replacing brake lines

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by Steve, Jan 20, 2005.

  1. Steve

    Steve Guest

    I just helped a friend replace her right rear brake steel brake line on her
    93 caravan. I tried to get a factory piece from chrysler but they said that
    I have to bend the lines.

    So instead of paying the dealership big money for their brake lines I just
    went to the local auto supply store and picked up a 3/16 thread double
    flared 30" steel line and installed it.

    My question is: The line that i bent doesn't bend exactly like the line I
    took out but does follow the same general path. I made sure I bent the
    lines in a gentle curving fashion and there aren't any kinks. How do I know
    that these lines are reliable as the factory ones? My bends are far from
    being perfect but I think they will do the job. There was a clip holding
    the old line to the axle but I didn't re-install it on the new line b/c I
    figured that the steel clip will rub on the steel line thus eventually
    puncturing the line. The factory line had the clip b/c the old line also
    had a spring like winding around it to protect it.

    Also the replacement line has the screw fittings on each end but the two are
    different lengths of threads. I screwed the longer threads into the rubber
    line for the rear brakes (it didn't really screw in a whole lot but I didn't
    see any leaks and the threads were screwed all the way in) and the shorter
    threaded end into the wheel cylinder. In both instances when the screw in
    fittings were completed tightened there were threads still exposed on both
    ends of the line.

    From what i've said does it sound like I installed these lines correctly?
    The brakes work just fine and I didn't see any leaks and i even stomped on
    the brake pedal to make sure it didn't sink to the floor.

    I don't want my friend to crash her van b/c I made some mistake along the
    way...

    thanks
     
    Steve, Jan 20, 2005
    #1
  2. Steve

    Brent P Guest

    So long as it doesn't hit anything and nothing hits it, it will be fine.
    I usually paint the brake lines I make and I'll use some vacume hose in
    place of the factory springs in the critical spots. Been doing it that
    way for years and never had a problem because of it.
    I've bought lines like that, doesn't matter unless one of ends it
    goes into is particularly deep. My guess is there are some cars out there
    that need the longer threaded fitting in some spots.
    Sounds fine.
    After bleeding I assume.
     
    Brent P, Jan 20, 2005
    #2
  3. Right. Pre-formed lines are not supplied.
    Right, but it sounds like you left off the armor coil on the outside of
    the line.
    It's best to secure the line. If you don't feel you can use the steel
    clip, use Tie-wraps or something. And yeah, you really do need the armor
    coiling.
    That's fine.
     
    Daniel J. Stern, Jan 20, 2005
    #3
  4. Steve

    Guest Guest


    And the armour coiled lines ARE available from the aftermarket. They
    bend nicer than the plain lines too. Roughly double the price, but
    they are still pretty cheap.
     
    Guest, Jan 21, 2005
    #4
  5. Steve

    clemslay Guest

    How does one add the armor coil?
    I would think that would take a lashing machine, or even torching.
    Do they sell the unformed lines with the armor coil?

    Thanks.
     
    clemslay, Jan 23, 2005
    #5
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