synthetic?

proxy

 

Great. Here we go with another synthetic vs dino oil debate, sure to be
populated quickly by the Amsoil religious, the Pennsylvania crude and the
non-Pennsylvania crude advocates, as well as those with an axe to grind
against Alaskan pipelines, the Middle East, Islam and the anti-Seagull
slickers and the whale whackers. Ought to be pretty good. Maybe I should
throw out the first NAZI! comment right now, or perhaps take a gratuitous
swipe against Dick Cheney and the Republican party and save everyone the
trouble.

Or you could just go to the f*cking auto parts store and buy the 5W30 that's
on sale. Or learn how to search for previous threads in this endless
troll-favored debate.

--Geoff

 

Geoff,

You missed the Druids and Halliburton in your list.

Mike

 

Gee, whiz, I thought I had Haliburton covered with the Dick Cheney thing.
Whoops!

--Geoff

 

Where do you live?
If in areas where it gets REAL cold, use Synth. Otherwise semi or
standard oil is acceptable. I used 10W40 Castrol for years - using
Havoline now.

 

Not one North American car company recommends or has recommended 10W-40 for
years. The excessive viscosity index improver was implicated in excessive
varnish production resulting in stuck and cracked rings.

Use any major brand oil of the proper quality grade in the venders
recommended viscosity. 5W-30 in cold weather is usually preferred and 10W-30
in other conditions works well in that motor.

Richard.

 

This is ONLY a problem with extended drain intervals, andin my 1988
Chrysler manual under lubrication, indicates 15w40 is the preferred
oil for operation above 10 degrees F.
The "range" of 5 w 30 oil is the same as 10W40, and uses the same
viscosity improvers. I have had more problems with cheap crap grade
10W30 oils than any other. You know the stuff you get at the
drivethrough oil change place, complete with the fram or Penzoil
filter for $9.99.
The 10W40 and 15W40 oils are generally only available in the premium
oils. Ditto for 20W50.

Now for some experience. Remember when the Ford 2300 engines in the
Mush Stang 2 was having camshaft problems, particularly south of the
Mason Dixon Line???? They fairly quickly found that running 20W50 oil
in the summer, and 10W40 the rest of the year totally eliminated the
camshaft problems. TOTALLY. Not ONE failure in the test group running
20W50 and 10W40, vs a fairly high percentage with the recommended
5W30.

Toyota 3M and 4M engines in Crowns, Mk2s, Cressidas and Supras were
having problems with camshafts and rockers under warranty in the late
seventies and early eighties. The warranty service rep asked how we
had managed to get away with NO camshaft and rocker replacements under
warranty, while the dealer accross town was doing a couple a week -
and we were selling as many, and servicing more, than they were.
I took him to the oil barrel and showed him.
I NEVER used 5W30 oil, Never used 10W30 oil.
From April on, the tank was filled with 20W50, untill Sept /Oct when
it went to 10W40.
Not only did we not replace cams and rockers, I could likely count on
the fingers of one hand how many bearing or timing chain problems we
had in 10 years - servicing over 600 vehicles a year.

Remember the 2600 cc Mitsu Shitty "Hemi" in the early Dodge
MagicWagons??? That 6 foot long timing chain with the crappy
tensioners???? 10W40 and 20W50 oil, changed 4 times a year, made them
last hundreds of thousands of Kms. Without sounding like a cement
mixer. Never saw one using the heavier oil seize the balance shafts
either - saw more than one running 5W30.
Know something? Didn't have the sticky ring oil burning problems
either.

C.A.F.E. pretty well mandated the recommendation of low viscosity and
"friction reducing" oils.


Chrysler is covering their ass saying not to use 10W40 oil because of
the "politically correct" decision to recommend 12000 Km (7500mile)
oil change intervals.
The "extreme" or "severe" operating condition schedule is 3 months,
3000 miles - and in that time period shear failure of 10W40 oil is a
total non-issue.

If you want to stay within Chrysler's recommendation, you can't go
wrong with 15W40 Rotella changed 4 times a year if operating temps do
not go below 10F.

..

 

10W40 is not only not recommended in any newer vehicle I'm aware of, but
is explicitly prohibited in many vehicles.

The recommendation to use synthetic is good, but the 10W40
recommendation is very bad.


Matt

 

Ever told a friend about a newsgroup and they were like lost and did not
even know UUNET existed. So then you explain how to grab a news browser or
use outlook to ask for help in a newsgroup, but you forget to tell them all
the intricacies of first searching the groups and checking the FAQ's (Nah!
of course you haven't).

Point is, he/she could always just dump some Canola in there to avoid any of
your motioned (and highly enlightening) problems, or maybe just wait for a
response for someone a little more civil than yourself that may be willing
to help someone out with an answer to their question (that is one of the
purposes of these groups by the way), or at least politely point them in the
correct direction.

 

Not sure what area of the country or what kind of mileage, but generally
speaking any 5W30 in extreme cold conditions, or 10W30 in average temp
climate is acceptable. Yes some will swear by a certain brand, but I have
never had issue with my Caravans and always grab the sale stuff.

I say NEVER use any of the miracle additives!

 

Attention, Miss Manners: **** you!
--Geoff