Transmission problem - prep before seeing mechanic

I'm beginning to have an issue with my transmission and would like to
educate myself before I head to the shop.

Vehicle:
1999 Grand Voyager LE 3.3L not sure of the transmision, I think it is
3 speed

Symtom:
Get in car in the morning, drive normally one block to fiorst stop
sign, then seems to not be in drive and can't move forward, put in
reverse and no change, keep switching from R to D until finally car
will move, then no further difficulty the rest of the day.

History:
The solenoid group was replaced Dec 2007, ATF+4 put in. The shop where
I had this work done is no longer in business FWIW.

Fluid level appears to be OK.

What should I believe from a mechanic?


John Keith

 

how exactly did you check the fluid level? read the dipstick to be sure but
most likely it will say check hot, idling in park.

 

Good question. I know the engine was off. I'll check again tomorrow
when the sun is out.


John Keith

 

i ask because it sounds like it was low and needed to refill the pan or
something. let it run a while and get to operating temp first.

 

He said the engine was off. Think that might be a clue?

 

If you have the three-speed, there probably is not much to check
before you take it in, except to check the fluid as suggested. The
fact that you mention a solenoid replacement leads me to believe it is
a four-speed.

If it is the 4 speed, the shop can connect a scan tool and dump any
stored codes. This is how I found out the problems that mine had. It
was a tool made by Sun (not Microsystems). It seem like he drilled
down into several menus to get all the bad news.

KM

 

also when you go to check it, smell it for a burnt smell. check to see if
its shows some small amounts of fine particles in it as well ( most likely
just clutch material), or does it look like lots of fine metal in it?

also is the check engine light on? if the trans is full and all looks good,
it wouldn't hurt to have it scanned for trans codes, as there may be some
historical codes from a previous occurrence even with no check engine
light, but first lets make sure its full. you say it was worked on back in
07. I'm wondering if they might not have sealed the pan correctly and
you've been slowly seeping some trans fluid to the point your low now, or
maybe a small leak at a seal.

it could also be a worn piston not sealing properly until it gets warmed up
enough to expand but you don't see that much in both forward and
reverse......although it is possible. and in that situation ( in a perfect
world) it would set a check engine light and set some current codes in the
computer.

by the way.how many miles on this machine?

 

The transverse 3.3/3.8 (same block, different bore and stroke) will only
mate to 1 transmission and that is the A604/41TE (name change) full
electronic 4 speed. There are no others that will bolt up.

 

So, if he does have a 'three speed', that's probably the trouble!

 

I have never, EVER been able to 'read' an AT dipstick!
I usually avoid the problem by getting a 5-speed M/T...

Then I fill it up, check, and now we're WAY over full, but most cars have
a 'vent' on the AT, so I drive for 50 miles with a 'cloaking' plume behind
the car! ;p

It usually vents ATF directly on the catalytic converter...

 

A 'trans service' on these is REALLY easy, but would be easier if Chrysler
were like Toyota and put a drain plug in the pan...

If you can spin a wrench, you can do a drain and fill on this tranny.

The pan is at the front driver's side of the engine, with something like
18 10mm bolts holding it in. What I do is remove the bolts from the pan at
the rear side first, and then loosen the rest. ATF will come out from the
back of the pan, have something about the size of your cat's liiter pan to
catch it. Loosen/remove more bolts until more trans fluid comes out, then
more and then just remove the pan and pour the remainder into the catch
basin. You can see the filter right there, a good tug removes it from the
transmission. Take the new one you bought at AutoZone for ~$18, snap it in
place, put the new gasket that came with it on the pan (I put the gasket
on the pan and then put the bolts in place, the gasket will hold them in
place) and then bolt the pan back on to the tranny. I finger-tighten the
four corners to hold it in place, then finger tighten the rest (or use a
10mm socket with an extension; this can actually be harder because by now
you have tranny fliud on your latex gloves and it's SLIPPERY!). Get the
bolts finger tight and then tighten them criss-cross going around the pan.

Take an empty gallon container and pour the fluid into it. When you get to
a gallon you know you need four quarts; get another gallon container and
it should fill it halfway, for 6 quarts total. Tighten the pan (just in
case you didn't) and pour 6 quarts of either a quality ATF+4 or genuine
MOPAR ATF+4. Did I mention to use ATF+4? If not, make sure you get some
ATF+4. Are you getting the message that you want to use ATF+4? BTW, Use
AFT+4. NOTHING BUT ATF+4!!!! And a funnel with a long filler neck that
will fit into the tube where the dipstick is. Pour in the proper amount of
ATF+4 and then start the engine and set the e-brake and put the trans in
N. Run it until the engine gets to operating temp, then run the shifter
from N to 3 to N to R a couple times. Er, keep your foot on the brake...

Put the shifter back into N and check the fluid. Wipe the stick, put it
back in, pull it and wipe it again, and then replace it for a minute or
two. Then pull it and have a look. The level by now should be at FULL/HOT.
If it isn't even up to FULL/COLD, add another quart and repeat the shift
lever movement. Check it again. If it is at least to FULL/COLD, go for a
short ride, 4-5 miles, come back, set the brake, put it in N and check it
agian. By now it should read FULL/HOT, if not, add more.

Did I mention to use ATF+4? If it is now full, go for a ride again. I
would then park it, let it cool, and then go for another ride. If your
problem is fixed, YAY!! If not, sux to be you...

Even if it didn't solve the problem, you might want to repeat the
procedure for draining, because if anyone ever used anything but ATF+4
you're going to have trouble. You might have to do it three or four times
(I think Chrysler recommends 4) to remove any 'contaminant' (ie, anything
but ATF+4) from the transmission.

You can take it somewhere and have it 'flushed', and I would say, "DON'T!!!"
I called a place we used to do business with to get my LHS trans fluid
replaced, and he said, "We use a generic ATF and add the proper modifiers".
Err....um...thanks. Then I did it myself using the above method. But I used ATF+3
(ATF+4 wasn't out yet...)

ATF+4 is compatible with ATF+3, so if it has ATF+3 you can add ATF+4
without worry.

Another thing you can have done to this is to take it to a Chrysler dealer
and have the transmission 'flashed', or reprogrammed. It should have been
done by now, but one never knows. Usually a dealer will put a sticker that
reads, IIRC, "Software Update V.XXX Perormed" somewhere on the hood or the
front piece under the hood. If there is no such sticker it probably needs
to be reprogrammed as well.

Good Luck!

 

138.8K.

It appears low fluid was the immediate problem.


John Keith

 

The receipt from the 2007 repair had the following note:

1 31A-100 SOLENOID GROUP A604


John Keith

 

Daniel correctly identified the transmission as a 4 speed. My
assumption of it being a 3 speed was based solely on the markings on
the dash:

P R N D 3 L

Would I be correct to note the 4th speed is probably an overdrive?


John Keith

 

Yes.

 

Yes 4th gear is an overdrive (3rd is direct), torque converter lockup is
possible in 3rd and 4th, and 2nd/reverse are hard coded into the valve body
so if you remove the EATX fuse you will only have 2nd and reverse. "limp
home" or "crawl home" mode is in reality just the electronic equivalent of
the TCM saying "I give up", throwing up its arms, and removing all power
from the solenoid pack which causes the trans to revert back to hard coded
mode.

My vehicle: White '95 Grand Caravan SE 3.3L 2wd, ~223,000-~233,000 miles.
Previous vehicle: Burgundy '92 Dynasty 3.3 w/ vinyl roof over rear
windshield ~180,000-252,736 miles (spun rod bearing due in part to sister
running it out of oil.)

 

Exactly. Someone has studied the schematics.

 

glad to hear it. now the question you'll want tackle is, what caused it to
be low? a small leak somewhere?