Replacing rear brake lines - rusted thru

help. I can get a wrench on the brake line fittings at the ABS until I
remove the ABS bracket around it. But, I can't see how that bracket is
bolts up.
Can anyone explain how this bracket comes off?
thank you in advance for your help.

 

help. I can get a wrench on the brake line fittings at the ABS until I

You might want to consider adding a little info.

 

You probably shouldn't be messing around with the brakes on that
thing.

 

First, Thank you for the come back.
My van is a 1997 Plymouth Voyager with over 120,000 miles.
Mechanically, it has been very reliable. Externally, its appearance is
not good... has been beaten up... door dents by other cars doors and
bumpers... but no rust. So, I'm at the cross road of junking it or
fixing the brake problem.

One day the brake pedal went right to the floor but slowly.
Fortunately, this happened in the driveway. After a careful look, it
turned out the brake line rusted thru where a piece of flex line (about
4-5 inches) is pressed on. My guess it was designed this way to absorb
the vibrations of the ABS.

line section. In other words, the complete line (from the ABS to the
rear axle) needs to be replaced.

I can't afford the dealer's estimate. So, I want to do it myself.

The problem is to determine if I can do this myself. If I can remove
the bracket that surrounds around the ABS, I can get at the fittings to
replace the brake line. But, I can't see how this bracket comes off.

 

The fuel tank has to be lowered to install this line. The line goes from the
hydraulic assembly to the rear axle. You buy the complete line. Then you
will need to have a scan tool connected to bleed the hydraulic system.
Im just curious, was this vehicle ever undercoated or rust proofed?

Glenn Beasley
Chrysler Tech

 

No undercoat... original from the factory.
Glenn, I had the same curiousity. Here's my guess - since the flex
line metal and the steel line metal were different, osmosis occurred
when the lines were wet. Over time then, it weaken, i.e. rusted, the
area where the two are pressed on together. The rest of the steel line
looks good... no rust.
Question 1. What is the scan tool you mentioned. Can I buy it at the
auto supply store and how much do you think it will cost?
Question 2. Is there something else I have to remove in order to remove
the ABS bracket?

TIA, George

 

I have no idea what bracket you are referring to, the line unscrews from
the hydraulic system. and at the back of the vehicle. The scan tool we use
cost about $2400.00. It is needed to bleed the hydraulic system by
actuating the valves and pump at the same time, without doing this your
pedal would go to the floor.
It has been awhile since I had done one of these but the ones that I did
do were rusted out because the aftermarket rust/soundproofing trapped the
water at the flex part of the line and rusted it out. There are 2 lines
next to each other, you may want to have both of them replaced if signs of
rust are on the other one.
Just a thought

Glenn

 

Glenn, after thinking about what you say, I'm gonna get estimates from
shops and dealer. What do you feel is a good estimate?

 

Rough est. about 3.0 labor

 

Thanks to all for your feedback.
George - wishing you a happy new year!