replacing ignition

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by scott, Jul 25, 2004.

  1. scott

    scott Guest

    I'm trying to replace my ignition switch. (Sometimes the car won't start
    at all--problem is solved by wiggling the key.)
    I've got steering column wrapper apart and the top piece off (maybe that
    wasn't necessary...), and I removed the column adjustment handle. But
    between the steering wheel, the igntion switch, and the dashboard, the
    bottom piece won't come off.
    Anybody know the trick?
     
    scott, Jul 25, 2004
    #1
  2. scott

    Bill Putney Guest

    It might help for us to know the make/model/year! 8^)

    Short of that, there often are screws (typically 2) that you access from
    underneath in recessed holes - you would have to turn yourself upside
    down under the steering column to see to remove them - might be
    phillips, might be torx. If there's a tilt wheel release lever, you
    might have to remove that too (again - typically 2 screws, accessed from
    the side).

    Short of your posting the vehicle description so someone here familiar
    with it can give a specific answer to your question, pay www.alldata.com
    $25 for a year's subscription to the FSM data (and full TSB access as a
    bonus) that will come in handy for this particular job as well as future
    stuff since it's obvious you are operating at some level of DIY'ing.

    Bill Putney
    (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
    address with "x")
     
    Bill Putney, Jul 25, 2004
    #2
  3. scott

    scott Guest

    I have a '96 Concorde LX 3.3. I've already removed 5 torx screws to loosen
    the two plastic pieces that cover the steering column (one for the top, one
    for the bottom, and I took off the steering wheel height-adjustment handle.
    I've detached the plastic shield pieces, but I can't get the bottom piece out
    of the way because it's wedged in, and that's the piece I need to remove
    because it covers up the ignition switch.
    Thanks.
     
    scott, Jul 25, 2004
    #3
  4. scott

    Bill Putney Guest

    OK - The wedging is due to the steering wheel being tilted more down
    than up. The step before removing the tilt lever is to tilt your
    steering wheel all the way up, *then* remove the tilt lever.

    All you need to do at this point is re-attach the tilt lever, tilt the
    wheel up, then remove the tilt lever. That won't take but a minute.

    Bill Putney
    (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
    address with "x")
     
    Bill Putney, Jul 25, 2004
    #4
  5. scott

    scott Guest

    Thanks, I appreciate your advice.
    I did raise the steering wheel all the way up before starting any of this.
    Also, I found that I can still adjust the tilt by pulling on the plate to which
    the adjustment lever attaches. This lets me tilt up the column a teeny bit more
    than the highest rest point.
    But I still can't get the housing off.
     
    scott, Jul 25, 2004
    #5
  6. scott

    Bill Putney Guest

    Hmmm - unless someone who is familiar with that specific vehicle comes
    on, you may have to bite the bullet and do the AllData thing, with the
    risk that the FSM did a little hand-waiving on the instructions and
    doesn't tell you any more than you already know.

    How much interference is there? Any chance you can force it without
    breaking it?

    So it's wedged between the steering wheel and what? Any possibility of
    removing whatever is on the underside that's binding it up (lower dash
    trim pieces maybe)?

    Bill Putney
    (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
    address with "x")
     
    Bill Putney, Jul 25, 2004
    #6
  7. scott

    Bill Putney Guest

    Should have said "...between the steering column and what?".

    Bill Putney
    (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
    address with "x")
     
    Bill Putney, Jul 25, 2004
    #7
  8. scott

    Guest Guest

    Make sure there isn't a 3rd screw underneath right in the center in a deep
    recess.
    If all else fails go buy a Hayes service manual for your specific vehicle -
    typically $7 - $15.
    They are certainly nothing like a factory service manual but you can do most
    repairs using one.
     
    Guest, Jul 29, 2004
    #8
  9. scott

    ncs Guest

    just curious -- was your problem of the engine cranking over but not
    starting or just not cranking at all. The past month or so, a problem
    started with mine where you would turn the key and it would crank but not
    start. I would turn it off and try again and then it would start. Doesn't
    happen 100% of the time. When my fuel pump went out I thought this might
    have caused it, not getting fuel all the time, but it's even happening after
    I had the fuel pump replaced.

    thanks,
    Nick
     
    ncs, Aug 17, 2004
    #9
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