BUYING 84 N.Y'R REAR WHL DRIVE??

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by GABOY, Jul 13, 2004.

  1. GABOY

    GABOY Guest

    I have the opportunity to purchase a nice gold 84 fifth ave New Yorker
    w/75,000 mi.

    Any opinions, things to look for or suggestions. It just made a trip from
    Tenn (300 mi.) w/no problems. Needs headliner, A/C charge.
     
    GABOY, Jul 13, 2004
    #1
  2. GABOY

    Black Bomb Guest

    Can't go wrong with a rear wheel drive 8 cyl....If you live in a snowy
    climate, winters may give you bad traction...Good Luck...
     
    Black Bomb, Jul 15, 2004
    #2
  3. GABOY

    Art Guest

    Needs to be checked by a mechanic if you are departing with significant
    money to buy it. For example, AC repair could be much more expensive than
    just a charge. Engine could be worn out too and you would not know it.
     
    Art, Jul 15, 2004
    #3
  4. GABOY

    Steve Guest

    1980s vintage M-body Mopars (Fifth Avenue, NYer, Gran Fury, and
    Diplomat) are among the most under-appreciated cars ever made. Mopar
    fans at the time didn't like them because they replaced the much-loved
    B-body and A-body with a single class of car AND they had the wierd
    front suspension from the Volare and Aspen. Other people didn't like
    them because the styling was simple and boxy. And the automotive press
    HATED them because they were rear-drive, solid-axle, carbureted V8 and
    6-cylinder cars instead of "high tech" turbocharged front-wheel drives.

    But they turned out to be brutally rugged and reliable- my vote for the
    best "everyday cars" made between 1978 and 1993. The K-cars and their
    derivatives like the Shadow, Sundance, FWD LeBaron, and so on don't even
    come close to being as simple to maintain, simple to work on, and
    long-lived. And of course very little from GM or Ford in that era came
    close to the K-cars, so its not even a contest there.
     
    Steve, Jul 15, 2004
    #4
  5. Uh...*tilt*.

    Steve, I'm not aware of your ever having owned any of the K-derivatives.
    They are *VASTLY* easier and less expensive to maintain, and *MUCH*
    simpler to work on than the shitmess found under the hood of an M-body.
    C'mon, think about this: A feedback carbureted engine with virtually every
    known type of throw-on/hang-on/slap-on emission control widget and device,
    and miles of vacuum hoses and wires hooking all this unreliable spaghetti
    together, versus a simple TBI or PFI system with far fewer and simpler
    components, all of which are much more easily accessed. Four spark plugs
    right up front instead of eight (four of which are a bitch to reach
    because of the air pump lines, the brake booster, etc.). The list goes on
    and on of ways in which the K-derivs are vastly easier to service and
    maintain than the M-bodies. There may be a couple counterexamples, but not
    many.

    I know you like the M-bodies, but let's try to be a little more evenhanded
    about the matter -- they are very, very far from perfect. Their body
    hardware is cheap and nasty, every last bit of it, just like it was on
    most every other Chrysler product of the day. Stuff breaks and falls apart
    on the M-bodies in ways that you just don't see on later ('90-up)
    K-derivatives. Sure, the engine and trans will run "several forevers" in
    the M-body, maybe just one single "forever" with the K-deriv, but crap
    falls off/falls apart around the running engine and trans in the M-body.

    And that's without even getting into the much better mileage and
    driveability of even a low-line 2.5 TBI K-deriv compared to that "Let's
    pretend it's perpetually 1977" carbureted M-body.

    Sorry, I do not buy your "Best everyday cars made between 1978 and 1993"
    award to the M-body.
     
    Daniel J. Stern, Jul 15, 2004
    #5
  6. The '84 is the last year with the good carburetor (Carter) and the
    less-problematic EGR system. It is an old-tech vehicle. They work fine and
    last a long time, and can be made to handle and stop better with the use
    of the cop/taxi-spec brake and suspension components. Repairs are
    generally inexpensive, as is insurance.

    Don't pay too much for it.

    DS
     
    Daniel J. Stern, Jul 17, 2004
    #6
  7. GABOY

    GABOY Guest

    Well, thta is some of the feedback I am trying to get!

    What do you think f $500 bucks for a rust, dent free, with very good paint
    that neds only the headliner & Ac repairs?
    Thanks
    louis
     
    GABOY, Jul 18, 2004
    #7
  8. GABOY

    Steve Guest

    If you don't buy it for THAT, then I will!
     
    Steve, Jul 18, 2004
    #8
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