Replaced radiator, now it wont start :(

Oops the 'h' on 'http://' got chopped off of that link.

Complete link to the schematic for the only low oil pressure sensor
(which does nothing but control the idiot light in the cluster) in the
2nd gen. LH vehicle:
http://images27.fotki.com/v972/photos/4/42816/143201/ncordeoilpressurewiringdiagram-vi.jpg

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

 

Just to add - I suppose it it possible that an engine could shut off
when its lifters totally collapse (if that happens before the bearings
get destoyed) - certainly power would be reduced as lifters lost their
oil supply. I can accept that as a possibility. But there is
absolutley no shut down wired into any low engine oil pressure sensor or
switch on this vehicle.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

 

I haven't followed this thread from the start, don't know what
make/model car it is.... but has ANYONE suggested the neutral/park
interlock switch wires might have been knocked loose? Seems an obvious
thing to check to me....

 

well I put it in neurtral and it rolls back and the engine wont even
try and click when that happens so I assume their in order.

 

The neutral interlock has NOTHING to do with the car shifting out of
park and to neutral. Its a switch that disables the starter whenever the
gear selector is in anything but neutral or park. If the wires get
knocked off, its the same as if the car were in "drive" or "reverse."
The starter won't operate.

 

Bill,

Excellent site. Great prices! In the past I've managed to simply replace
the contacts and wire brush the plunger. This has worked fine and I've
always sold the vehicles before they needed a second set, but at this price,
I agree it would be best to replace the plunger second time around!

I will file this site for future reference.

Bob

 

Glad to give you something to be excited about, Bob.

Seriously - I was happy when I found it too. Saves all the looking up
the various Denso starter applications and replacement contacts parts
that seems to be the norm for the various internet sources for the
contacts that people have provided links to in the past. And - yes -
about the best price I've seen for what you get.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

 

Hence the word 'should'. My point was that in no way would it prevent the
engine from cranking, which is totally true. The rest was a (wrong)
assumption based on other engines. I stand corrected on that point.

Better luck next time.

 

Exactly, but when I used to try and start the car when it was in drive
or neutral it wouldnt do anything, it still dosent, when its in park
it gives me the single click

 

Which is the wrong word because if it's not designed to do so, then it
not only shouldn't but wouldn't.

Well damn - when you state the facts and people keep ignoring them,
sometimes there's nowhere else to go.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

 

You're right - that proves that the neutral interlock is working.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

 

So are you bound and determined *NOT* to get the voltmeter out and
troubleshoot it, i.e., find out where the power gets interupted on the
way to the starter?

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

 

OK, divide and conquer.

Get a multimeter with alligator clips. Put it right on the starter bolt
that
feeds the high current power to the starter, then the frame of the car.
If you have a built in solenoid it should read 12v. If you have an external
solenoid, it might read 0 or 12v.

Try to start the car and watch the meter. What it does when it doesn't
start will help tell you where to look.

If it drops to a volt or so and the starter doesn't crank, it's PROBABLY
a battery/cable issue before where you're measuring. Start moving back
towards the battery. If you measure the voltage right on the battery post
and it drops and still doesn't start, it's gotta be something with the
battery.
As you move back toward the battery, if you suddenly see it STAY at
12v or at least stay somewhat high where previously it was diving to 0
you know you just passed the bad point.

If you have a solenoid in the starter, put the meter on the 'control' post
for
the solenoid. If you see it change when you try to start, chances are the
problem is internal. If it doesn't change, then it's a problem somewhere
else in the car like an interlock or even the key switch.

 

All right guys, heres what I did,

I didnt want to break out a multimeter for one good reason, I didnt
have one

Yesterday I bought a new negative cable, positive cable, fusable link
and battery....and a multimeter

I put all the goodies in and it still gives me a single click, I got
the meter out but right when I was about to test a huge downpour came
and has kept me from the car since.



ill post when I go at it with the MM

 

"AFX"

Multimeter - $ 10

Bunch of new parts - $100

Another day in the life of a fool - priceless.

- J

 

Oh, you didn't say you were getting a click.

Nippondenso solenoid contacts strike again. Replace the contacts in the
starter.

 

Alright I got under the car and put a multimeter to the starter. I
turned the car and it went from 15 to 17.0 and kind of stayed for a
bit.

What does this mean?

 

The numbers you've quoted below do not make much sense, at least to me since
nominal battery voltage should be between 12 and 14 volts DC.

Can you explain where you had the multi-meter leads attached? Also, which
jacks on the MM were you using and what range had you selected at the time
you saw these numbers?

What DC voltage do you read across the battery terminals before attempting
to start the vehicle and again during the period when the ignition key is
turned to start?

Bob

 

It means you don't know how to use a multimeter.

Steve B.

 

I agree with the others - something's not right there. You are not
using the meter right or the meter is defective.

AND - you have to know *where* on the starter you are putting the meter
lead. The hot lead from the battery goes to the input side of the
solenoid. That would always be "hot". *IF* the solenoid contacts are
bad, you need the meter lead on the ouput side of the solenoid/input
side of the starter motor which *should* b ground with ignition switch
off, and nominal 12 volts when igntion switch is in the "start"
position. If that last reading is significantly lower than 12 volts
(say, anywhere from 0 to 9 volts), then the contacts are bad like I've
been suggesting since my very first post in this thread.

To reiterate: You have to realize that the contact is a large relay that
passes the huge current from the battery to the starter. It's the
output of the solnoid contacts that you have to look at with the
ignition switch in the "start" position - *not* the hot wire from the
battery.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')