Transmission Flush and Shell Multi-Vehicle ATF

A local transmission shop (Coleman Taylor) offers what appears to me
to be a good service at a good price. For $80.00 they will pull the
pan, replace the filter, clean the magnet and flush the system. They
use Shell Multi-Vehicle ATF. The spec sheet is at:
http://www.shell-lubricants.com/products/pdf/FormulaShellMulti-Vehicl...

They say all but about a 1/2 quart is replaced with the flush. The
fluid in the torque converter, the cooler, etc. is replaced. Thus,
most of the 9.2 quarts in the system is replaced. They use a
RobinAir
transmission flush machine.


I can pull the pan and replace the filter myself and use Mopar ATF+4
Type 9602, but I think only 4 to 5 quarts of fluid will come out.
Thus, I would be leaving at least 4 quarts of old fluid.


The Chyrsler dealear uses an OG machine. They will flush the system,
but never pull the pan nor replace the filter nor clean the magnet.
They will use Mopar ATF+4 Type 9602. They charge $189.95.


Shell of course also owns Quaker State, Pennzoil, Rotella and Jiffy
Lube. I am fairly sure Shell makes the Mopar ATF+4 for Chysler and
have agreed not to market a product with the ATF+4 label as part of
the deal. (Valvoline will maket an ATF+4 as I guess they don't have
a
deal that prevents them from doing so).


If Shell does make the Mopar ATF+4, that does not mean their Multi-
Vehicle ATF is made to the same specs.


Is Shell Mult-Vehicle ATF really suitable?


I sure like the transmission shop price and the filter replacement.
They charge 15.00 for the filter or will let me provide the filter.
Any suggestions for the filter? Wix, NAPA ?

 

That's bad info. I got a flier from the local NAPA showing the Shell
ATF+4 is on sale ((under $3/qt.). Hmmm - that remionds me - I need to
pick some up - sale runs thru February.

Why chance it? I won't.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

 

all you have to do is disconnect the fluid line at the trans cooler and
idle the engine in park, while pouring in the fluid at the same rate that
the transmission is pumping it out. The process is documented here:

http://www.allpar.com/eek/atf.html

no flush machine required.

flush machines are rediculous for transmissions. How does the oil get
dirty? There's no combustion inside the transmission. The only thing that
happens is the fluid over time changes lubrication properties as it gets
worn out.

there is no such thing as multi-vehicle ATF. Dexron. Type F, and ATF +4
all have different characteristics. You can't make a fluid that does
everything
for everyone.

The filters I've seen all seem to be the same.

Ted

 

Thanks Bill and Ted.

Bill I agree with you, however what I want is Mopar ATF+4, a complete
flush, a new filter and a reasonable price. The local Chrysler
dealer, the local transmission shops and maintenance shops don't want
to deliver this service. The either want to use a Multi-Vehicle ATF
so they don't have to stock multiple types of ATF or they don't want
to pull the pan and replace the filter so they can make money
quickly. If I have to pay someone to replace the filter and then pay
the Chrysler dealer for the flush, it will be almost $250.00 for
routine maintenance on a transmission that can be overhauled for
$1600.00 to $2000.00. This is not cost effective maintenance.

Thanks Ted, I like the procedure describe in the link which is copied
below.

I have a 2001 Chrysler Sebring Convertible with a 2.7L engine with
the 4-speed automatic transmission.

Questions: Will I have to put the car in drive to compete the flush
or will the fluid flush with it in park?

I am not that good a mechanic, definitely an amateur, but the
procedure seems well within my capabilities. Ted points out in the
info below how fast the fluid will drain.

Can I damage the transmission by adding fluid too slowly or
overfilling it?

I will of course make sure it is not overfilled when I am completely
finished by sucking any overfill out the filler tube.


Note to reader: James Bottger refers to a post that describes how to
change the filter and add 4 to 5 quarts of fluid.

Per Ted's link:

James Bottger wrote:
While it's much better for the transmission to change the fluid using
the method in [the above] article than it is not to change the fluid
at all, this method only replaces about half of the fluid in the
transmission. The best thing to do is to change out ALL of the fluid,
and this is also something a person can do themselves.
First, drain the fluid from the pan, just like you would using Mr.
Macfairlane's procedure. Once you've replaced the filter, the pan
gasket, and reinstalled the pan, you're ready for the next step.
Fill the transmission to the proper level using the proper type of
transmission fluid. Then disconnect the return transmission line (the
line in which transmission fluid flows from the transmission cooler
back to the transmission), located near the bottom of the radiator.
There's two transmission lines connected in this location, and the
bottom line is usually the return line. Once the line has been
disconnected, attach a clear piece of tubing to the transmission
cooler, the same diameter as the transmission line, approximately 5-6
feet long, using the transmission line clamp to secure it.
Place the unattached end of the clear tube in a plastic, one gallon
milk container and place it where it can be seen (like not under the
car).
For the next portion of the procedure, make sure that the parking
brake is set prior to continuing. Start the engine. The transmission
needs to be put into "Drive" so the torque converter fluid is changed
as well. Some transmissions will only circulate fluid through the
torque converter only in drive. This especially applies to the
electronically controlled transmissions. [Craig Sherman noted that
Drive is needed for most transmissions, based on technical manuals]
After approximately 4 to 5 quarts (obviously, if it's more than 4
quarts, you'll have to turn of the engine, and fetch another milk jug)
of fluid have been pumped out, you should notice a change in the color
of the fluid. It should go from a brownish red color, to a bright
pinkish red color. When this happens, all of the old fluid has been
replaced with new fluid.
Be careful not to overfill the tranny during this procedure.
When completed, reconnect the transmission return line to the
transmission cooler. Check the fluid level as you normally would, and
add fluid as required.
This fluid change method is twice as good for your transmission as the
method of only changing out half of the fluid is. Happy shifting!
by Ted Mittelstaedt
Today I flushed my A604/41TE Ultradrive transmission in my 95 Chrysler
Town & Country. I followed the general idea that James Bottger
outlined. I started with a case (12 quarts) of Valvoline ATF +3 and a
transmission filter kit. This kit contained the filter and a new pan
gasket. The fluid replaced from the pan itself was 4 quarts, and I
flushed the rest of the case through the dipstick while the
transmission was pumping the old fluid out the transmission return
line. Total cost of the fluid and kit was about $45. The flushing
process from start to finish including road testing took 3 hours.
There were a couple things I noticed. First, there's an O ring that
comes with the new pan filter - make sure this is on the filter when
you install it. Also when installing the new filter, it takes quite a
firm push to get the filter snapped in.
Next, I disconnected the return line at the transmission itself, not
the radiator. This gave me existing rubber lines to use so I didn't
have to muck with plastic tubing.
Edited by Mark M. Hicks : Ted and another reader discuss how the
cooler lines should be hooked up.
Two more pieces of advice. First, the speed at which the tranny pumps
out fluid is very rapid, probably a quart every 10-15 seconds. Use a
funnel that has a neck that is almost as wide as the dipstick - you're
going to be dumping fluid in there as fast as it will pour out of the
quart bottles.
Lastly, KEEP TRACK OF YOUR FLUID VOLUMES! What I did is I vented the
old fluid into plastic oil pans. I used a milk jug and repeatedly
filled it with water and emptied it into the plastic oil pans then
used white paint to make gallon marks on the inside of the oil pans
where the water level was. (obviously I then dumped the water out)
This way when the tranny was in Neutral and idling and fluid was
pouring out of the output line into the plastic pan, I could easily
look down through the engine compartment and see the paint marks on
the pan and get a idea as to how fast I needed to dump the new fluid
into the dipstick.

 

Needed to get the old oil out.