Minivan Ignition oOck Cylinder

We have a 1999 Chrysler Town & Country Minivan with about 54K miles. When
it was about two years old we had a problem with the ignition lock that
stranded my wife and required a tow to the dealer. The problem was fixed
under warranty and at the time the dealer said it was a freak thing and said
it was unlikely to reoccur.

Well, its 2+ years later and guess what, the van is stuck in my garage and
the key won't turn no matter how much I have tried to jiggle the lock,
played with the steering wheel lock, and the gear shifter. I have never had
the wheel or the ignition area open before and would appreciate any advice I
can get before I attempt to look at it tomorrow.

Symptoms: Ignition car slides easily into lock and the ring light goes on
and off when the key is removed. Key WILL move to the "alternator" position
and the radio and when this is done the dash controls illuminate normally.
No matter how hard I try, the key just will not turn forward. It almost
feels like I have the wrong key... When my wife had this problem, I
expected it was the wheel lock had been cocked and was exerting force
holding the lock from turning. I immediately checked the wheel and it
turned freely about a half turn in either direction. I continued to turn it
to the right and the wheel locked as it should do, but the key still did not
budge. I've sprayed some WD-40 down the key hole, but again no luck.

Any ideas? I'd like to take a shot at this myself since towing will be a
b**** this time around since the vehicle has the transmission and wheel
locked and is in the garage so can't be accessed from the front easily.

Thanks in advance for all ideas and Happy Thanksgiving to all.

Bob

 

Call around there are guys (at least in this city there are) that specialize
in this kind of thing and will come to your house, driveway, parking lot,
etc. and take apart the steering column to fix the lock. Without a factory
service manual and the right tools, forget it.

Ted

 

Ted,

Thanks for the suggestion. I found the paperwork from last time around when
this was done under warranty. Seems the dealer replaced the ignition lock
cylinder (#5003843AB) and the steering column housing (#4690523). There are
no parts prices or labor shown on the invoice since this was done under
warranty.

I was surprised to see the housing was replaced and this tells me that they
must have broken this part to get to the cylinder. If anyone has the FSM
and could offer instructions on getting the lock cylinder out it would be
very much appreciated. I plan to take a look at it this afternoon since we
need the vehicle running ASAP.

I will also call around per your suggestion to local locksmiths and also see
what the dealer suggests to see if I can figure out my alternatives.

Bob

 

Removed the negative battery cable (to be safe), then removed the covers
upper and lower plastic housing covers (three Phillips screws then easily
unsnapped) and then removed the key illumination ring (two simple pry tabs,
did not need to remove the connector). At this point tried to get the
cylinder out by depressing the push tab, but it would not come out.

Called the local dealer parts department and asked about the replacement
cylinder (provide VIN and price of part was $118 programmed to vehicle).
They said that the key needed to be in the "on" position to get the cylinder
out. They recommended using a hammer to tap on the key while using
appropriate force to get the key to turn. I did this and also pushed
slightly on the wheel to free the steering wheel lock. It took a bit of
force, but eventually turned and the lock came out easily.

I then tried the lock out of the vehicle and it seemed to be working
perfectly so I oiled it well and then re-installed without replacing. It
seems to be working well, so we will wait and see. At least now I know if
it does get stuck again how to get it freed up and then replace it.

I am sharing what I learned here so others can benefit if they experience
the same problem.

Bob

 

You can tap on the key at the same time trying to start the car and it will
turn for you, the waffers are bad in the cylinder, even if you got it out
you still hav to have it coded

 

Hey, see my post about a 2001 T&C with a key that wouldn't turn. We're having
to have the key cylinder replaced,and it's not cheap.

ajw

 

AJW,

Yes, I saw your post and can recall a couple of others over the many years
I've read this newsgroup. (Based on the lack of postings, I don't think
this has been a major defect in this or any other Chrysler vehicle...)
Truth of the matter is that it was the second time we've had trouble with
the lock cylinder. First time was under warranty and there was no cost to
us, although it was a terrible inconvenience to lose the vehicle and have to
get it towed to the dealer. (Fortunately we were close to home.) This time
around I took the cylinder out myself and once it was removed was unable to
see a problem. (It seemed to turn fine once I used the hammer and some
restrained force.) I oiled and cleaned it and then re-assembled and its
been working fine for the last several days. I have no idea what caused it
to freeze up, but suspect a burr of some kind in the mechanism. In any
event, the part was $117 at the dealer and I avoided that expense (at least
for now.)

This is why I posted my experience. I wanted to make sure that if any one
else had this problem they benefited from my learning. I also wanted to
make sure the problems were documented here for anyone doing a search to
determine if there is a quality problem with this part.

Bob