Daniel

It has become obvious to me that you don't know what you're talking
about, because you are spending more time making stupid jokes than
answering a question. If you can't answer it, then just leave it be.
You haven't drove this car, you haven't even seen it and I wasn't
asking for you to diagnose it, I just wanted some idea of what the
problem "might" be. Mechanics charge to look at/work on vehicles. I
wouldn't pay for your worthless advice anyway. I haven't been
anything but respectful to all of you and it seems to me like all you
have to do is piss people off. Well fine, you aren't the only person
in the world that knows something, if anything, about cars. Get a
life!

 

Suit yourself. I've owned a total of four and maintained a total of six of
your exact vehicle. I guess you're right, though, I must not know what I'm
talking about.

I guess you're right. That whole thing about how your noise is caused by
the engine mount, and there being an exact procedure for centering the
engine to correct this noise, and the procedure being contained on pages
9-12 to 9-13 of the factory serbive manual under "ENGINE MOUNTS", with
further information about solving this noise contained in Technical
Service Bulletin number 090192? All that stuff? Just forget it. It was all
a stupid joke.

I guess you must be right, I can't answer it.

That is exactly what you asked.

That is exactly what you got. (Though, remember, it was all a big made-up
joke.)

Good thing it costs $0.00, then.

Yeah, because lamely answering "I didn't think the same people would
answer the question when I asked this time" is being all respectful 'n'
stuff.

Well, gosh, darn, you caught me. I guess the jig is up and I can no longer
post accurate and precise information in response to anybody's questions,
complete with references to factory documentation, because Mr. D has
figured me out. Shee-yoot, now I'm all sad and mopey. :-( :-(

 

Here's a link that will give you an *idea* what is involved,, not exactly
the same but close... courtesy of Paul Smith and whatever manual he pirated
for the pics..

http://www.turbovan.net/axlechng.htm

The job is charged 2 hours in Chicago (~125/hr here) and the part is about
$70 so it's about $300 to have it done here.

My *free* advice is if you are going to do it yourself ,, take it to a local
rebuilder and have them rebuild it for you.. I for one have had terrible
results from the chains (Peps, Murrays, and Autozone) dunno about NAPA
none close to me,, they just don't hold up..Although if you go to poops and
have it done, they may have an extended warranty on it if you don't mind
going back again and again.

I had 4 of those cars over the years,, 3 Acclaims and 1 Spirit,, all 4cyls,,
and put almost a million miles on them..and they all had that noise.. These
are just absolutely awesome vehicles,, In all those miles,, NEVER left me
stranded once.. Fix it until the body falls off. Repad the seats,, overhaul
engines, trans,, whatever..!! Believe me ,, once you get *spoiled* by the
cheap operation of this vehicle,, you will be spoiled forever..

 

Um, okay. Just to refresh your memory, part of your original post stated
exactly this:

"but does anybody know if the drive shaft or anything
else will have to be replaced? How much labor do you think I would be
looking at for a job like this and would this be something that I
could do myself."

Gee wiz, D, sounds like you are asking for a diagnosis to me. How else
could the above statement be interpreted?

You obviously do not read any of the VERY helpful info that Dan
REGULARLY gives on this newsgroup. I can't blame him for making a
mockery of very stupid questions/responses/replys/reposts.

 

I read the OP differntly.
He has a car with a ripped boot.
He asked if anything other than the boot needed to be replaced.
The car also makes a noise.

The answer to his question?
Very simple.
It depends.
On what?
How long has the boot been ripped?
Has the grease either left the joint or been contaminated with dirt
and/or water?
If so, has the joint beed worn/damaged?
If so, the joint needs replacing. If not, it needs dissassembling and
cleaning and repacking.
If during the dissassembly, cleaning and repacking, it is determined
the joint has been damaged, it requires replacement.

If after the joint has been addressed, the noise remains, THEN it is
time to look farther and determine :
1) if the noise is abnormal
2) if the noise indicates something serious
3) what is causing the noise.

THEN the issue of how to correct it can be answered.

As for the inner joint boots ripping on Chrysler front wheel drive
vehicles, it is a common occurence - even when the engine mounts are
good and properly adjusted - and it can happen on either side.

Another reason for "preventative" maintenance. When the car is on the
hoist for an oil change, things like axle boots are readily checked
and you KNOW they have been damaged for less than 3 months when they
are discovered - ASSUMING you are either doing the maintenance
yourself and know what you are doing, or you have a real mechanic, not
a lube shop droid doing the maintenance.

In most cases, a joint that has had a cracked boot for less than 3
months can be put back in service with a clean/lube/replace boot.

In MOST cases, one that has been open for 4 or more months has
suffered damage requiring replacement. Not to say a joint cannot get
enough water and dirt into it in a week to do damage, or that a joint
can NOT go six months without being damaged - but the odds are against
both.

 

You know watching Dan Stern post over the years in everything from
bobistheoilman.com forums to the Shelby Dodge forums, one thing is clear:
The guy knows what he's talking about. He comes off as cynical sometimes but
there's always at least a valid suggestion for the presented problem,
especially when it comes to automotive lighting, but in general technical
areas as well. I'd cut him some slack and brush it off if you don't like
what you're being told.