Problem With Power Outlet

You just proved my point about cherry-picking waht you want to take into
account (that means choosing to observe certain infirmation but ignore
other just as important to support your pre-made conclusion.

What's the info. that you are choosing to ignore? This that the OP also
posted (and I included it in my previous post that you just repsonded
to, so it's not like you had to look for it - you had to intentionally
disregard it):

Neil posted this:
**Rear Power Outlet (Engine On)
----------------------------------
**Outlet alone: 13.5
**With inverter alone: 13.4
**With charger alone in inverter: 13.3
**With laptop plugged in (off and charging): 12.0
**With laptop plugged in (on and charging): Inverter turned off

'splain that one.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

 

So you're going to pretend not to understand a technical subtlety and a
subtlety of language to belittle. You may be the only person who
doesn't understnad the meaning of what he said. You get it - you just
don't want to - and that's giving you the benefit of the doubt.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

 

Hey, Bill, it's confirmed!


Matt

 

(It would be "neither know*s*)

As long as it makes you feel good to say that, that's all that matters.
You have a lovely day too.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

 

That's kind of a natural by-product of having to counter a lot of
mis-information.

We will try to be more intertaining next time. You didn't enjoy the bit
about alternators being perpetual motion machines being able to create
regulated voltage at zero rpm? I thought that was entertaining.

But I see that you couldn't stop yourself either.

Agreed. You hit the nail on the head with the "deliberate ignorance"
(explicitly pointed out in a couple of my posts) description. And that,
as I pointed out, is why it became so unnecessarily huge.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

 

Actually, Dan, if he is testing the chassis or body ground, it WAS the
right way to do it - assuming the bright shiny spot was properly
grounded.

 

At this stage you don't need to. You are testing the chassis or body
ground. If it tests out OK, you need to test the socket ground - same
procedure, but with the socket under load voltmeter from socket shell
to clean chassis or body ground.

 

And "under load" will NOT give a zero reading if there is resistance
in the ground connection.

 

Which proves, Max, that you do NOT understand automotive electrical
troubleshooting.

 

TBone,
We are just trying to "prove" the shiny spot he is connecting to is
grounded. With the "circuit" under load, there will still be no load
between the actual chassis ground and this "shiny" ground, so no
voltage drop there. It will then be an acceptable refference to use
for checking voltage drop on the chassis ground connection.

 

OK, now we are getting SOMEWHERE, but that is to the ENGINE ground.
You need to do the same test to the CHASSIS ground. Use the ground
strap on the wiper motor, or even the steel brake line at the master
cyl as body ground, and either the engine ground or the battery
negative(preferred) and run the test again.

 

And I've told Neil, and the rest of you, how to do it himself, with
only the car and the VOM.

 

I know, I misread what the test was doing, my bad ;-)

--
If at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving

http://www.SecureIX.com ***

 

That is because you don't and just about every post you put in here proves
it

Already with the name calling... Shows the validity of your argument.

And if you understood .... oh, never mind... it is too far beyond you.


--
If at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving

 

And that is the whole point of the test Maxi, to make sure that they ARE
DIRECTLY CONNECTED. If they are then you would get the zero reading that
you expect but if not, then the voltage is going to be a little higher on
the body due to the resistance in the bad connection between the body and
the battery ground and the meter will show it. For all the years of
troubleshooting you claim to have, you really don't know shit.

 

Yea, and unlike you, I comprehend it as well.

That is dependent on the regulator and 13.8 will charge a battery just fine
without cooking it.

Really?!?!!? Lets look over this bullshit of yours again.

Here, the poster you replied to claimed the battery to be ok and in fact, it
is.

Now in your first word, you are claiming him to be incorrect (that the
battery is bad) and then justify your incorrect assessment by saying that
the voltage under charge should be over 14 volts. When you put your BS
together, it comes out as charging voltage under 14V indicates a bad
battery. Any way you try and spin it, this IS what you said. If it's not
what you meant, perhaps you should take a class in sentence structure and
beginning writing but I bet that will not be necessary as this IS what you
meant and are now denying it as it would make you WRONG.

Care to comprehend even what you write!!!

And completely correct, even if you are unable to understand it and with the
BS you said above, it's no wonder that you don't.

 

In this car (and others I've had), the battery is up high, and you access
the battery posts directly. So I guess I don't have these "jump posts."

What's an "LH car"?

 

Chrysler Concorde, 300M, Dodge Intrepid and the late Eagle Vision

 

Do you really not understand what is being said here or are just being a
stubborn idiot? What is being said is that if the battery is being pulled
down below 10.V with a miniscule load, then it wouldn't have enough power to
crank it much at all, never mind enough power to start a computer controlled
vehicle.

The load test was already done and confirmed the battery to still have over
600 CCA.

LOL, you are kidding, right. Do you really think that the circutry in some
plug in inverter is going to be more sensitive than the vehicles ECM.

Then you are an idiot. Most people will start at the plug and work
backwards from there.

You made it an either / or in your first post.

 

I would say that 1.5V drop with a 14 amp load at 12V to be a good definition
of much, what about you?

Then show it.