Chrysler Reliability?..

Engine vacuum operates the EGR. So, coasting in, with no load, engine
has higher vacuum.
Also, in gear the engine is under load. Sticking EGR reduces the power
output of the engine - it MAY run with no load, yet still stall under
load (in gear). My '88 had just that stalling problem - so did my '95
pontiac. Replacing the EGR solved the problem on both. (actually, the
EGR valve on one, and a vacuum control gizmo of some sort on the
other)

 

Ours did the 12 55 continually when giving all the problems. Former dealer
couldn't/wouldn't do anything so the other dealer took over. I should also
point out that the new dealer found a part that the former dealer rplaced with
a new part that they broke while installing. Rather than replace the part they
just let it go.

RP

 

Er, no. It doesn't work that way. A stuck-open or leaking EGR valve will
prevent the engine idling whether the vehicle's in gear or in neutral.

Proper diagnosis is what is needed -- not random guesses.

DS

 

depends on how far it's stuck open dummy.

 

Not if it sticks open partially, which many have done, and only causes a
slightly rough idle, high long term adaptive memory numbers and occasional
stalling conditions because it only sticks occasionally.
And what is this Er shit Dan? Is this your way of trying to assert some kind
of superiority here?

I thought the whole purpose of the newsgroup was possibilities to be delved
into by someone with a scan tool

(TIC) Then what the hell is everybody doing here in this newsgroup, nobody
here can hook up a scan tool to the cars in question on the newsgroup. So
there isn't a whole lot of "Diagnosis" going on here, just a lot of
uneducated guesswork from most and a few that have good knowledge but no way
to see the vehicles in question. That would make this EDUCATED guesswork.
But it's still guesswork and that is ALL that can happen here!

Dan, you are a work of art, I just haven't figured out what genre yet.

 

The service manager mentioned the TCC last time I had the van in, but
they can't find anything definitive. Took the van in again this morning
and, of course, it purred like a kitten the whole time I was there.
It also ran fine the rest of the day and then acted up tonight on my way
home.

I asked about the "copilot" and they said they just run with the DRB
attached, but they aren't willing to let me take one for a fews days of
driving. I asked.


Matt

 

Seems OK at first and worse when the engine is warm and worst when the
OAT is above 85.

Unfortunately, it isn't a failure mode that has thus far set a code.
And it is intermitten which makes troubleshooting a challenge.


Matt

 

Unfortunately, with the problem being intermittent, proper diagnosis has
thus far been elusive.


Matt

 

Yup - a real smart-ass, self righteous work of art.

 

EGR isn't allowed to operate until the engine has been running for a few
minutes (each year's specs are different). The EGR valve is feed with engine
vacuum. When the solenoid is turned off (not energized) no vacuum gets thru
to the EGR valve. Once the solenoid is energized vacuum is still blocked by
the fact that there is no exhaust backpressure. When there is no exhaust
backpressure to the EGR valve, the vacuum let thru by the solenoid is vented
to the atmosphere. As backpressure increases due to throttle opening (simple
explanation), more vacuum is routed to the EGR valve to open the valve. The
most EGR flow occurs at part to mid throttle. With no throttle, there is no
backpressure = no EGR flow. At high throttle openings there is very little
vacuum supply so very little EGR flow.
The backpressure vale and the solenoid are the black plastic piece at the
EGR valve. The backpressure valve is spring loaded (by an internal spring)
to the vacuum bleed position. Typically the spring (inside) rusts out and
can stick in any position between full bleed and full EGR. So when it goes
bad, it can show itself as just a rough idle, intermittent rough idle, stall
at every stop or intermittent stall at a stop.
Sooooo, someone (that knows what they are looking at) needs to verify
correct operation of the EGR valve or you can spend the money and just have
someone (or yourself) replace it (especially if the vehicle has high
mileage). They should be replaced at between 100K and 125K miles anyway. (no
that isn't in the maintenance schedule and that's a whole nother argument
for another place and time).

Bill

 

Yes, BUT I say in Dan's defense that he has given you all a lot of good
advice over the years. None of us are always right

Bill

 

That's the problem - they won't let you drive with it for a few days and
whenever you take it in you have no problem. That is how our former dealer
(Valencia Dodge - gave up on Valencia Chrysler long ago) was. There was one
afternoon when it was really acting up severely for my wife - stalled four
times from our house to the dealer - so i told the service manager to test
drive it THEN. His reply - "We are all in a meeting so we can't do it". That's
when I took it to Star Chrysler in Glendale. Too bad you aren't out here. They
could/would fix it for you!

RP

 

Ours acted up when warm - at idle or while driving - and when hot outside. The
hotter it was, the worse it acted. When cool, no problem. Your problem sounds
more and more like what we went through.

RP