Camshaft and Crankshaft Sensors--I'M BACK

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by powrwrap, Mar 23, 2007.

  1. powrwrap

    philthy Guest

    torq. verses weight verses rpm
    i'm not saying that is the cause but that one code makes me wonder and i have repalced 3 flex plates in the last year for the same kind of complaints
    and it's one thing that can easy checked with the right tools
     
    philthy, Mar 26, 2007
    #21
  2. powrwrap

    philthy Guest

    more than likely
     
    philthy, Mar 26, 2007
    #22
  3. powrwrap

    philthy Guest

    no go for it
     
    philthy, Mar 26, 2007
    #23
  4. powrwrap

    powrwrap Guest

    OK, here's an update. A few weeks ago I did a more thorough cleaning
    of the throttle body area. I also tossed a can of Sea Foam in the gas
    tank. Wife reported no drivability problems--there was no one time
    jerk with the Check Engine Light flashing on--until yesterday when she
    said it jerked once at highway speed (she didn't notice if light came
    on or not).

    Today I went to a Chrysler dealer and got a copy of service bulletin
    18-34-98. It accurately describes our problem. I'm stunned that the
    solution is to disconnect and REMOVE AND DISCARD the knock sensor. Not
    replace, but remove and discard.

    If the wife reports the engine jerking problem again, I will
    disconnect the knock sensor and have her drive it to see if the
    problem goes away. However, seems to me I will have another problem,
    namely the potential for pinging and a constantly lit up Check Engine
    Light. Won't the loss of the knock sensor cause drivability problems,
    pinging, loss of gas mileage, etc., esp. in Minnesota with its wide
    temperature swings? Why don't they recommend replacing the knock
    sensor?
     
    powrwrap, May 2, 2007
    #24
  5. powrwrap

    bllsht Guest

    Just disconnect the damn thing and quit worrying about it.
     
    bllsht, May 3, 2007
    #25
  6. powrwrap

    Steve Guest

    Amen, and if you hear pinging buy a higher grade of fuel. Older knock
    sensors are notorious for starting to be "fooled" by normal engine
    noises as the engine gets some wear on it (wirst pin rattle, piston
    slap, etc.) and will cause the engine power to surge as the sensor
    fiddles around with the ignition timing trying to eliminate a knock that
    isn't really a knock at all.

    Disconnecting it will do exactly the opposite of everything you
    mentioned, exceot for pinging. Gas mileage will be better, driveability
    will be better. The downside is that depending on the enigne, you may
    have to buy a higher grade of fuel especially in hot weather.
     
    Steve, May 3, 2007
    #26
  7. powrwrap

    powrwrap Guest

    Sorry, I'm too analytical for that <g>
     
    powrwrap, May 3, 2007
    #27
  8. powrwrap

    powrwrap Guest


    Thank you. This is the type of information I'm looking for to try to
    solve this mysterious problem. When the problem occurs it occurs at
    about the same time/distance in my wife's drive to work. So it would
    seem to be temperature related. What could the knock sensor be hearing
    at the point the engine finally gets fully warmed up that tricks it
    into sending a signal to the PCM?

    Again, thanks for the info. Based on your response I can only conclude
    that the knock sensor is on vehicles so they can run the engines on
    the lowest quality fuel. Otherwise, they are what is known as a "whee"
    part, you know, you take it off the vehicle, throw it over your
    shoulder and exclaim "WHEE!!" making everything better.
     
    powrwrap, May 3, 2007
    #28
  9. powrwrap

    Some O Guest

    OK, here's an update. A few weeks ago I did a more thorough cleaning
    of the throttle body area. I also tossed a can of Sea Foam in the gas
    tank. Wife reported no drivability problems--there was no one time
    jerk with the Check Engine Light flashing on--until yesterday when she
    said it jerked once at highway speed (she didn't notice if light came
    on or not).

    Today I went to a Chrysler dealer and got a copy of service bulletin
    18-34-98. It accurately describes our problem. I'm stunned that the
    solution is to disconnect and REMOVE AND DISCARD the knock sensor. Not
    replace, but remove and discard.

    If the wife reports the engine jerking problem again, I will
    disconnect the knock sensor and have her drive it to see if the
    problem goes away. However, seems to me I will have another problem,
    namely the potential for pinging and a constantly lit up Check Engine
    Light. Won't the loss of the knock sensor cause drivability problems,
    pinging, loss of gas mileage, etc., esp. in Minnesota with its wide
    temperature swings? Why don't they recommend replacing the knock
    sensor?[/QUOTE]

    Obviously the knock sensor function is flawed and there is no fix.
    Just use the correct fuel and you should be OK.
     
    Some O, May 3, 2007
    #29
  10. powrwrap

    powrwrap Guest

    It appears to be as you say. Now I'm wondering how long Chrysler has
    been putting useless parts on their engines? In other words, did they
    continue using this same knock sensor set-up for subsequent years?
     
    powrwrap, May 3, 2007
    #30
  11. powrwrap

    bllsht Guest

    Analytical and anal are not the same thing.
     
    bllsht, May 4, 2007
    #31
  12. powrwrap

    powrwrap Guest

    Interesting that anal is the root word for analytical though, is it
    not? <g>
     
    powrwrap, May 4, 2007
    #32
  13. powrwrap

    Steve Guest

    No, newer ones are much better. Its not so much the sensor as the signal
    processing that follows it to separate unrelated engine noises from real
    detonation sounds. Newer signal processing, for example, eliminates
    sounds that occur at crankshaft positions that couldn't possibly be due
    to detonation. There's a lot more to it than that, but I don't know what
    all else they do.
     
    Steve, May 4, 2007
    #33
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