how to program key fob

I have copied and pasted they here from another site
altho the manual describes how to program a keyless fob if you have an
existing one, it doesn't explain what to do if that doesn't work (I
couldn't get a ready chime) or if you do not have an existing one. Hope
this helps all us 'keylueless' people.

Here is a quick HowTo on programming your own keyless entry:

1) Turn ignition to OFF.
2) Locate the Data Link Connector, its a black 16 pin connecter that is
under the driver's side dash, right where your right knee would be. You
have to look up into the dash from below to see it.
3) Ground pin 1 of the Data Link Connector by taking a wire or paper
clip and running it from pin 1 to pin 4. Pin 4 is ground so you can
just short pin 1 to 4 and it will be grounded. Grounding pin 1 tells
the system you are ready to reprogram it.
4) Close all of your doors.
5) Turn the key to ACC then back off. The power door locks will
lock/unlock. This is the signal that the system is ready for
reprogramming.
6) Push a button on your key fob, doesn't matter which button.
7) If you have 2 key fobs, then press a button on the 2nd fob within 1
minute of pressing a button on the 1st fob. Both must be programmed at
the same time. If you only have 1 fob then press a button 2 more times
to signal that you only have one.
8) The doors will lock/unlock to signal the codes were received.
9) Remove the jumper wire from the data connector.

 

What years/models is this for. I was under the impression for the 2nd
gen. LH cars that without a working FOB, you have to go to the dealer to
have one programed.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

 

When I purchased my 2002 GC, I insisted on them getting me an owners
manual. I am glad I did.

I do recall reading in the manual how to program a new FOB into the
system, and for that make and model you do NOT have to go to the
dealer. Also, you do NOT have to program all FOBs at once. The
computer remebers the last 4 FOBs programmed. So you DO want to verify
FOB operations after programming - just in case.

I also recall that you don't need to do any fancy grounding or
anything.

 

Depending on the year and model will depend on the proper way to program
remotes. The older style LHS's had to a have a wire grounded in order to
program them. Some models have to have all key fobs in hand to program, If
one is programmed and the others are not in hand those will loose the
program. Some models will require that you already have 2 key fobs
programmed before you can do it yourself on the 3rd one. If there is not 2
already programmed then the dealer will have to use the scan tool to program
it.

Glenn Beasley
Chrysler Tech

 

i just replaced some dash wiring because someone told the customer they could
ground a wire in the obd2 connector and they let the smoke out of the wires

 

Interesting!! The only wire that could have burnt up if grounded would have
been the fused B+. if this wire was grounded why would the harness burn up?
It is protected by a fuse. SRI recieve and transmit would not burn the
harness if grounded. PCI bus would not burn up if grounded. Flash program
circuit would not burn up if grounded and of course the ground wire would
not burn up if grounded. would this be another one of your stories?

Glenn

 

C'mon Glenn, you know he can't be bothered with facts. LOL

 

I just thought maybe he left something out like maybe the cust got cold
and
built a small fire under the dash to keep his feet warm and the harness
melted that way. Its hard to tell!!

Glenn

 

it was a gm car not a chrysler and a lot can burn before a fused b+ circuit blows
a fuse

 

now lets just suppose a small short to ground on your b+ is resting against a
pci wire
and before the fuse blows a slight meltdown takes place and the insulation
melts off the pci wire and a few others then a bare12 volt wire now touches
three wires and there is enough b+ flowing thru the wires so the amp load does
not blow a fuse and you lose a couple of modules because of spikes because
there is now direct ground except what the module has. ect. ect. but this is
just supposing
now Glenn for the most part you the dealer tech will not see this kind of
repair because the cost of a dealer repairing this sort of thing on a car with
out comp. insurance is
plain fucking outrageous and people are tired of going bac 3 times to get
other things broke in the process fixed but bllsht there is no facts in these
words just supposing

 

"Yawn"

 

Still Yawning!!

 

In engineering, the type of scenario you described is called a "smart
short" - i.e., it "knows" how much of a short (in the available range of
0 to infinity ohms) to present to do damage yet not open the protection
device. You try to design against such occurrences, but 'tis not always
possible.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

 

Just as I said, and just as you confirmed. Facts are not important to
you. The OP was talking about intentionally grounding a wire in the
DLC on a CHRYSLER vehicle. Not some made up scenario on a GM vehicle.

 

normal for you

 

tell that to maxpower he knows all !does he know that!

 

it wasn't made up i just spent 4 hours repairing the main dash harness for this
issue

 

You just don't get it do you?