Dodge Intrepid 3.2L low oil pressure light

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by Greg Houston, Nov 9, 2006.

  1. Greg Houston

    Bill Putney Guest

    Well DUH!! (That's sarcasm aimed at myself - not at you.) That would
    explain it (LED draws less than 10mA - probably under 5mA - for dim
    lighting).

    Bill Putney
    (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
    address with the letter 'x')
     
    Bill Putney, Dec 3, 2006
    #21
  2. Greg Houston

    Bill Putney Guest

    Greg acknowledged that and realizes that replacing the switch is not
    necessary, but he's doing it anyway.
    Bill Putney
    (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
    address with the letter 'x')
     
    Bill Putney, Dec 3, 2006
    #22
  3. Greg Houston

    Bill Putney Guest

    That puzzled me until I read your later post.

    This appears to be the sum of the matter:
    (1) The connector comes vented from the factory on all except the
    '98/'99 2.7L.
    (2) All 3.2/3.5 regardless of year come from the factory already vented.
    (3) The TSB (removing the rubber seal from the 2nd (unused) connector
    wire hole and replacing with a regular wire and terminal to act as a
    vent) only applies to the '98/'99 2.7.
    (4) The vent wire added according to the TSB is the same as what comes
    from the factory on the 3.2.

    Is that correct?

    Bill Putney
    (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
    address with the letter 'x')
     
    Bill Putney, Dec 3, 2006
    #23
  4. Greg Houston

    Ken Weitzel Guest

    Hi...

    Hold on a minute before you sarcasize (what? :) yourself, Bill.

    I'd respectfully suggest a second opinion, or another examination
    to insure that it really is a led first.

    It's very difficult to make a led glow dimly. Once it reaches
    breakdown and triggers, it's on sufficiently bright that I doubt
    the OP would call it dim.

    It can be dimmed a little by first triggering it, and then reducing
    the voltage a little, but first must be bright for at least a
    millisecond, but it's real hard to hold it there.

    Take care.

    Ken
     
    Ken Weitzel, Dec 3, 2006
    #24
  5. Greg Houston

    maxpower Guest

    It does not apply to the 2000 and newer model Because the issue was
    fixed after and vents were built into the connector. But if the vent get
    stoped up the problem could still occur on all years
    It is the same set up and the problem occurs on all applications including
    the 4 cylinders, 3.3 and 3.8 6cly engine

    The TSB adds a terminal/wire vent to the connector on the effected years. (I
    always remove the seal from the connector)
     
    maxpower, Dec 3, 2006
    #25
  6. Greg Houston

    philthy Guest

    teflon tape is the only seal

     
    philthy, Dec 3, 2006
    #26
  7. Greg Houston

    Greg Houston Guest

    Hmm. Which TSB are you referring to? The one I'm looking at is 08-36-99
    "Engine Oil Pressure Light Flicker", a copy of which may be found online here
    (jpeg)
    http://mytsb.bravehost.com/ It describes adding the terminal wire/vent to the
    oil pressure switch. This one is pretty clear that it only concerns the 2.7L
    engine, and it didn't even appear for TSBs applicable for my 3.2L.

    I have one LH car, a '99 Intrepid ES with 3.2 Liter engine.
     
    Greg Houston, Dec 3, 2006
    #27
  8. Greg Houston

    maxpower Guest

    Just forget it.....replace the switch, clean the connector and be on the way
     
    maxpower, Dec 3, 2006
    #28
  9. Greg Houston

    Bill Putney Guest


    He's talking about the rubber seal that blocks the unused wire hole
    built into the connector.

     
    Bill Putney, Dec 4, 2006
    #29
  10. Greg Houston

    Bill Putney Guest

    Hmmm - that's not the way LED's work. LED's can be made to be as bright
    or as dim as you want them as long as they are seeing their forward
    conduction voltage - you can vary brightness with a variable resistor,
    adjusting it back and forth in a continuum of brightness with no
    hysteresis - a potentiometer something on the order of 10k ohm
    configured as a variable resistor would illustrate this. They don't
    experience breakdown with huge hysteresis like a flash lamp or neon bulb
    where it takes more voltage to start it (initial ionization potential)
    than it does to maintain it. A relatively high resistance drain to
    ground would do it.

    Bill Putney
    (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
    address with the letter 'x')
     
    Bill Putney, Dec 4, 2006
    #30
  11. Greg Houston

    Greg Houston Guest

    Update II:
    A few weeks ago I changed the oil and inspected the oil pressure switch. I noticed
    that there was nothing protecting the wire near the switch. The wire descends to the
    switch encased in a plastic flexible hose-like conduit. About 4 inches from the
    sensor, the conduit ends and the (insulated) wire is exposed all the way to where it
    enters the end of the switch. In other words there is no outer wrapping for the wire
    near the pressure switch. Is that normal? I wrapped the wire near the switch with
    electric tape as best I could and so far the light has remained off.....
    Thanks!
     
    Greg Houston, Jan 2, 2007
    #31
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