need haynes manual

hi
(x-posted)
i need a haynes manual for the following:
mitsubishi / dodge / plymouth / chrysler (same car) 1989 colt (model
200) (?2000 series)
it has a 1.5 l engine; 4 cylinders; mpi; automatic transmission; 4 door;

fairly urgent
PLEASE ADVISE!
thanks in advance!

 

Nobody needs a Haynes manual. You are much better off buying a factory
manual, used if need be to save cost.


Matt

 

No, you don't need a Haynes manual. You need a factory service
manual.

 

The only thing a Haynes manual (or Chilton for that matter) is good for
is for wiping your hands off after your completed the job correctly when
using the Factory Service Manual.

Yes, more expensive, but worth the cost, as both Haynes and Chilton
are chock full off errors and incomplete directions.

 

No, you don't need a Haynes manual for the following. You need a FACTORY
service manual for the following. Haynes manuals are worse than worthless.

This should be included with every Haynes manual sold:

http://u225.torque.net/haynes_instructions.html

 

<snip>
thank you (Matt, Joe, Mike, and Daniel (also for the link on the
instructions) ...
i get the picture.
i have the fsm -- i need something simpler (that explains more simply) as an
adjunct to the fsm.
(please do NOT tell me i should not be working on a car if i cannot
understand the fsm or similar
any suggestions (relating to a book) would be very much appreciated
thanks in advance!

 

Not a fan of these manuals, but here's a link to a chiltons book.

http://www.delmarlearning.com/browse_product_detail.aspx?catid=12024&isbn=0801990629

 

Thing is, the Haynes or Chilton book *won't* do that. What is it that
you're having trouble understanding? Perhaps a basic automotive theory and
nomenclature book would do the job...

 

To elaborate a little on my earlier comment -- one of the many reasons
you don't want Haynes is that the way they "simplify" is by leaving
out steps.

Asking questions is probably the best bet.

 

hi and thanks for answering!
basically i have S.T.U.P.I.D. questions (for ex: what tools i would need) this is
in the haynes manual for my other car --
i would NOT follow haynes / chiltons for procedures if they were outlined in the
fsm.

do you know of any basic automotive theory / nomenclature books (more technical
than for ex: "the complete idiot's guide to auto mechanics")?
thanks
sincerely
Tanya

 

i would not rely only on the simpler books but use it / them as a guideline and
follow the fsm etc.

my questions are stupid... how to access certain parts (what parts i need to
remove).
what type of tools are needed for replacing spark-plugs (for that vehicle) etc.
the tool issue is the primary question for now. my haynes manual for my other car
lists what i would need <clearly> i imagine it is accurate wrt the list of tools
-- i should hope -- maybe not?
thanks!
sincerely
Tanya

 

thank you for the link!
sincerely
Tanya

 

I wouldn't look to Haynes for that. I'd look for a general textbook on
auto repair, in the short term. In the long term, I'd sign up for a
class or two at a local Votech school.


Matt

 

Hi, Tanya.

Why don't you try posting about what task you want to perform, and we will
give you an idea as to what tools you need to get the job done properly.
Meanwhile, we'll assume you have some basic things you need for most
automotive repairs:

Basic Tools
o Socket sets: 1/2" and 3/8" drive, both SAE and metric sizes. Extensions
for same; the more and longer the better.
o Box-end or combination open-end/box-end wrenches. SAE and metric sizes.
o Pliers. You can frequently get away with a standard pair, but
adjustables come in handy. Needle-nosed pliers are especially useful as
well.
o Wire cutter/stripping tool. You don't need anything fancy.
o Screwdrivers. A selection of both Phillips and flat-blades. Long,
skinny flat-blades are often handy.
o A utility knife, or other similar instrument.
o Hammer. If you have a typical claw hammer, it will do. A ball-peen
hammer is useful.
o Rubber or (less desirable) wooden mallet. Used for "gently" "persuading"
things, where a regular hammer would damage parts.
o Scraping tool -- a putty knife or razor-blade scraper will suffice. You
may also require a plastic scraper if you're going to be removing old gasket
material from soft aluminum surfaces.
o A pry (or crow) bar of some sort.
o A magnetic tool, usually telescoping, for retrieving dropped fasteners or
sockets
o An oil drain pan
o A small floor jack and a pair of jack stands. Choose carefully if you're
working on a large SUV; some are heavier than the rating on the less
expensive jacks/stands, and are too high off the ground to be lifted.
o Something to block the wheels when lifting the vehicle with the jack. A
couple of bricks work fine.
o A shop light, with a steel or plastic protective cage surrounding the
bulb. An inexpensive incandescent light works fine, but you'll want to
spend an extra dollar or two for the 'rough service' lightbulbs.

Consumables
o A wire brush
o An aerosol can of penetrating lubricant.
o An aerosol can of carburetor cleaner or brake parts cleaner
o A small blowtorch and a cylinder of propane, along with matches or a
spark igniter
o An abundance of old rags, paper towels and a good waterless hand cleaner.
Lava soap works as well.
o A roll of electrical tape

There are obviously many, many other items you could add to this list.
These are probably the bare minimum you will want to have to tackle light
repair work. Being that winter is setting in for many parts of the country,
you will likely need to find a sheltered location to do your work.

If you're going to be doing much at all, add a torque wrench to the list
above. You'll probably actually want two: one with a range in inch-pounds
for small fasteners, and one with a range in foot-pounds for larger
fasteners. Basic units start around $25, but the quality is questionable.

--Geoff

 

Tanya, if you read the section in the FSM and don't understand it, your
questions aren't going to be stupid.

Some joker asked if he could feed his car vegetables a couple days ago
in rec.autos.tech, THAT is a stupid question.

You may not think so but it is as easy as pie to tell the difference between
a fool who doesen't have a FSM and asks a stupid question, and someone
who does have a FSM, reads the pertinent section, then asks questions.

In fact questions like this are why we all bother reading this ng.

etc.

You aren't going to help yourself by asking something like this and not
telling
us why.

Here's a start, you can let me know if I'm wrong or not:

"My car is running like crap and I want to do a basic tuneup to eliminate
obvious bullshit, so I'm replacing the coil/plugs/wires, I read the FSM and
what tools should I use"

Ted

 

hi Geoff
thanks very much for posting the tool list!
i REALLY appreciate it
i *do* have some of tools that you mention...
thanks again
sincerely,
Tanya

 

hi and thanks for replying and for the suggestions
[...below...]

close
car runs poorly when it is cold (even without the blower (fan in the car)) -- it
*does* start with no problem ...
the spark plugs were changed last week (the ones that were replaced are VERY
black and were only in the car for ~ 10 months)

i want to look at the spark plugs -- i don't know how

thanks again
sincerely
Tanya

 

hi,
thanks for the suggestion
i have the factory manual.
sincerely,
Tanya

 

Leave the plugs alone. If your plugs were very black when changed last week
after only being in the engine for 10 months, then your engine is burning
oil, unless they were the wrong plugs. If nothing has been changed since 10
months
ago other than the plugs, the ones that are in there today are rapidly on
their way to
getting black.

What does the inside of the end of the tailpipe look like? Is it black and
sooty?

If you have the car idling in the driveway on a sunny day and someone guns
the engine, does a big puff of stinky blueish smoke come out the back?

How many miles are on this 1989 Colt? How many quarts of oil is this car
going
through in between oil changes?

The cold drivability problems are just a side effect, and are not important.
They
are probably happening because this is a high-mileage engine with worn
rings,
which is why it's burning oil, and the compression on this engine is in the
toilet.
As a result the engine systems are way out of wack, trying to overcompensate
for
this.

If your using more than a quart of oil every 2000 miles then your not going
to
fix this by adjusting and tinkering with the engine. You either need a new
engine, or a rebuild on the one you have, or a junkyard engine that isn't
worn
out.

Ted

 

if you really wish to use these manuals try your local library, from
reading the other posts sounds as if a) you would be better off looking
yourself and making your own gameplan to work on a vehicle (at least if
you leave steps out or make extra steps all you can blame is yourself)
b) pay attention to the reply about it being worn rings, could be fuel
air mixture also albiet very unlikely