What engine needed special low coking oil?

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by Morgans, Nov 4, 2006.

  1. Morgans

    Morgans Guest

    Hey gang. I was reading this group a few months back, and I remember a
    discussion coming up about a certain Chrysler engine having problems with
    the timing idler coking up, and breaking the timing belt/chain.

    I have searched for it on Goggle, but I can't come up with any results like
    I remember.

    Can anyone help me out with this, and what engine it was. My daughter in
    law is looking at a Chrysler, and I have a feeling that it has the suspect
    engine.

    Thanks!

    Jim in NC
     
    Morgans, Nov 4, 2006
    #1
  2. Morgans

    DeserTBoB Guest

    That would be the 2.7 V6. Peek in the valve cover to look for signs
    of sludging. If the engine has been well maintained, it shouldn't be
    a problem, but it pays to run synthetic and change it like you would
    non-synthetic.

    I had hoped to buy a nice Intrepid with the 2.7, because the old gal
    who owns it was scared by her kid into thinking the engine was going
    to fall out of it. I had offered her above high book, but then told
    her I didn't think her son knew WTF he was talking about. After a
    trip to the Chrysler dealer to look at what's available, she decided
    to keep the Intrepid and change the oil 3 times a year instead of 2.
    Her comment: "My, what positively UGLY cars!"
     
    DeserTBoB, Nov 5, 2006
    #2
  3. Morgans

    Morgans Guest

    Thanks.
     
    Morgans, Nov 5, 2006
    #3
  4. Morgans

    Morgans Guest

    Have they fixed the problem with a coked timing idler handgrenading the
    engine, and if so, what year did they fix it? If frequent oil changes with
    the recommended oil, is there a mileage where it is a wise thing to replace
    the idler and timing chain? (Is it a chain, or belt- I'm guessing a belt,
    since it is where oil is running around.)

    I noticed that the oil filler had a marking on it recommending 5w - 20 oil,
    or something weird like that that. I thought that was strange, anyway!
     
    Morgans, Nov 6, 2006
    #4
  5. Morgans

    Bill Putney Guest

    They made some changes in '00 that they kind of kept quiet about -
    larger oil pump capacity, improved PCV, and possibly some other changes
    affecting oil return passages (like I say, they haven't been too free
    with documenting the changes lest they effectrively admit that there
    were problems that needed fixing). The fact that they're using the 2.7
    on the new lines as their base engine, and we aren't hearing reports of
    problems is a good sign (that they fixed the problems) - the problems
    were real, and it would be unimaginable for them to continue the use of
    the engine to this extent without them fixing the problems to their own
    satisfaction.

    FWIW, my daily 80 mile per day daily driver '99 Concorde has 170k miles
    on it and is running great. BTW - it has a timing chain, not belt,
    which is good, but, as with so many engines today, the water pump is
    integrated onto the cam drive system, and the engine is interference -
    that's not so good - but what are ya gonna do? I have not replaced the
    chain, tensioner, water pump or anything else internal. My philosophy
    right now is to watch for water leakage and keep going - if the water
    pump locks up, it's a risk at this point I'm willing to take. I reserve
    the right to panic and change my mind about this at any time and to go
    ahead and redo the front of the engine.

    About a uear ago, I retrofitted one of the later factory changes - an
    improved PCV hose (steals heat from the cooling system to prevent the
    hose from clogging with blowby condensates). Other than that, bone
    stock with all original parts.

    Since buying it used with 58k on it, I have used Castrol dino oil with 8
    oz. of Marvel Mystery Oil in it at all times. Because the MMO is on the
    thin side, I blend 10W-30 and 20W-50 - 2-to-3 in the summer, 3-to-2 in
    the winter. That ough to be giving me the equivalent of around a 10W-30
    in winter and 15W-40 in summer - just a guess. I don't go quite as thin
    as some mfgr.'s recommendations on oil - much of that has more to do
    with legally validating CAFE numbers than with engine longevity.

    I attribute my problem free experience with the 2.7 with two things
    (besides regular oil changes - 3500 ±500 mile intervals and filter gets
    changed every time): (1) The lack of short-trip stop-and-go driving 80
    mile daily commute, and (2) The MMO to clean it out initially when
    purchased and as a preventative. Others use synthetic, but it's not the
    panacia that many believe, especially if switched over to later in
    engine life - IMO...

    Bill Putney
    (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
    address with the letter 'x')
     
    Bill Putney, Nov 6, 2006
    #5
  6. Morgans

    Some O Guest

    Chuckle!
    That lady has normal styling taste.
     
    Some O, Nov 6, 2006
    #6
  7. Morgans

    Some O Guest

    My wife's 2001 V6 2.7L Sebring is very internally clean and running very
    well.
    Only about 30k miles of mostly city driving, with the occasional 1,000
    mile HWY trip.
    A few weeks ago while having it serviced I asked the service rep about
    the 2.7L sludge problem. He said people using 10W30 instead of the
    specified 5W30 have had problems.
     
    Some O, Nov 6, 2006
    #7
  8. Morgans

    Bill Putney Guest

    Nah! B.S.

    Bill Putney
    (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
    address with the letter 'x')
     
    Bill Putney, Nov 7, 2006
    #8
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