Oil filter fit question

I am researching various filters that fit the 3.3/3.8 and have learned so
far that there seem to be 4 different ones that have the correct threads and
gasket diameter for the block. Going by Wix numbers: 51085, 51515, 51775,
and 51773. My question is if the 51773 will fit without the end hitting
anything or hanging too low where road debris could hit it. Other than that
spun #1 rod bearings in 3 different 2.2 engines using fram filters for
regular oil and filter changes has made me avoid them like the plague.

 

What unique aspect of Fram filters caused the rod bearings to spin 3 times?

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

 

If you are willing to invest $10 in the future of your car, purchase a
new FRAM and a new WIX filter for the same application. Now, saw the
can off as near the base as possible. Tthe quality of the bypass
valve alone will cause you to never buy another Fram. Now, look at
the "end caps" on the filter itself. Fram-cardboard / Wix-steel.
Now unroll the actual filter material and compare how many Square
Inches of filtration you are getting? Amazing isn't it....

By the way, when that "bypass valve" pops open it floods the bearings
with all the grit and debris that has been building up in the
filter. Poof!

Another WIX number to consider is the 51452. It is actually
specified as a "severe service" filter to replace the 51085 on Dodge
Trucks. It has a thicker metal canister than the 51515, and I seem
to remember that the Microns of filtration are somewhat smaller as
well.

I and all of my buddies with Mopar products have been using the WIX
51515 for more than 15 years to replace the "shorty" 51085 and I
highly recommend it.

Good Luck, Bruce

 

Highcountry wrote:

It SHOULDN'T do that. When the bypass valve opens, it still keeps
positive pressure and flow through the filter as always, which should
keep built up debris pinned to the filter media. The bypass is direct
from input to output in parallel with the regular flow through the media
and shouldn't get any sort of "backwash" from the filter media
whatsoever. The only grit that will get passed through the bypass valve
is the grit in the oil CURRENTLY coming into the filter.

 

I'll never use Fram again, although I used to about 10yrs. ago. I've
heard and have had first hand experience on horror stories regarding
fram.. I recommend factory replacement..or WIX.

 

#1 may not have been entirely the fault of the filter, Friends installed a
new A413 transaxle in our 89 yellow Sundance when 3rd and reverse went out
but they didn't get the kickdown cable adjusted right so it would downshift
up the smallest of hills and not shift back up until we let completely off
the pedal. We told them and they took off down the highway with the car
floored which of course wouldn't allow it to upshift at any speed and they
spun the bearing. I'm not sure if they redlined it or what but it came back
knocking. Had the engine replaced by another friend.

#2 1 month after getting back from a road trip to Florida to pick up my
sister the head cracked from thermostat not opening until the temp gauge was
almost to overheating then the temp slammed back to cold as the coolant in
the radiator rushed to the hot block and head. A few months earlier my
sister backed into an iron I beam light pole and creased in the back of the
car so we decided to pull the engine and tranny among other parts and store
them as extras. Bought another 89 Sundance with a bad fuel pump this time
grey with what appeared to be an older engine as it had the square tooth
timing belt and the blanking plate where the mechanical fuel pump would
mount. Changed oil, filter, fuel pump, and fuel filter and drove it for a
few months then it spun yet another bearing.

#3 Replaced the head on the other block and put the engine and trans in the
grey Sundance. After test driving the car around to warm it up I looked
under it with it idling to check for leaks and the engine stopped. After
restarting it several times and having it idle for a few seconds and stop
each time I started it again and held the RPM at 2500 during which time it
bogged down a few times and was then that it started knocking. The oil was
still full and it didn't get contaminated when the head cracked because we
didn't try to drive it that way so it didn't get any coolant in the oil. I
guess hindsight really is 20/20 because had I known that the engine was
seizing I wouldn't have restarted it after it died the first time but at the
time I didn't suspect oil because it was full and the light never so much as
flickered after it was started.

 

PF 47--ac-delco-pf47....FRAM ARE JUNK....

 

^ That's what I use on my '96 monte carlo

 

I agree with Steve. Look - I'm not a defender of Fram, but if you're
going to criticize something, don't make stuff up to over-state your
case. Your case should stand on its own merits.

Also, your argument is pointless unless you identify which model filter
you ar talking about. Some of your comments do not apply to, say, the
Fram ToughGuard™, which is reasonably priced.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

 

I've been using Proline from Pep Boys for years. Someone other than I
did a teardown similar to the one mentioned earlier in the thread.
Proline looked pretty good in that analysis.

Ken