Replacing '96 LH Engine Cradle Front Bolts

I have an 85K mile, 11-year old, 1996 Eagle Vision TSI (LH Body) that is
still running pretty well. When underneath to change the oil, I noticed
that the nuts on the two front bolts holding the engine cradle to the
body/frame are severely rusted. (The two back bolts and nuts seem fine so
are not a concern.)

It appears that replacement is done by removing the front wheel and the
inner fender cover. There is a slot that would normally make it possible to
get a box end wrench on the nut and a socket with breaker bar on the bolt
head from below. I am a bit worried that the nut is so badly rusted that I
will not be able to get the wrench on it. I know the entire this is very
rusted since I live in the US "rust belt" and the car has seen 10 winters
with road salt, etc.

I have two questions:

1. Has anyone ever heard of a complete failure of the cradle bolt and nut
assembly. Given that there are just 4 of these bolts (open on each side
front and rear) and they support the full weight of the engine and
transmission, I worry about this as a possible safety issue. I wish these
had been made of stainless steel.

2. Has anyone replaced these and do they have any suggestions on removing
them? They are fairly large diameter bolts and access to the top nut area
is cramped, so I do not believe it would be possible to chisel off the nut
from the bolt. Also, the mounts are rubber, so heat too appears to be a bad
idea. Anyone with experience that can offer any thoughts?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Bob

 

I think what you are referring to is a bolt that runs up and thru the
cradle, thru the bushing and into the body. It is a bolt that does not go
into a nut. It screws into a flat nut inside the body. I live in a salt belt
also and replace these bushing all the time, if you soak them really good
and let the weight of the cradle on the bolt as you take it out makes it
easier. Do one at a time if you are only replacing the bottom bushings. I
think the cost of all 8 bushings is about $400.00

Glenn Beasley
Chrysler Tech

 

I think what you are referring to is a bolt that runs up and thru the
cradle, thru the bushing and into the body. It is a bolt that does not go
into a nut. It screws into a flat nut inside the body. I live in a salt belt
also and replace these bushing all the time, if you soak them really good
and let the weight of the cradle on the bolt as you take it out makes it
easier. Do one at a time if you are only replacing the bottom bushings. I
think the cost of all 8 bushings is about $400.00

Glenn Beasley
Chrysler Tech

 

Glenn,

Thanks for the info. I believe we are indeed talking about the same bolts.
There are 4 and they run vertically up from the bottom of the vehicle
through the bushings, then through the body and there is a nut securing the
bolt on the top. Based on what you have stated, the nut must be welded to
the body frame, which would help me in my case since I was wondering how I
was going to get a wrench on that nut through the small service slot in the
body wheel.

That all said, the rear two bolts, nuts, and bushings look very good for
their age. The front two bolts and bushings also look OK. The rubber is a
bit shrunken and hardened, but it is all still there. It's those welded
nuts up on top of the body on the front two bolts that need replacement
since they are very badly rusted. Based on the way they feel (hard to see
in there very well), I'd say that the sides on about the top 1/3 of both
nuts have rusted away completely.

Your reference to their being 8 bushings is probably because their are top
and bottom metal/rubber bushings for each of the 4 bolts. I do not believe
these need to be replaced and would like to avoid the $400 in parts if at
all possible given the age of the vehicle. Besides that, even if I do
replace all the bushings, it would not solve the problem of the welded
rusted top body nuts being the root issue here.

Have you ever seen this condition occur and if so is there a recommended
fix? When I thought that the nuts were separate from the body, I assumed I
could just replace the 2 front bolts and nuts. Given that this is welded to
the body and irregularly shaped on the top horizontal surface of the nut
(due to rust), could I use slightly longer bolts (with the same thread),
thread them through the rusty bolt welded to the body, then put a flat
washer over that and add another nut on top just in case the lower nut
finally gives way?

Given you live in the rust belt and have experience with this problem, I'd
be interested in your thoughts. Also, if I have misunderstood and the 8
bushings somehow come with new bolts and nuts, let me know that as well. I
really appreciate your taking the time to reply to me. Thanks again.

Bob

 

There's not exactly a nut, and there's nothing welded. It just is mounted in
something that holds it still if you're lucky. It performs like a caged nut
but it's not a nut. It's more of a sheet metal item. It can spin inside the
frame if it gets loose. It's not exactly easy to maintain if it screws up.

I just got through replacing the rubber mounts ($50 each x 8 - yippee!) but
had no concerns over the hardware except that one of the nuts might spin. I
was lucky.