Chrysler Alternator

How hard is it to replace a 2003 Chrysler Town and Country alternator? The
dealership I called wants $440 plus tax to install one.

 

What engine does your T&C have? Have you tested the alternator to
ensure that it is defective?

-KM

 

Poop Boys and AutoBone LOVE these guys. They'll sell you cheaply
rebuilt alternators all day long, when the trouble could be a fusable
link or simply a loose junction. Same used to apply back in the
generator days. "Rebuild? Sure!" Then, they'd come back an hour
later for the regulator...which usually only had a case of crusty
points.

 

The OEM part (new) costs about $300. A rebuilt can be had for under $200.
Why a rebuilt costs so much for this vehicle is hard to understand.

Richard.

 

thats why they call them stealerships

 

There's some good points in the replies. Be sure the Alternator really
is faulty before replacing it.

The fusible link was a good suggestion.

Also could be the voltage regulator, which is integral to the PCM. No
use replacing the alternator if the PCM actually needs to be replaced
(also expensive BTW).

Phil

 

WARNING- "DESERTBOB" is a ricer who drives an aging, rotted 1970's
Honda car- he knows nothing about Mopars and his tech advice is lies
and BS- BEWARE- he is a poser

 

Thanks to your reports to Google Groups,
has been banned by Google Groups from polluting Usenet anymore.

 

Some time ago, Dan Stern posted a procedure to disconnect the wiring
from the field terminals, and apply power directly from the battery as
a method of testing the alternator. It may be available on allpar.com.

Is your 2003 now out of warranty? If the PCM is not energizing the
alternator correctly, it may be expensive to replace.

-KM

 

The van is making a loud whining noise. I don't know exactly what the
dealership checked, the machanic just told me it was the alternator. He
said he put something metalto the alternator and the other end to his ear
and it was definetly coming from the alternator.

 

I forgot to add that the engine is a 3.8 and yes, unforturnately, the van
is out of warranty.

 

The ol' stethoscope test. Could be bad slip rings and/or front
bearing, but this seems to be rare to me. How many miles on the
vehicle?

 

Ok, I'll jump in here. I had a VERY similar experience, albeit on a Ford
Windstar, 3.8L with a bad alternator, I was quoted almost $480, but it
included a battery cable for $105. When I asked, I was told that the
alternator was $279, $105 for the cable, and $96 for labor(1.5 hours). The
problem they said was the sideways mount of the engine, making the
alternator belt inaccessible. The alternator they wanted to use was a ford
rebuilt, with a 90 day warrantee. The one that was in it, and not working,
was a NAPA rebuilt, with a lifetime warranty. The shop would not let me take
the old one down, and bring back a working alternator, it had to be a
theirs.
I got fed up, went to the NAPA dealer, and spent $30 for a long thin bar
used to reach the alternator belt tensioner. It took me 6 minutes to pull
the old alternator with hand tools, 3 minutes to exchange it for no cost,
and 6 minutes to put it back in and hook up the battery. After 15 minutes
and $30, I had another "lifetime" alternator. I then purchased a $5 battery
cable, and spliced in the extra ground wire from the old cable, and
installed it in about 10 minutes.
My advice:

1. Buy a rebuilt alternator.
2. Find someone reasonable to install it, or do it yourself.
3. Save 200 dollars.

Al G

 

That alternator has a clutch on it and when it develops a problem it can
make some strange noises, especially when you shut the engine off

Glenn

 

That's very interesting, but did you miss the part about the vehicle being
a Chrysler minivan? I think the problem is that (at least with the 3.3 and
3.8 engines) removal of the alternator is somewhat more complex. Even if
one can unbolt it, it is not clear how you get the unit out from its
position behind the front intake plumbing.

Although I am not the person who began this thread, I was rather hoping
someone would post a clear explanation of how this task is accomplished.

 

The job of the posters on Usenet is not to be a service manual.
Surely, you have the service manual. Alternatively, you may buy the
service manual. It's nice to have them ahead of time.

 

I had the exact same 'whinning' problem about 6 months ago. I replaced
it myself without much trouble. I think the hardest thing was getting
enough leverage to remove and replace the belt. I've always had the
feeling the noise was coming from the pulley damper.

Marvin Stockman

 

Sorry, that is the pulley damper on the alternator. Make sure the
'new' alternator comes with the damper installed.

Marvin Stockman