A604-41TE Amsoil synthetic versus ATF+3 Mpoar 7176 ??

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by Tom Muller, May 28, 2004.

  1. Tom Muller

    Tom Muller Guest

    Hi, I live in a warm climate where summer gets up to 38 deg C and mid winter
    only 12 deg C. Since most automatic transmission failures are caused by heat
    and i need to replace the fluid is it OK to use AMSOIL synthetic (1992
    Plymouth Voyager 328000km's) The product is more expensive but would
    probably last twice as long? Below is an extract from Amsoil:

    Chrysler has been recommending their "ATF +" series for some time. Each
    manufacturer has specific requirements and preferences when it comes to
    automatic transmission fluids.
    But with all of these different requirements mandating different fluid
    types, it becomes much more difficult for Dealers and Retailers to market
    ATF to auto owners. AMSOIL has designed an ATF that can cover all of the
    major auto manufacturers' specifications and even those of most foreign and
    specialty manufacturers as well. The new AMSOIL ATF is the only fluid in
    the world which can cover all of the various auto applications that
    automatic transmission fluids are designed for.AMSOIL ATF is also highly
    resistant to thermal breakdown and oxidation.AMSOIL ATF can actually deliver
    up to three to five times the service life of petroleum fluid and can resist
    up to four times the temperature.

    Hope this stirs up some debate.
     
    Tom Muller, May 28, 2004
    #1
  2. No, it is not OK to use Scamsoil synthetic, which does *not* meet the
    correct fluid spec for your van.
    No, Chrysler has been *requiring* ATF+ for some time, and the newest fluid
    is ATF+4. Do not be scammed by glossy ads claiming a non-spec fluid such
    as Amsoil is "better" or "meets every spec". There is no such thing as a
    universal automatic transmission fluid -- the specs are all *different*
    from one another; it's not a question of this one being better than that
    one being better than the other one.

    USE THE CORRECT FLUID or you will wish that you had.
    Bullshit.

    -Stern
     
    Daniel J. Stern, May 28, 2004
    #2
  3. Tom Muller

    Steve Guest

    It is absolutely NOT alright. Only ATF+3 or +4 qualified fluids are
    acceptable for your transmission. Any other type fluid lacks the
    friction modifiers that are necessary for the operation of the torque
    convertor lockup clutch in these transmissions. The TCCLC must operate
    in a partially-locked mode for extended periods of time in 2nd, 3rd, and
    4th gears, and without the proper modifiers it will "shudder" during
    operation, and eventually fail as a result (if you're fillings don't
    rattle out first).

    Since your vehicle is a '92 its perfectly acceptable to use any one of
    at least a half-dozen aftermarket brands of ATF+3 (Coastal, Exxon,
    Pennzoil, Quaker State, and many others). If it were a vehicle that
    required ATF+4, only Chrysler dealers currently carry that blend.

    Since ATF+4 is fully synthetic and +3 lasts about as well as a
    synthetic, it is also untrue that the Amsoil would "last twice as long."
    But it wouldn't matter, because the transmission wouldn't last long
    enough to find out.
     
    Steve, May 28, 2004
    #3
  4. AMSOIL claims to be ATF + compatible and Dexron compatible and
    I think even Type F compatible. All have quite different characteristics.
    The AMSOIL fluid must be able to detect what transmission it's used in
    and switch characteristics. Quite an amazing fluid. I wonder how they
    do that.
    Actually with your Voyager, ATF +3 will work just as well and is
    far cheaper. If your van's transmission is running on the factory fill
    transmission fluid, it's got ATF +3 (or +2) in it already.

    But, I never heard of a 1992 Voyager 4 speed transmission lasting 328000kms.
    Are you sure your trans isn't a 3 speed, or hasn't been rebuilt once? If
    it's a 4 speed I would bet it's been rebuilt, and there's no telling what
    fluid the rebuilder used.

    Ted
     
    Ted Mittelstaedt, May 30, 2004
    #4
  5. It's a simple yet powerful technique known as "lying".
    Far cheaper, well, OK, yeah. Work just as well? Maybe not. There's a
    fascinating SAE paper on the development of ATF+4. It contains lots of
    different performance comparisons to ATF+, +2 and +3. After reading it, I
    have zero problem paying the premium for +4; it's obviously a superior
    fluid in every way.


    -Stern
     
    Daniel J. Stern, May 30, 2004
    #5
  6. Tom Muller

    Ken Pisichko Guest

    Hi Dan.

    Cannot argue with what you wrote. Correctumundo!

    However, if in an older tranny the original specs called for "type" 3 or
    lower "type", then what will the extra $$ for "type" 4 do for the tranny?
    Does the design of the older tranny depend on more than type 3? Will it
    perform "better" when using "type" 4? Will it FOR SURE have longer life with
    "type" 4?

    It seems that in spite of a "superior" product is the extra bucks worth it?
    Some clothing is "superior" in design but that does not mean that I need to
    buy it to be "well dressed", presentable and comfortable. No definite "proof"
    just comparisons and opinions.

    Put it another way - will using "type" 3 in his older tranny DO any harm? If
    so, why does CC not state that as fact? All they state is what you say as
    "No, Chrysler has been *requiring* ATF+ for some time, and the newest fluid
    is ATF+4." Not the same as stating that any "older "type" WILL be harmful.
    Not exactly straight shooting. Kinda like the advertising hype some
    marketeers use.

    In my '84 Voyager the diff bearings started making noise after 200,000 kms.
    Now with 275,000 km it is time for a rebuild. The "donor" core and torque
    converter are both sitting waiting for the two-week time block in our
    schedule to complete this project. Not sure if the Voyager's tranny is
    original, but if it is (any I have seen 3-speeds with that mileage) don't
    believe than ANY ATF (and that includes Scramsol) would have extended it's
    life. I mean it is 20 years old with lots of highway (and non-towing) kms on
    it. I know "type" 4 ATF won't be used in that rebuild simply because there is
    NO data that I can find to show that anything better than the readily
    available "type" 3 will harm the tranny (aka reduce it's performance and life
    span).

    Yes, I know, I am talking now about the 3-speed '84 and not the OP's '92
    which has over 300,000 kms. No matter what the OP used for fluid, the tranny
    is obviously being taken care of IF the +300,000 kms are on an original
    tranny

    Ken
     
    Ken Pisichko, May 30, 2004
    #6
  7. http://www.sae.org/servlets/productDetail?PROD_TYP=PAPER&PROD_CD=982674

    Spend the $10; download the paper. It's fascinating reading.
    No, but the new fluid will offer better lubrication, more
    consistent frictional characteristics, better retention of
    characteristics over a larger temperature range--all things that
    tend to improve a transmission's lifespan.
    Well, no, probably not, but your 3-speed trans is not *nearly* as
    sensitive to fluid frictional characteristics as is the 4-speed.

    Your question of "will it do harm to use the older fluid?" seems kinda
    backwards to me...like saying "The owner's manual for my 1979 Caprice
    Classic says I should use API SD engine oil. I can get that by the case
    down at the cut-price auto parts store on the edge of town. Sure, I could
    skip right over SE, SF, SG, SH, SJ, SK and go directly to the newest SL
    oil from the regular parts place. It's better oil, no doubt, but my manual
    says I should use SD, so what harm will it do?"

    -Stern
     
    Daniel J. Stern, May 30, 2004
    #7
  8. Tom Muller

    Ken Pisichko Guest

    :

    I snipped the previous part but note that one paper in and of itself may be
    fascinating reading, but any researcher knows that one study is NOT conclusive.
    If several papers have replicatable findings then that is good. One paper in
    and of itself is interesting reading and food for thought (and more
    research/experimenting).
    True! OTOH, if the OP's tranny with 328,000 kms on it is a 4-speed then it is
    indeed living on borrowed time. How much longer is not for us to say.
    Trouble with this last statement of yours is that all the engine oils currently
    sold have the latest specs. At least here where I live. I don't know if SD oil
    is still being sold. I note that the last case of oil I bought in December (at
    Oil Mart) for my wife's '83 Volvo GL with about 400,000 kms on the engine and
    tranny is Havoline 10W-30 service rated as SL, SJ, SH. The older ratings are
    not available here. In summer I use URSA 15W-40 with the same ratings.
    Changing the oil and filter religiously every 5000 km has done more to enhance"
    the engine's lifespan than any oil. Just my opinion. 400,000 kms is what I'd
    like to get from my CC engine in my Voyager :)

    OTOH, if the older ratings are available, suitable and quite a bit less
    expensive, then obviously ... This seems to be the case with ATF+3 and ATF+4.
    Both ratings are available. If it makes you feel good to put in the best oil
    money can buy, then by all means do whatever you please. However, that does not
    necessarily help longevity. Regular (appropriate) oil and filter changes have
    more to do with longevity than just putting in the "best" oil money can buy.
    Naturally, spending money is one's own responsibility. Putting in more than you
    need into a tranny/engine with over 300,000 kms is not in itself going to
    enhance longevity any more than taking vitamin pills in and of itself is going
    to extend the lifespan of my 85 year old mother. Clearly other factors must
    also be addressed to extend the lifespan of the OP's vehicle, and that includes
    appropriate filter and ATF changes. Wanna spend the extra money? Put in a
    large(er) ATF external cooler.
     
    Ken Pisichko, May 30, 2004
    #8
  9. Except that it's not a "study" and it's not trying to "conclude" anything.

    Stop assuming. Go read.
    Sounds like you only shop at fancy-pants parts stores and big-boxes.
    Ever been to Eugene, OR? There's a town next to it, Springfield. Just over
    the Eugene-Springfield line is Brooks' Cut Rate Auto Parts. Yes, it's cute
    that Mr. Brooks' store name acronymizes "C.R.A.P." They have the
    current-spec oils, but they also have pallets upon pallets of old-spec
    stuff. Saw SD oil by the case, in new-old-stock cans, just a few years
    ago.
    ....not. Newer oil = better oil = longer engine life. Using the best
    available oil within reasonable price range, and not just the bare
    acceptable minimum, is a no-brainer.

    Unless, of course, you buy into the whole pile of "use it up and throw it
    away, then buy a new one" crapola, like a good little consumer...

    -Stern
     
    Daniel J. Stern, May 31, 2004
    #9
  10. Tom Muller

    Ken Pisichko Guest

    When all else fails, flame away. Or at the very least use subtle ridicule.

    I don't have the $$ to spend on the study/research paper. Frankly the $12 US
    dollars is used for other things that are more important than getting into an
    "I am smarter than you" dialogue of the deaf.

    Dan, YOU ARE SMARTER THAN ME!! Got it? I have taken your advice before, but
    this time you have gone too far.

    What is the paper you refer to if not a "study"? Is it a comic book? Does it
    give results at least, if no conclusions (as you state)? If not conclusive,
    then it is obviously INconclusive and not worth reading. How about putting a
    pdf copy available for public scrutiny instead of just saying trust me and
    spend the $10. Besides, the $10 is false! Unless you are a member, you spend
    more. If you are a member you spend less.

    Don't let me get nasty for I do admit you are smarter than me. Not sure about
    your smartness as compared to anyone else though ....

    Happy now, with my public accolade and acknowledgment? I hope so, for you
    deserve it.

    I don't give a rat's ass what oil or ATF is available in Eugene Oregon, or in
    Dakka, Bangladesh, or anywhere else. Several years ago my farming relatives
    had that same oil in "45 gal" drums. Big deal. I told you what oil is
    available in Winnipeg - here and now, NOT there and then. I really don't know
    where you get into the diatribe about me buying parts at "fancy-pants parts
    stores and big-boxes." Don't these two types of establishments sell good oil?
    If not, why are they in business? I buy oil at a lubricant warehouse that just
    sells lubricants and Hastings filters. The place is called Oil Mart. Name
    brand oils, lubes and filters. Nothing fancy about that place except their
    customer service. Their Shell Rotella is a bit too expensive for me now that
    they don't sell the dino version, so I buy pails of URSA and the occasional
    case of Havoline. Right now I use Texaco oils with the ratings shown in my
    previous post. I am not going to buy recycled oil because I simply don't want
    to. The additive package is not good enough to be called 200 hr oil. URSA has
    that package. I am not sure of the Havoline being a 200 hr oil, but it was all
    they had at the time... As for C.R.A.P., what does this have to do with
    anything about oil available here? I am happy that you know the location of
    such places. Good for you, but so what? It is similar to comparing the price
    of gasoline here with the price in Boca Raton or Alice Springs. So what?

    Yes Dan, you are smarter than me. Make sure you keep that in mind when you
    pontificate. Anyways, I don't mind being talked down to. Others may, but I
    don't. In the kind of work I do I have become quite used to it. However,
    putting ATF+3 oil into any tranny with 328,000 km or even 287,000 km on it
    won't make a rats ass difference on further longevity and performance as
    compared to putting in ATF+4, NO MATTER what you say. Throw the $$ away and
    use whatever you want. Longevity will NOT be enhanced. Not at 328,000km, nor
    at 287,000km. NO WAY! You have NO PROOF! Period! Another no-brainer! I don't
    care whose '92 chrysler automatic transmission it is, there is not a rats ass
    difference between ATF+3 and ATF+4 at those kilometers. If it MAKES a
    difference at those kilometers, state the definitive source and copy the words
    here with appropriate citations. Not just ONE paper, but replicated results.
    I repeat, replicated results noit just one study. One study means pilch in the
    total scheme of things. Perhaps the findings/conclusions in 1 study were a
    fluke. How did they deal with controlled variables or did they deal with them?
    No way of knowing if they were a fluke until replicated studies are done
    independently. That is CORRECT research. Since I acknowledge that you are
    smarter than me you must realize that basic premise of doing research in the
    engineering community. Only the gullible are sucked in by 1 definitive study.
    Also, forget Amsoil and other marketing hype. I think you owe this to the
    others who are reading this "discussion".

    By the way, your comment "Newer oil = better oil = longer engine life" is
    not enough. Better oil in and of itself is no panacea. Even you must admit
    that maintenance as in CHANGING the oil with appropriate filter is also
    needed. I remember the lady in one of my grad school classes who replaced the
    engine in her minivan when she did not bother to change oil or even check it's
    level. She never looked at the oil from the day she drove the brand new
    minivan off the dealer's lot in Minnetonka, Minnesota. Maintenance?? What's
    that, she wondered. Brand new oil did not help her van in and of itself, did
    it?
     
    Ken Pisichko, May 31, 2004
    #10
  11. Tom Muller

    RPhillips47 Guest

    Thanks, Ken! Your response was well worth the read. I, too, have learned to
    accept being talked down to as I work with the public all the time and it is
    just a matter of survival. Your humbleness is appreciated - I wish it was
    shared by more in this newsgroup.

    RP
     
    RPhillips47, May 31, 2004
    #11
  12. Hello everybody,

    I am new here, and I freely admit I am not an expert on lubricants, or
    auto trans axles for that matter. I 'am' a die hard FWD MOPAR enthusiast
    however, and I have an above average understanding of relevant matters to
    this topic. I am in no way affiliated with either Daimler Chrysler, or any
    lubricant blender or distributing network. I am merely a private party
    having experience with the A604/41TE4 auto transaxles.

    I have read with great interest the debate about ATF +3 and +4, verses
    Amsoil Type IV 'full synthetic' Universal ATF, and I wish to offer my
    limited knowledge and personal experience regarding this.

    I do not care *who* is "right or wrong", and neither do I care much about
    posting style. The facts are what I am concerned with. I can only offer my
    personal experience and limited knowledge, because frankly it appears
    obvious to me, that statistics and fancy numbers hold little power to
    persuade these days regarding ATF and other lubricants. Really such
    debates are just arguments driven mainly by emotion, e.g, product and
    manufacturer loyalty based upon advertising hype and corporate propaganda
    [*spin*]. The facts, so far, have taken a back seat to the forgoing,
    regarding the ATF +3 and +4 vs alternatives debate.

    Most of us are aware that for too long many if not most Transmission
    Shops, wrongly believe an A604 can handle even Dextron Mercon ATF, as long
    as a friction modifier is added. Many a sad A604 owner has learned however,
    that this is simply NOT true. But they obviously do not really know why
    this is so.

    DC has been partly to blame for these misconceptions, because their TSB's
    on this issue have been until recently, ambiguous and open to
    interpretation. In fact even now, because of this, many A604 owners are
    still unsure if ATF +4 is suitable for *their year* of A604. Or whether or
    not ATF + 4 is a 'full synthetic' Type IV PAO ATF, or just a lower grade
    'semi synthetic' Type III PAO ATF.

    I am going to try now, to avoid laying out "facts" in a way which will
    only provoke an argument. HA! riiiiiiight. Instead I will TRY to offer the
    following, which I hope will assist you as it did me, to sort out the
    *corporate spin and advertising hype* from good information.

    I have gone through two A604's, despite my tendency to to be extremely
    conscientious about maintenance issues, and I became "absolutely paranoid"
    about my A604. Religiously checking the ATF level daily, carefully
    examining the fluid on the stick, watching temp levels on my AutoMeter
    Trans temp gauge, and reading to learn about this trans axle, even talking
    face to face with a few real experts.

    As a result I became convinced that the A604/41TE4, as it is now, is a
    truly great design. It is a genuine marvel of technology. It's weakness
    has really been that existing ATF, even DC's new + 4, is simply not
    adequate to cool it and keep it free from micro-varnish. Although ATF + 4
    is a step in the right direction, it is really a type IV PAO semi
    synthetic. As such it still has impurities, *which can and will* convert
    to micro-varnish etc, and it's *viscosity index* is inferior to a 'true
    full synthetic' type IV. It can NOT cool as well as a true Type IV full
    synthetic.

    I recently did a complete flush and filter change, in an upgrade to a Type
    IV full synthetic ATF. I was going to go with Redline C+, but none was
    available in my area, and I wanted to do it before the weather here warms
    up any more than it is now. So I spoke at length with a tech at Amsoil
    named Kevin who posts on the Bob Is The Oil Guy forum. He carefully
    explained to me why their "universal" type IV full synthetic ATF, is not
    snake oil, as I thought it just "had to be". I mean, how could there be
    such a thing as a "universal" ATF?!

    OK. Cut to the chase. I had my last A604 race built last year. Alloy
    spline and planetaries, the best Kevlar clutches, a premium TC and pumps,
    welded diff pin etc, and I changed from the 'old tech' tube and fin cooler
    to a stacked plate cooler. I only used MOPAR ATF +3. Still the damned
    thing would just get too hot during "spirited street driving", and
    especially in stop and go in town. All of this just left me "sick of the
    whole thing". I was on the verge of doing the 5 speed manual swap, despite
    the high cost in time and effort because I was getting the beginning signs
    of "problems", despite all the best parts and perfect maintenance! Only 8
    months after the expensive rebuild, but *as the weather warmed up* it was
    getting a bit harder to move the handle from P to D, and 3rd was not as
    firm as it really should be. I knew the solenoid valve body was not old or
    defective, and my PRNDL switch was just fine, as were all the connections
    "down there".

    I considered going to MOPAR ATF +4, despite the fact that, as usual,
    several Chrysler service reps had different interpretations of the DC
    TSBs. No one was sure if I even should change to ATF +4, until very
    recently.

    At the advice of a trusted performance expert. I opened my mind and began
    to do research on the full synthetic alternative. I was always a, NO WAY
    JOSE Only MOPAR ATF +3 is going onto that baby, kind of person. But Joe
    has never given me bad advice, so I decided to look into what ATF +4
    really is. Thank you Joe!

    The fact the DC has NOT licensed the formula to others, as even FORD has
    their new ATF, and DC charges $25 a gallon for ATF +4, tells me that money
    is more important to them than we are. Well, OK, I love my local MOPAR
    parts man, and one dealership Service manager and dealership owner in my
    area, really is way above average. Great people. But face it, many
    dealerships are "less than trustworthy", and I do not trust Daimler at
    all, and for good reason.

    So with an open mnd this time. I looked into Amsoil. I *agonized* over it.
    I read and I read. I talked to others who had switched to type IV PAO full
    synthetic ATF. Then I did it. I put it in, and let me tell you the STUFF
    ROCKS!

    I am so glad that *I did the work*, to sort through all the hype and even
    well intended misconceptions from loyalists. For example, those who think
    that Mopar +4 is a true TYPE IV PAO full synthetic, are simply mistaken
    because it is only a TYPE III semi synthetic. Some people even think that
    ATF can somehow "sense what kind of trans it is in", and then "switch
    characteristics to meet the application". Trans fluid is not sentient. It
    senses nothing, and it can not "switch characteristics". ATF can do no
    more than behave within it's formulation parameters, and the formulation
    of a true full synthetic TYPE IV PAO fluid, is greatly superior, to any
    Type III semi synthetic. End of story.

    My A604/41TE4 now runs 20 degrees F cooler, and shifts faster and firmer.
    I don't care if it is "supposed to last longer" or not. I do NOT care if I
    have to change it every 10K miles instead of tmy old 25K change ritual
    even. It is really worth the money too.

    I know that any ATF capable of making my SVB function perfectly again, and
    enable my A604 to run cooler and shift that much better, is going to make
    my trans axle last a lot longer. All I have to do is change filters and
    pan fluid religiously, and watch my fluid level.

    Yeah, it's sort of like before; but I am not "sweating it" anymore,
    because of the way my TRANS performs now. On a hot day, in stop and go
    traffic it no longer gets hot, and that lever easily and smoothly moves
    from P to D, even when I first start my engine. All just like it did the
    day it was race rebuilt.

    OK. Now I am out of here. I am not going to argue irrelevant semantic
    points, and fend spin from well intended, lovable but misguided loyalists.
    I have given you good and honest advice. Call the Amsoil people yourself,
    and at least actually use some logic regarding this issue. In short. Open
    your mind and consider the facts for yourself. I will leave it to you to
    do that.

    I just could not remain silent and let the BS rule on this subject. Amsoil
    is not snake oil. I am not going to become a distributer, but I have
    cleared my conscience, and my HOT 3.0 FWD MOPAR, now rocks even more than
    it did before.

    Best wishes to all of you.
     
    fwd_moparasambuku, Jun 5, 2005
    #12
  13. Hello everybody,

    I am new here, and I freely admit I am not an expert on lubricants, or
    auto trans axles for that matter. I 'am' a die hard FWD MOPAR enthusiast
    however, and I have an above average understanding of relevant matters to
    this topic. I am in no way affiliated with either Daimler Chrysler, or any
    lubricant blender or distributing network. I am merely a private party
    having experience with the A604/41TE4 auto transaxles.

    I have read with great interest the debate about ATF +3 and +4, verses
    Amsoil Type IV 'full synthetic' Universal ATF, and I wish to offer my
    limited knowledge and personal experience regarding this.

    I do not care *who* is "right or wrong", and neither do I care much about
    posting style. The facts are what I am concerned with. I can only offer my
    personal experience and limited knowledge, because frankly it appears
    obvious to me, that statistics and fancy numbers hold little power to
    persuade these days regarding ATF and other lubricants. Really such
    debates are just arguments driven mainly by emotion, e.g, product and
    manufacturer loyalty based upon advertising hype and corporate propaganda
    [*spin*]. The facts, so far, have taken a back seat to the forgoing,
    regarding the ATF +3 and +4 vs alternatives debate.

    Most of us are aware that for too long many if not most Transmission
    Shops, wrongly believe an A604 can handle even Dextron Mercon ATF, as long
    as a friction modifier is added. Many a sad A604 owner has learned however,
    that this is simply NOT true. But they obviously do not really know why
    this is so.

    DC has been partly to blame for these misconceptions, because their TSB's
    on this issue have been until recently, ambiguous and open to
    interpretation. In fact even now, because of this, many A604 owners are
    still unsure if ATF +4 is suitable for *their year* of A604. Or whether or
    not ATF + 4 is a 'full synthetic' Type IV PAO ATF, or just a lower grade
    'semi synthetic' Type III PAO ATF.

    I am going to try now, to avoid laying out "facts" in a way which will
    only provoke an argument. HA! riiiiiiight. Instead I will TRY to offer the
    following, which I hope will assist you as it did me, to sort out the
    *corporate spin and advertising hype* from good information.

    I have gone through two A604's, despite my tendency to to be extremely
    conscientious about maintenance issues, and I became "absolutely paranoid"
    about my A604. Religiously checking the ATF level daily, carefully
    examining the fluid on the stick, watching temp levels on my AutoMeter
    Trans temp gauge, and reading to learn about this trans axle, even talking
    face to face with a few real experts.

    As a result I became convinced that the A604/41TE4, as it is now, is a
    truly great design. It is a genuine marvel of technology. It's weakness
    has really been that existing ATF, even DC's new + 4, is simply not
    adequate to cool it and keep it free from micro-varnish. Although ATF + 4
    is a step in the right direction, it is really a type IV PAO semi
    synthetic. As such it still has impurities, *which can and will* convert
    to micro-varnish etc, and it's *viscosity index* is inferior to a 'true
    full synthetic' type IV. It can NOT cool as well as a true Type IV full
    synthetic.

    I recently did a complete flush and filter change, in an upgrade to a Type
    IV full synthetic ATF. I was going to go with Redline C+, but none was
    available in my area, and I wanted to do it before the weather here warms
    up any more than it is now. So I spoke at length with a tech at Amsoil
    named Kevin who posts on the Bob Is The Oil Guy forum. He carefully
    explained to me why their "universal" type IV full synthetic ATF, is not
    snake oil, as I thought it just "had to be". I mean, how could there be
    such a thing as a "universal" ATF?!

    OK. Cut to the chase. I had my last A604 race built last year. Alloy
    spline and planetaries, the best Kevlar clutches, a premium TC and pumps,
    welded diff pin etc, and I changed from the 'old tech' tube and fin cooler
    to a stacked plate cooler. I only used MOPAR ATF +3. Still the damned
    thing would just get too hot during "spirited street driving", and
    especially in stop and go in town. All of this just left me "sick of the
    whole thing". I was on the verge of doing the 5 speed manual swap, despite
    the high cost in time and effort because I was getting the beginning signs
    of "problems", despite all the best parts and perfect maintenance! Only 8
    months after the expensive rebuild, but *as the weather warmed up* it was
    getting a bit harder to move the handle from P to D, and 3rd was not as
    firm as it really should be. I knew the solenoid valve body was not old or
    defective, and my PRNDL switch was just fine, as were all the connections
    "down there".

    I considered going to MOPAR ATF +4, despite the fact that, as usual,
    several Chrysler service reps had different interpretations of the DC
    TSBs. No one was sure if I even should change to ATF +4, until very
    recently.

    At the advice of a trusted performance expert. I opened my mind and began
    to do research on the full synthetic alternative. I was always a, NO WAY
    JOSE Only MOPAR ATF +3 is going onto that baby, kind of person. But Joe
    has never given me bad advice, so I decided to look into what ATF +4
    really is. Thank you Joe!

    The fact the DC has NOT licensed the formula to others, as even FORD has
    their new ATF, and DC charges $25 a gallon for ATF +4, tells me that money
    is more important to them than we are. Well, OK, I love my local MOPAR
    parts man, and one dealership Service manager and dealership owner in my
    area, really is way above average. Great people. But face it, many
    dealerships are "less than trustworthy", and I do not trust Daimler at
    all, and for good reason.

    So with an open mnd this time. I looked into Amsoil. I *agonized* over it.
    I read and I read. I talked to others who had switched to type IV PAO full
    synthetic ATF. Then I did it. I put it in, and let me tell you the STUFF
    ROCKS!

    I am so glad that *I did the work*, to sort through all the hype and even
    well intended misconceptions from loyalists. For example, those who think
    that Mopar +4 is a true TYPE IV PAO full synthetic, are simply mistaken
    because it is only a TYPE III semi synthetic. Some people even think that
    ATF can somehow "sense what kind of trans it is in", and then "switch
    characteristics to meet the application". Trans fluid is not sentient. It
    senses nothing, and it can not "switch characteristics". ATF can do no
    more than behave within it's formulation parameters, and the formulation
    of a true full synthetic TYPE IV PAO fluid, is greatly superior, to any
    Type III semi synthetic. End of story.

    My A604/41TE4 now runs 20 degrees F cooler, and shifts faster and firmer.
    I don't care if it is "supposed to last longer" or not. I do NOT care if I
    have to change it every 10K miles instead of tmy old 25K change ritual
    even. It is really worth the money too.

    I know that any ATF capable of making my SVB function perfectly again, and
    enable my A604 to run cooler and shift that much better, is going to make
    my trans axle last a lot longer. All I have to do is change filters and
    pan fluid religiously, and watch my fluid level.

    Yeah, it's sort of like before; but I am not "sweating it" anymore,
    because of the way my TRANS performs now. On a hot day, in stop and go
    traffic it no longer gets hot, and that lever easily and smoothly moves
    from P to D, even when I first start my engine. All just like it did the
    day it was race rebuilt.

    OK. Now I am out of here. I am not going to argue irrelevant semantic
    points, and fend spin from well intended, lovable but misguided loyalists.
    I have given you good and honest advice. Call the Amsoil people yourself,
    and at least actually use some logic regarding this issue. In short. Open
    your mind and consider the facts for yourself. I will leave it to you to
    do that.

    I just could not remain silent and let the BS rule on this subject. Amsoil
    is not snake oil. I am not going to become a distributer, but I have
    cleared my conscience, and my HOT 3.0 FWD MOPAR, now rocks even more than
    it did before.

    Best wishes to all of you.
     
    fwd_moparasambuku, Jun 5, 2005
    #13
  14. Hello everybody,

    I am new here, and I freely admit I am not an expert on lubricants, or
    auto trans axles for that matter. I am a die hard FWD MOPAR enthusiast
    however, and I have an above average understanding of relevant matters to
    this topic. I am in no way affiliated with either Daimler Chrysler, or any
    lubricant blender or distributing network. I am merely a private party
    having experience with the A604/41TE4 auto transaxles.

    I have read with great interest the debate about ATF +3 and +4, verses
    Amsoil Type IV 'full synthetic' Universal ATF, and I wish to offer my
    limited knowledge and personal experience regarding this.

    I do not care *who* is "right or wrong", and neither do I care much about
    posting style. The facts are what I am concerned with, and I can only
    offer my personal experience and limited knowledge because frankly, it
    appears obvious to me that statistics and fancy numbers hold little power
    to persuade these days regarding ATF and other lubricants. Really such
    debates are just arguments driven mainly by emotion, e.g, product and
    manufacturer loyalty based upon advertising hype and corporate propaganda
    *spin*. The facts, so far have taken a back seat to the forgoing,
    regarding the ATF +3 and +4 vs alternatives debate.

    Most of us are aware that for too long, many if not most Transmission
    Shops wrongly believe an A604 can handle even Dextron Mercon ATF, as long
    as a friction modifier is added. Many a sad A604 owner has learned
    however, that this is simply NOT true.

    DC has been partly to blame for these misconceptions, because their TSB's
    on this issue have been until recently, ambiguous and open to
    interpretation. In fact even now, because of this, many A604 owners are
    still unsure if ATF +4 is suitable for *their year* of A604. Or whether or
    not ATF + 4 is really even a 'full synthetic' Type IV PAO ATF, or just a
    lower grade 'semi synthetic' Type III PAO ATF.

    I am going to try now, to avoid laying out "facts" in a way which will
    only provoke an argument. Instead I will offer the following, which I hope
    will assist you as it did me, to sort out the *corporate spin and
    advertising hype* from good information.

    I have gone through two A604's, despite my tendency to to be extremely
    conscientious about maintenance issues, and I became "absolutely paranoid"
    about my A604. Religiously checking the ATF level daily, carefully
    examining the fluid on the stick, watching temp levels on my AutoMeter
    Trans temp gauge, and reading to learn about this trans axle, even talking
    face to face with a few real experts. As a result I became convinced that
    the A604/41TE4, as it is now, is a great design. It is a true marvel of
    technology. It's true weakness is that existing ATF, even DC's new + 4, is
    simply not adequate to cool it and keep it free from micro-varnish.
    Although ATF + 4 is a step in the right direction, it is really a type IV
    PAO semi synthetic. As such it still has impurities, which can and will,
    convert to micro-varnish etc, and it's *viscosity index* is inferior to a
    'true full synthetic' type IV. It can NOT cool as well as a true Type IV
    full synthetic.

    I recently did a complete flush and filter change, in an upgrade to a Type
    IV full synthetic ATF. I was going to go with Redline C+, but none was
    available in my area, and I wanted to do it before the weather here warms
    up any more than it is now. So I spoke at length with a tech at Amsoil
    named Kevin who posts on the Bob Is The Oil Guy forum. He carefully
    explained to me why their "universal" type IV full synthetic ATF, is not
    snake oil, as I thought it just "had to be". I mean, how could there be
    such a thing as a "universal" ATF?!

    OK. Cut to the chase. I had my last A604 race built last year. Alloy
    spline and planetaries, the best Kevlar clutches, a premium TC and pumps,
    welded diff pin etc, and I changed from the 'old tech' tube and fin cooler
    to a stacked plate cooler. I only used MOPAR ATF +3. Still the damned
    thing would just get too hot during "spirited street driving", and
    especially in stop and go in town. All of this just left me "sick of the
    whole thing". I was on the verge of doing the 5 speed manual swap, despite
    the high cost in time and effort because I was getting the beginning signs
    of "problems", despite all the best parts and perfect maintenance! Only 8
    months after the expensive rebuild, and it was getting a bit harder to
    move the handle from P to D, and 3rd was not as firm as it really should
    be. I knew the solenoid valve body was not old or defective, and my PRNDL
    switch was just fine, as were all the connections "down there".

    I considered going to MOPAR ATF +4, despite the fact that several Chrysler
    service reps had different interpretations of the DC TSBs. No one was sure
    if I even should change to ATF +4, until very recently. At the advice of a
    trusted performance expert.. I began to do research on the full synthetic
    alternative. I was a NO WAY JOSE! Only MOPAR ATF +3 is going onto that
    baby kind of person. But Joe has never given me bad advice, so I decided
    to look into what ATF +4 really is.

    The fact the DC has NOT licensed the formula to others, as even FORD has
    their new ATF, and DC charges $25 a gallon for ATF +4. Well, OK, I love my
    local MOPAR parts man, and one dealership Service manager, and the
    dealership owner in my are is way above average. Great people. But face
    it, many dealerships are "less than trustworthy", and I do not trust
    Daimler at all, for good reason.

    So with an open mnd this time. I looked into Amsoil. I *agonized* over it.
    I read and I read. I talked to others who had switched to type IV PAO full
    synthetic ATF. Then I did it. I put it in, and let me tell you the STUFF
    ROCKS!

    I am so glad that *I did the work*, to sort through all the hype and even
    well intended misconceptions from loyalists. For example, those who think
    that Mopar +4 is a true TYPE IV PAO full synthetic, are simply mistaken
    because it is only a TYPE III semi synthetic. Some people even think that
    ATF can somehow "sense what kind of trans it is in", and then "switch
    characteristics to meet the application". Trans fluid is not sentient. It
    sense nothing. ATF can do no more than behave within it's formulation
    parameters, and the formulation of a true full synthetic TYPE IV PAO
    fluid, is greatly superior to any Type III semi synthetic. End of story.

    My A604/41TE4 now runs 20 degrees F cooler, and shifts faster and firmer.
    I don't care if it is "supposed to last longer" or not. I do NOT care if I
    have to change it every 10K miles instead of tmy old 25K change ritual
    even. I know that any ATF capable of making my SVB function perfectly
    again, and enable my A604 to run cooler and shift that much better, is
    going to make my trans axle last a lot longer. All I have to do is change
    filters and pan fluid religiously, and watch my fluid level. Yeah, it's
    sort of like before. But I am not "sweating it" anymore, because of the
    way my TRANS performs now. On a hot day, in stop and go traffic it will no
    longer gets hot, and that lever easily and smoothly moves from P to D even
    when I first start my engine, like it did the day it was race rebuilt.

    OK. Now I am out of here. I am not going to argue irrelevant semantic
    points, and fend spin from well intended, lovable but misguided loyalists.
    I have given you good and honest advice. Call the Amsoil people yourself,
    and at least actually use some logic regarding this issue. In short. Open
    your mind. I just could not remain silent and let the BS rule on this
    subject. Amsoil is not snake oil. I am not going to become a distributer,
    but I have cleared my conscience, and my ht 3.0 MOPAR now rocks even more
    than it did before.

    Best wishes to all of you.
     
    fwd_moparasambuku, Jun 5, 2005
    #14
  15. Hello everybody,

    I am new here, and I freely admit I am not an expert on lubricants, or
    auto trans axles for that matter. I am a die hard FWD MOPAR enthusiast
    however, and I have an above average understanding of relevant matters to
    this topic. I am in no way affiliated with either Daimler Chrysler, or any
    lubricant blender or distributing network. I am merely a private party
    having experience with the A604/41TE4 auto transaxles.

    I have read with great interest the debate about ATF +3 and +4, verses
    Amsoil Type IV 'full synthetic' Universal ATF, and I wish to offer my
    limited knowledge and personal experience regarding this.

    I do not care *who* is "right or wrong", and neither do I care much about
    posting style. The facts are what I am concerned with, and I can only
    offer my personal experience and limited knowledge because frankly, it
    appears obvious to me that statistics and fancy numbers hold little power
    to persuade these days regarding ATF and other lubricants. Really such
    debates are just arguments driven mainly by emotion, e.g, product and
    manufacturer loyalty based upon advertising hype and corporate propaganda
    *spin*. The facts, so far have taken a back seat to the forgoing,
    regarding the ATF +3 and +4 vs alternatives debate.

    Most of us are aware that for too long, many if not most Transmission
    Shops wrongly believe an A604 can handle even Dextron Mercon ATF, as long
    as a friction modifier is added. Many a sad A604 owner has learned
    however, that this is simply NOT true.

    DC has been partly to blame for these misconceptions, because their TSB's
    on this issue have been until recently, ambiguous and open to
    interpretation. In fact even now, because of this, many A604 owners are
    still unsure if ATF +4 is suitable for *their year* of A604. Or whether or
    not ATF + 4 is really even a 'full synthetic' Type IV PAO ATF, or just a
    lower grade 'semi synthetic' Type III PAO ATF.

    I am going to try now, to avoid laying out "facts" in a way which will
    only provoke an argument. Instead I will offer the following, which I hope
    will assist you as it did me, to sort out the *corporate spin and
    advertising hype* from good information.

    I have gone through two A604's, despite my tendency to to be extremely
    conscientious about maintenance issues, and I became "absolutely paranoid"
    about my A604. Religiously checking the ATF level daily, carefully
    examining the fluid on the stick, watching temp levels on my AutoMeter
    Trans temp gauge, and reading to learn about this trans axle, even talking
    face to face with a few real experts. As a result I became convinced that
    the A604/41TE4, as it is now, is a great design. It is a true marvel of
    technology. It's true weakness is that existing ATF, even DC's new + 4, is
    simply not adequate to cool it and keep it free from micro-varnish.
    Although ATF + 4 is a step in the right direction, it is really a type IV
    PAO semi synthetic. As such it still has impurities, which can and will,
    convert to micro-varnish etc, and it's *viscosity index* is inferior to a
    'true full synthetic' type IV. It can NOT cool as well as a true Type IV
    full synthetic.

    I recently did a complete flush and filter change, in an upgrade to a Type
    IV full synthetic ATF. I was going to go with Redline C+, but none was
    available in my area, and I wanted to do it before the weather here warms
    up any more than it is now. So I spoke at length with a tech at Amsoil
    named Kevin who posts on the Bob Is The Oil Guy forum. He carefully
    explained to me why their "universal" type IV full synthetic ATF, is not
    snake oil, as I thought it just "had to be". I mean, how could there be
    such a thing as a "universal" ATF?!

    OK. Cut to the chase. I had my last A604 race built last year. Alloy
    spline and planetaries, the best Kevlar clutches, a premium TC and pumps,
    welded diff pin etc, and I changed from the 'old tech' tube and fin cooler
    to a stacked plate cooler. I only used MOPAR ATF +3. Still the damned
    thing would just get too hot during "spirited street driving", and
    especially in stop and go in town. All of this just left me "sick of the
    whole thing". I was on the verge of doing the 5 speed manual swap, despite
    the high cost in time and effort because I was getting the beginning signs
    of "problems", despite all the best parts and perfect maintenance! Only 8
    months after the expensive rebuild, and it was getting a bit harder to
    move the handle from P to D, and 3rd was not as firm as it really should
    be. I knew the solenoid valve body was not old or defective, and my PRNDL
    switch was just fine, as were all the connections "down there".

    I considered going to MOPAR ATF +4, despite the fact that several Chrysler
    service reps had different interpretations of the DC TSBs. No one was sure
    if I even should change to ATF +4, until very recently. At the advice of a
    trusted performance expert.. I began to do research on the full synthetic
    alternative. I was a NO WAY JOSE! Only MOPAR ATF +3 is going onto that
    baby kind of person. But Joe has never given me bad advice, so I decided
    to look into what ATF +4 really is.

    The fact the DC has NOT licensed the formula to others, as even FORD has
    their new ATF, and DC charges $25 a gallon for ATF +4. Well, OK, I love my
    local MOPAR parts man, and one dealership Service manager, and the
    dealership owner in my are is way above average. Great people. But face
    it, many dealerships are "less than trustworthy", and I do not trust
    Daimler at all, for good reason.

    So with an open mnd this time. I looked into Amsoil. I *agonized* over it.
    I read and I read. I talked to others who had switched to type IV PAO full
    synthetic ATF. Then I did it. I put it in, and let me tell you the STUFF
    ROCKS!

    I am so glad that *I did the work*, to sort through all the hype and even
    well intended misconceptions from loyalists. For example, those who think
    that Mopar +4 is a true TYPE IV PAO full synthetic, are simply mistaken
    because it is only a TYPE III semi synthetic. Some people even think that
    ATF can somehow "sense what kind of trans it is in", and then "switch
    characteristics to meet the application". Trans fluid is not sentient. It
    sense nothing. ATF can do no more than behave within it's formulation
    parameters, and the formulation of a true full synthetic TYPE IV PAO
    fluid, is greatly superior to any Type III semi synthetic. End of story.

    My A604/41TE4 now runs 20 degrees F cooler, and shifts faster and firmer.
    I don't care if it is "supposed to last longer" or not. I do NOT care if I
    have to change it every 10K miles instead of tmy old 25K change ritual
    even. I know that any ATF capable of making my SVB function perfectly
    again, and enable my A604 to run cooler and shift that much better, is
    going to make my trans axle last a lot longer. All I have to do is change
    filters and pan fluid religiously, and watch my fluid level. Yeah, it's
    sort of like before. But I am not "sweating it" anymore, because of the
    way my TRANS performs now. On a hot day, in stop and go traffic it will no
    longer gets hot, and that lever easily and smoothly moves from P to D even
    when I first start my engine, like it did the day it was race rebuilt.

    OK. Now I am out of here. I am not going to argue irrelevant semantic
    points, and fend spin from well intended, lovable but misguided loyalists.
    I have given you good and honest advice. Call the Amsoil people yourself,
    and at least actually use some logic regarding this issue. In short. Open
    your mind. I just could not remain silent and let the BS rule on this
    subject. Amsoil is not snake oil. I am not going to become a distributer,
    but I have cleared my conscience, and my ht 3.0 MOPAR now rocks even more
    than it did before.

    Best wishes to all of you.
     
    fwd_moparasambuku, Jun 5, 2005
    #15
  16. Sorry about the double post. When it didn;t appear, I thought I
    accidentally hit reset, instead of post.

    Please delete the second one.
     
    fwd_moparasambuku, Jun 5, 2005
    #16
  17. Tom Muller

    Matt Whiting Guest

    Actually, there were four posts, not too. And you did at best a
    mediocre job of packaging the AMSOIL "corporate spin" into a post that
    was supposed to appear to be from an "average Joe" just wanting to do
    the world a favor. The only thing worse than AMSOIL spam is 4X AMSOIL
    spam. Try again when you learn something more about both lubricants and
    posting on usenet.


    Matt
     
    Matt Whiting, Jun 5, 2005
    #17
  18. Yes. I see now there were four replies, and not just two. I already
    apologized, but just to make you happy. I apologize again. LOL!

    I also see you can count to four. Please count these also then.

    1. I am not a liar.

    2. I honestly have nothing to do with amsoil.

    3. Cynicism is one thing, but *trolling* may be a better word to describe
    your post.

    Go ahead and pay Daimler full synthetic prices for their semi synthetic +4
    garbage. It's no skin off my nose.
     
    fwd_moparasambuku, Jun 6, 2005
    #18
  19. Yes. I see now there were four replies, and not just two. I already
    apologized, but just to make you happy. I apologize again. LOL!

    I also see you can count to four. Please count these also then.

    1. I am not a liar.

    2. I honestly have nothing to do with amsoil.

    3. Cynicism is one thing, but *trolling* may be a better word to describe
    your post.

    Go ahead and pay Daimler full synthetic prices for their semi synthetic +4
    garbage. It's no skin off my nose.
     
    fwd_moparasambuku, Jun 6, 2005
    #19
  20. Tom Muller

    Richard Guest

    So now +4 is garbage.

    Richard.
     
    Richard, Jun 6, 2005
    #20
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