town and country ignition switch failure

Our 2001 T&C (71k miles) just had its ignition switch fail with $280 worth of
replacement and refitting the new tumbler to our keys.

How common is this problem?

Last month the a/c evaporator went, no sign of external damage. That cost $750.
I'm beginning to think we have a problem car.

location is in Durham NC

 

If these are the only 2 problems on a car with 71k miles, I don't
think you are doing too badly. Check the Toyota newsgroup and read
about problems on that super reliable make for a reality check. The
new freon replacement turned out to me more corrosive than
manufacturers planned on and the result was evaporator failure.

 

Are these the only two problems you have had? If they are, I wouldn't
say you have a problem car. $1,000 in repairs over 71,000 miles isn't
all that outrageous. I had a LOT more than that with my 84 Honda
Accord. The engine failure alone cost $600 and that was just one of
many problems.

Obviously, we'd all like zero problems in 200,000 miles, but we're not
there yet.


Matt

 

Welcome to the world of modern auto repair. It's called labor costs and
complexity. It never ceases to amaze me how, not too many years ago, if a car
repair cost $75, that was considered *major*. Nowadays, people think nothing of
dropping several hundred dollars on routine maintenance, much less an actaul failed
part replacement. Also why I do as much of my own repairs and dread the day when I
won't be able to do my own oil changes. Unfortunately, some repairs require tools,
equimment, and skills that are beyond the typical DIY'er, much less those owners
who can't or won't do simple stuff, so the price of those repairs will be
exhorbitant just because they can be without much recourse on the part of the
consumer.

I think I just identified myself as officially as an old f*rt. 8^)

You just have to factor the unexpected into vehicle maintenance - part of the "cost
of doing business/living".

Bill Putney
(to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with
"x")

 

Since taking ownership of my Jeep, I have continually had to put gas in it.
Somebody told me that there is a tube that leads to the engine compartment
that is known for leaking gas out of the vehicle. Is there a way to stop
this from happening? Do I have a problem vehicle? I have looked for TSB's
re. this problem but have found nothing so far.. the only other problem is a
vibration when I turn the key in the ignition.. it gets worse if I press one
of the pedals in the footwell.. Is it really true that all mechanical parts
eventually wear out? Is it possible that sometimes faulty parts get used in
the construction of a new vehicle? I was told that my tires were good for
100,000 miles but after numerous 'grand prix' starts (nobody beats me from a
standing start at traffic lights), bumping up over the sidewalk when
parking, and only 3000 miles later, my tires are looking decidedly worn..
Should I take my '94 JGC back to the dealer and demand that they give me a
vehicle that never breaks down, that never uses gas or rubber?.. Should I
stop typing now as I am finding it difficult to think of other inane
statements to make?..

Automobiles have improved greatly over the years, but they still use
mechanical parts.. and as long as they do, wear will always be a problem..
parts used in construction are tested but occasionally a rogue part will get
through, and sometimes a parts manufaturer will change spec without
informing the final assembler.. the day that we have mechanical parts that
never wear out and work in perfect unison with parts around them is the day
that we say 'Beam me to Freemantle (Western Australia)' and within
milliseconds, I am sitting in a bar overlooking the Snake River with a cold
beer in one hand.. even with that technology, Capts Kirk (good 60's all
American haircut)/Picard (hair almost entirely removed so that we recognize
him as being all American but with French roots)/Janeway (the one that has a
hairstyle not unlike Katherine Hepburn) often have problems with faulty
shields and warp cores.. lol

 

About the post copied below: I can appreciate an attempt at humor (is that what
it was?) but My query has some basis in fact. Chrysler has already extended the
warrantee on the a//c compressor on these cars because of lubercation failures,
there's at least one other thread on this newsgroup concerning ignition tumbler
failures, and I want to know how common are the problems I'm having.

I can appreciate and respect most of the feedback I've gotten -- your note
didn't contribute anything.

Well, maybe you enjoyed writing it.

Do you know the term usewd to describe the third time derivative of
displacement?

It fits.

 

If you read through reviews contained within a variety of websites, you will
be left wondering what car is really reliable.. most would put the average
guy off buying anything at all!!!!!.. I have a '94 Jeep Grand Cherokee.. the
reviews are not always 'nice' about them, but I have to say that I have not
had the problems of many of the reviewers.. it has performed flawlessly for
years.. but one thing that I do accept is that things can and do go wrong..
it is unfortunate that you have had two relatively costly repairs.. I don't
like it any more than you do, but to suggest that you have a problem
car?!!!!!!!.. at 71K miles, it is probably coming up for three years old..
some people don't have a car for 6 months or 6K miles before they have major
problems.. these same people have seen truth in the adage 'guaranteed for
100K miles or the end of the forecourt, whichever comes first'..

 

Our other car experiences are what's making us wonder about this Town and
Country. We changed a 95 Quest at 165000 mostly trouble free miles for the T&C.
The '90 Lexus 250 is still going strong at 123000 miles, and it's been fairly
trouble free too (except showing a bit of rust now). That year Lexus seemed to
have an early tire problem, and we got after 4 years ownership a $200 check to
help defray tire replacement costs -- that was without complaining.

So having things like ignition key cylinder failures has us concerned.

 

Why didn't you buy another Quest?


Matt

 

hat's making us wonder about this Town and

WHen we bought the T&C Quest was in the process of introducing a new model --
my experience with new models is that they take a little time to shake down
their problems. I'd never buy a car the first year of a substantially new
design.

The next one may be a Quest, though, if they've demonstrated themselves to be
reliable in the currect design iteration.

 

Japanese cars still have better reliability records than US cars even
though US cars have improved significantly. On the other hand you pay
more up front for the import. In my case I have a 2001 Avalon and a
99 300M. The Avalon from Toyota has no problems that required repairs
but it is a rattle box and many features are poorly designed (things
that you could not figure out at the show room or during a test
drive). Meanwhile the Chrysler 300M had power window problems but
overall is a much better car and both my wife and I prefer it over the
Avalon.

 

The new Quest is butt ugly, especially inside. I just bought a 2003 GC.
I looked at Odysseys and others, but they were $5-8,000 more than the
Grand Caravan with similar equipment. Takes a lot of repairs to
overcome that difference. If you spend $1,000 every 71,000 miles, this
means that you'd have to drive over 350,000 miles to break even with a
Quest, and that assumes that the Quest requires NO repairs during that
time. I think people need to look at value as well as repair requirements.


Matt

 

And fails to consider the time value of money which makes the difference in
cost even greater.

 

That's true, although the higher resale value of the Japanese vans does
help offset a fair bit, unless you keep your vehicles as long as I do in
which case none of them are worth anything!

Matt