How long left is this 3.0 Mitsubishi?

The problem is that I have tried to discuss this with mechanics. About
five of them, so far. None have been able to clarify what is wrong. And
none, and I mean none, are really enthusiastic about diagnosing this
problem. One master mechanics, going by reputation and diplomas on his
wall, said he would research this engine but has not gotten back to me.

The best advice I have had is from a seller of both Japanese and
American engines who used to rebuild them. http://www.usedengine.com/
They are willing to warranty their engines for six months with
unlimited mileage. They will test the engine beforehand, like a
compression test. They are the middle ground between a salvaged engine
and a rebuilt engine in regards to price. I did find one salvaged
engine place that is also willing to warranty and tests the engines on
the cars before taking them out - or so they say. They are willing to
sell engines with 95,000 miles on them for about $250. That is quite
inexpensive but all I would know is that the engine runs and has a
warranty. Fine, so what do I do, send the engine back if it does not
work by Parcel Post?

The fellow from usedengine.com told me that a Japanese Mitsubishi
cannot work easily in the Voyager because of the differences in the oil
flow system. Theoretically, one could drill a 10" hole into the block
to retrofit the Japanese engine but the odds of doing this well are
fairly remote for even most machine shops since there is no real room
for error. In any case, the fellow, one of the owners, used to rebuild
engines, so he was quite familiar with this. I would prefer a 1994
engine since the valve guide problems and oil burning were fixed by
1994 with the use of hardened materials and other engineering fixed on
the 3.0 liter V6 by Mitsubishi. This compounds the problem a little in
finding a good, pre-owned engine.

He said, why not do a exhaust chemical test on the radiator? Takes 10
minutes and easier than checking the pressure in each individual
cylinder. No one mentioned that here in this newsgroup or in the
dealership or in the independent shops that I went to. A simple
definitive test for hydrocarbons in the coolant. Anybody familiar with
that here? Is it true it would establish a head gasket problem, as
opposed to other problems?

As far as my seeming discombobulated, that is because I go to the
experts and I get a run around. Most of them seem to say, run it into
the ground and then throw in a new engine.

I am going to look for a mechanic who will try to use his wits and
diagnose the vehicle as much as possible without tearing down the
heads. That would be worthwhile to me. The cost for tearing down the
heads is about what another engine would cost in labor. If the
mechanic can convince me to tear down the heads, then that is fine. But
again, none of the mechanics I have been to, either Chrysler or
independents, seem inclined to even suggest the old-fashioned method of
taking the engine apart to fix it because it takes too much time to be
worthwhile to the customer. Maybe a shade tree mechanic who is curious.

Okay, you troglodyte, now it's your turn to growl.

 

The bottom line if you are not a DIY person is you are better off to
get out of the vehicle unless you are in love with it and if you are
just buy a reman engine from the most trustworthy source and pay the
bill. I mean you already have 200K on the vehicle, it has given you
your money worth.

What is this 10 inch hole the Japanese engine lacks used for? Where is
it located? Those are questions I would be asking. Of course the hole
is probably not 10 inches in diameter but rather is probably a 10 inch
long oil passage of small diameter. Is engine oil used for some
external service on the vehicle? I doubt it. Maybe there is an oil
cooler or something, probably you could use a oil filter block off
plate and a remote filter pad, which would also enable you to use a pad
that takes a much cheaper Ford or Chevy Fram filter.

Probably your heads can be fitted with the later guides. But these are
not an engine like a SB Chev, Ford or Mopar V8 with a hot rodder
knowledge base out there. You either keep it 100% stock or engineer
from scratch, unlike a V8 hot rodders rebuild and race and tear up with
a three inch catalog of catalog parts and a lot of people who know
where it blows up, why, and the fix.

 

diagnose the vehicle as much as possible without tearing down the
heads. That would be worthwhile to me. The cost for tearing down the
heads is about what another engine would cost in labor. If the
mechanic can convince me to tear down the heads, then that is fine. But
again, none of the mechanics I have been to, either Chrysler or
independents, seem inclined to even suggest the old-fashioned method of
taking the engine apart to fix it because it takes too much time to be
worthwhile to the customer. Maybe a shade tree mechanic who is curious.

Okay, you troglodyte, now it's your turn to growl. <<

At today's labor rates only shade tree mechanics CAN fix rather than
pluck and chuck on vehicles today.

If this were a million dollar plus jet engine we would be using
fiberoptic borescopes and other such techniques but even airlines with
union mechanics do not figure $100 an hour as mechanics' pay. The best
paid airline mechanics are probably taking home sixty to seventy grand
a year. Plus benefits, et al.

Even with the best borescopes, sonic check devices, etc nothing is
going to give you the diagnostic results simply demating the engine and
laying it all out on a shelf set will. You then could Magnaflux the
crank and rods, Zyglo the heads, etc. but a visual inspection with a
little picking and probing is enough.

I take a hell of a lot of pride in "shade tree mechanicking". Maybe
you should visit an EAA chapter sometime.

 

Certainly not, but not entirely unknown to some:

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/chrysler3literV6/