Replaced radiator, now it wont start :(

So the radiator got replaced, started up the car and it was running
fine, I went to check for tube leaks and found one with the trans.
fluid slowly dripping out, I fixed it and when I went to restart the
car it wont, just a single click. I checked the oil, its okay but it
still wont start, I'm currently taking the battery out to let the car
discharge for a bit before I start again..


any suggestions?

 

Hi...

A couple, if I may - though be forewarned that I'm no mechanic.

Put the battery back, try to start it again. If just a single click,
then turn on the dome lights, try to crank it again. Do the dome lights
remain unaffected, or do they dim noticeably, or do they go out completely?

If the courtesy lights remain unaffected, then did you happen to do the
same real dumb thing that I once did? Leave one of the many connections
to the battery off?

If you didn't, then disassemble and clean with a bit of sandpaper all
the connections at the battery.

On the other hand, if the dome lights go out completely, then charge the
battery.

Take care.

Ken

 

I reconnected the battery and the dome lights stayed on with barely
even a dim

 

If it's not a poor electrical connection as others have suggested, then
the starter solenoid contacts may be worn out. The Denso/Nippondenso
starters that Chrysler uses in a lot of its vehicles is known for this
problem after some age/wear (starter operation becomes intermittent due
to worn solenoid contacts).

If this is the problem, then it's just coincidence that it happened when
you replaced the radiator.

Here's a good source for new solenoid contacts and plunger:
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=VLP&MfrPartNumber=ND34SOL

$13 plus shipping.

I had to put a set in my '98 Concorde about a month ago - same car and
engine as yours.

(www.partsamerica is the parent company for regional parts stores
Advance, Schucks, Kragen, Checker, and Murray's. Be aware though that
the local stores don't stock and can't order this particular part (at
least not my local Advance store) - you have to order off the
partsamerica web site.)

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

 

Bill,

Thanks for the reply, do you really think it was such a coincidence
that the solenoid went out right when I fixed the one tube, it was
literally no more than 5 minutes later. I don't know exactly what
these things do so if this single click is usually suspect of a bad
solenoid then I trust ya

 

Well - definitely get a multimeter out and rule out any poor connections
in the power feed (look for voltage drop or loss with key in the start
position) before you assume it's the solenoid contacts. The starter is
a moderate PITA to get out. Cycle the key to "start" several times also
- usually the solenoid contacts will be intermittent, at least when the
problem first shows up. IOW - if you cycle the key several times, it
might decide to start about the 5th time.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

 

Yeah, I tried to start it about 15 times straight and it was a no go.
Could it be something with the transmission tube I messed with? Could
that be blocking something by the starter?

 

I tried jumping the battery but it was a no-go. I checked all the
electrical I could but I just dont understand why it would be doing
this. Im looking for my OBDII Reader to check for codes, I only had a
little oil in it because I was about to change it when the rad when
bad and a tiny bit leaked out the tube when I replaced the radiator. I
have since filled it and its all clean, do you think it could be a
precaution system not letting the car start? The car literally only
ran for like 15 seconds with the low oil.

 

There is no computer input for low oil. The oil pressure switch is a
dumb switch (contact closure) and controls the idiot light directly (no
computer knows if the light is on), and that's it. IOW - it would let
you run the engine with zero oil in it until the engine destroyed itself.

Tme for multimeter and schematics (of the power/starting system to
begine with).

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

 

Thats weird, about 5 years ago we had a leak in the oil pan and the
oil ran out, one day the engine just stopped and wouldnt start, when
we took it in he said it was a failsafe as to not ruin the engine.

 

Hi...

Having trouble accepting the coincidence of the starter solenoid
contacts going from good as new to nothing simultaneous with the work
the OP did, so...

Hoping that Winnipeg, Canada is too far away for either you or the OP
to come and punch me in the nose, I'd like to suggest once more that
he take a real good careful look at the battery positive (or extension
connection post) and make absolutely sure that he replaced all the
cables. Looking for a real thick stiff heavy cable; one that may have
fallen down out of sight. If you can't see it anywhere, try to trace
the heavy cable back from the starter, make sure it's there.

And if that's not it; this saga made a flashback for me. A gazillion
years ago, when I studied and worked both a full time and a part time
job - there were never ever enough dollars to buy a new solenoid or the
time to install it if there were. Had an old Olds, would start only
once in a while. Rest of the time, I had to make durn sure it was in
Park, parking brake on. Get down under the car with a screwdriver and
a small hammer. Use the screwdriver to connect battery to the solenoid
input (get the click) and then tap gently on the starter 'till she started.

Thinking that you said it wasn't fun to r+r the starter, maybe sorta
the same thing would work if the OP really wants to check. Safer and
easier - get a trusty friend to put 'er in park, hand brake on, foot
firmly on the service brake, and hold the key in the start position.
Then a few sharp raps on the starter with a hammer, or maybe a broom
stick (don't know where it is in his car) should confirm.

Take care.

Ken

 

Hi...

Houston, we have a problem.

Can't turn the starter 'till there's oil pressure, can't possibly
have any oil pressure 'till the engine's at least cranking...

Take care.

Ken

 

Can't turn the starter 'till there's oil pressure, can't possibly

No oil pressure should kill the fuel pump. She should still crank all day
long. Not that it's a good idea.

 

I agree - that's why I said "Well - definitely get a multimeter out and
rule out any poor connections in the power feed (look for voltage drop
or loss with key in the start position) before you assume it's the
solenoid contacts".

No I agree. This is why I have suggested twice to get a multimeter out.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

 

On this engine? There is no failsafe on this engine.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

 

Ken,

I've confirmed bad solenoid contacts using the hammer method (not with the
screwdriver though ... I have a partner in the vehicle turn the key to start
while I rap lightly on the starter and take car not to be anywhere near
anything that turns/moves under the vehicle) on many occasions!

I find Nippondenso starter contacts last us about 5-7 years and 50-80K
miles. I buy them now from a source on the Internet for pretty cheap and
have them here ready and waiting since I have 3 Chryslers and a Mitsubishi
that all use them!

Bob

 

Ken, Bill, Blackfoot,

Thanks for the flurry of replies, I really do appreciate you taking
time out of your night to help me


Ill try the starter trick tonight, I had an old Hyundai and I had to
get under with a hammer for a while to get it to start sometimes.


I just have one thing I cant get off my mind, if you can put it to
rest that would help.


The car started just fine when we first put the radiator in, I turned
it off for not all of 30 seconds to fix the transmission fluid hose
then it wouldn't start, is their anything I could have done to a
battery terminal or switch that I wouldn't have noticed? I tend to
have okay luck with cars when I work on em and hope that a starter
going bad (or solenoid) at the exact time I was fixing another part
would be improbable but Ive checked everything else I can think!


I let the battery charge for about 15 minutes and it still wont turn.
I have the day off tomorrow to sit in the 112 degree heat and work on
this thing


Again, if I see any of you in a bar, first rounds on me....I don't
drink much so Ill have a Dr. Pepper...

 

And ofcorse Bob..Cant forget Bob.

 

Hey Bob - look at
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=VLP&MfrPartNumber=ND34SOL
(the parent company of Advance, Kragen, Schucks, etc.)

$13 plus shipping. Same quality level as everyone else on the www as
far as I can tell. I out a set in one of my Concordes a couple of
months ago.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

 

Excuse me - but there is only one engine oil pressure sensor on this
vehicle, and it is the pressure switch for the idiot light on the
instrument cluster. It does nothing but control that light. Its output
does not go to any of the computers, and has no control whatsoever of
the fuel pump or the fuel pump relay.

LOW OIL PRESSURE WILL NOT SHUT THIS ENGINE DOWN.

Here is the schematic from the '98/'99 LH vehicle FSM of the one and
only engine oil pressure sensor (a switch) on this vehicle:
ttp://images27.fotki.com/v972/photos/4/42816/143201/ncordeoilpressurewiringdiagram-vi.jpg

I defy you and challenge anyone to present a schematic or a second
engine oil pressure sensing part of any kind on this vehicle. There is
no other on ANY 2nd gen LH car (probably 1st gen. too, but I don't know
for sure on that), and the schematic is correct in showing no connection
to anything other than the power from the fuse and the low oil pressure
indicator in the cluster - ABSOLUTELY NO CONNECTION TO ANYTHING THAT
WOULD SHUT IT DOWN FOR LOW ENGINE OIL PRESSURE.

Would everyone please quit saying that there is any sensor that will
shut this engine down for low oil pressure. If you disagree with that,
then put up or shut up: Present either an accurate (i.e., from Chrysler
FSM) schematic of the 2nd gen. LH car showing a second engine oil
pressure sensor and/or a part number for an engine oil pressure sensor
other than the low oil pressure light switch shown in the shcematic
linked above.

Not trying to be rude, but I find it necessary to be emphatic about this.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')