Grand Caravan 93 3.3

Hmm, 1969, what kind of vehicle is that?

(I would have guessed 1975 400)

Thanks.

 

Before you apply the goo, you might want to clean things if you can.
I've used alcohol and files and screwdrivers and whatever else I can
on connections in general. It's amazing that apparently even clean ones
get oxydized. There used to be names in electronics like "microphonics"
or "gremlins" when things would and would not work and it was hard
to know why. If the wires are not broken, just reseating them might
scrape off enough oxydation. I've used the goo DS mentions on regular
household connections and then you can feel warm sockets become cool
because the electrons are moving more swiftly and happily.

BTW, I agree with your analysis of the dealer if the dealer does a good job.
My local mechanic had so little equipment he had to send the car to
the dealer for the emissions testing. And no way could he test an
older car's tranny coputer, for example, except by replacement .
Not even the local tranny guy seemed all that inclined with firmware.
And the dealers sometimes hold back or sit on crucial info as the
independents are complaining, about 60% in the last poll I saw
in the newspapers. In another post I wrote about a great dealer
but I had the version number of the firmware firmly in hand
before I bent their poor ears. Nice folks though.

 

A small number of European cars (VW...) appeared with an early version of
Bosch D-Jetronic EFI that year. Over the next few years, use of D-Jetronic
spread to include Mercedes and Volvo (both starting in '71) and others. GM
ripped off D-Jetronic so completely for their '77 Seville that many
components actually interchange.

400...?


DS

 

The first "Lean Burn" computer controlled engine was the 400, IIRC.

 

Pin-type connectors on engine computers generally respond well to a
dozen-pack of standard wooden pencils. Push the eraser straight down onto
each pin, then pull it straight up, move over to the next pin(s) and
repeat, changing to a new pencil when the eraser you're working with gets
tattered.

I think the GB people who make Ox-Gard ought to replace their present
descriptive blurb with yours.

DS

 

LOL! That's probably the description printed on the packaging of
Ox-Gard's Japanese competitor's product when packaged for sale in
English-speaking countries.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
adddress with the letter 'x')

 

Naw, that would read more like this:

It is the electron happiness in harmony. For results that can being the
finest, it is our recommending that: Never to squeeze these two times! If
you will applicate to the disrobed wire and then tightening, you will have
a happy feeling!

www.engrish.com

DS

 

By Jove - I think you've got it! 8^)

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
adddress with the letter 'x')

 

That's right, Steve !

Thanks, Daniel !

 

I love it !
Thanks, Daniel.

It reminds me of spam from The Orient, translated
into English worse than Babelfish.

"This will give you partener multiple penises
with bigger orgasm for all!"

 

Same here. On a package of kelp: "It is the seaweed plant. The tastes is
offensive and fresh-delicious. The god for gnarl, goiter and."

 

Ok, I found the Ox-Gard, took out the SBEC (PCM) or Engine Control Module,
took it out and checked the pins. They really looked very good, no
corrosion, shiny and clean. I applied the Ox-Gard and put it back together.
We'll see what happens. While I had the everything apart I checked the
wires pretty well and did not see any obvious problems. After I got it back
together, I started it up and again checked the wires and lightly tapped the
computer to see if I could cause the car to stop or at least skip a beat.
No luck, so I'll drive it and see if it stops again.

thanks,
Nick

 

Nick, The dealer has a tool called "co-pilot" that is used to locate
intermittent problems such as the one you are having. It snaps a picture of
what the PCM was doing when the problem occured.
All you do is push a button when it acts up and then the data is downloaded
and read, If the technician cant see what caused it he can send the data off
to Chrysler to have it read.
It is a very good tool for this kind of problem. Normally the charge would
be 1 hr labor

Glenn Beasley
Chrysler Tech=----

 

There y'go.

DS

 

take a hair dryer to it and get it good and hot then it might act up

 

Update: I've also had a problem starting this van. I would have to turn
the key off and on 2 to 3 times before it would start. It would crank fine
but just not fire. After consulting with this board and nearly eliminating
all other issues, I was convinced I might have a leaking injector(s). But
since I applied the Ox-Gard and put it back together, the car starts on the
first key on. It still cranks a second or so, but I don't have to turn the
key off and back on a few times. The pins looked good. The only thing I
can think of is maybe some pin(s) were compressed together and not making a
good connection. I noticed the pin(s) are notched and maybe some were too
close together. Sounds like a long shot, but that's the only thing I did.
We'll see.

thanks,
Nick