99 T & C Air conditioning problem

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by Frank Boettcher, Oct 18, 2006.

  1. The AC on my '99 T & C, with rear air, after seven years of excellent
    service has finally developed a problem. System stopped cooling at
    the beginning of the summer. Took it to a non dealer service center
    and they evacuated and recharged. Worked fine for two months then
    gradually stopped cooling.

    So Im assuming it has a system leak.

    How do you go about locating the leak?
    If it is one of the major components that is leaking, would a scan
    tool diagnose the problem? Does the HVAC system have its own computer?

    Frank
     
    Frank Boettcher, Oct 18, 2006
    #1
  2. Frank Boettcher

    MT-2500 Guest

    A good repair shop can check for proper feron charge and run a leak
    test and find the leak.
    Some scan tool will pick up low freon.
    But the proper way ia a pressure gauge test on low and high side with
    these.

    http://tinyurl.com/jt94c

    http://tinyurl.com/qvn5k

    http://tinyurl.com/q2h9j
     
    MT-2500, Oct 18, 2006
    #2
  3. Frank Boettcher

    maxpower Guest

    The best way to locate all leaks is by doing a dye test. More the likely the
    evaporator is what is leaking, a common problem for this vehicle

    Glenn Beasley
    Chrysler Tech
     
    maxpower, Oct 19, 2006
    #3
  4. Thanks

    I'm assuming there are two evaporators with rear air. Is the front
    the most likely to be at fault? And can the dye check detect it
    without exposing it or is it process of elimination if no other leaks
    are detected? I'm led to believe it is hard to get to, therefore
    expensive to change out.

    Frank
     
    Frank Boettcher, Oct 19, 2006
    #4
  5. Frank Boettcher

    DeserTBoB Guest

    Correct assumptions all.
     
    DeserTBoB, Oct 19, 2006
    #5
  6. Frank Boettcher

    damnnickname Guest

    Due to debris such as leaves and other trash falling into the cowl and
    entering the heater box the front evaporator normally fails. The rear evap
    is not exposed to these elements.
    A dye test is used to basically check all outside fittings and components.
    The front evaporator is under the dash and in order to see if it is where
    the leak is coming from you would need to use the special lite to look at
    the a/c drain for signs of dye.
    Alot of times this will not show up and the evap fin temperature sensor
    will need to be removed to get a peek into the housing where the evap
    sits. Make sure if you use this dye you dont forget to check the condensor
    for leaks

    Glenn Beasley
    Chrysler Tech
     
    damnnickname, Oct 19, 2006
    #6
  7. Frank Boettcher

    NewMan Guest

    On my old 1994 GC, there was a small leak in the A/C system. My shop
    put an additive into the system which will plug small leaks. It worked
    like a charm! We figure the leak was in the condesor (under the
    dash!$$$), but after adding the stop leak to the system, all was well.

    That was done over 3 years ago and the A/C was still working just fine
    when the van was totalled in an accident.
     
    NewMan, Oct 19, 2006
    #7
  8. Frank Boettcher

    Bob Shuman Guest

    For clarification, the condenser is in front of the radiator under the hood.
    The evaporator, as noted in previous email in this thread, is located inside
    the passenger compartment under the dash. One is fairly simple to replace
    while the other is a PITA.

    Bob
     
    Bob Shuman, Oct 19, 2006
    #8
  9. Frank Boettcher

    philthy Guest

    or can look at a known problem area yourself
    open glove box and drop it down out of the way you will see a black rubber plug in the
    side of a black plastic case pull it outward with out damaging wire and look inside hole
    with a bright lite if you see a black like oil film on the bottom of the evap coil then
    your evap is no good and leaking
    there is also issues with rear ac./heat systems leaking at the rear connections and pipes
    again oil film show up easily
     
    philthy, Oct 19, 2006
    #9
  10. Frank Boettcher

    NewMan Guest

    My Bad.

    Thanks Bob.

     
    NewMan, Oct 20, 2006
    #10
  11. dropped the glove box and see the plug, trapezoid shaped, has an
    electrical connection fixed to the outside of the plug. Can the
    connection be disconnected to take a look and then reconnected without
    any issues? plug will not come out far enough with it connected and I
    don't want to dislodge or damage the wiring or sensor. With it
    disconnected it appears the plug will pivot down and the sensor side
    wiring will not be stressed. I can tell from cracking it open that
    the evaporator is back there but can't get a good look at the
    bottom.

    Frank
     
    Frank Boettcher, Oct 20, 2006
    #11
  12. Frank Boettcher

    philthy Guest

    careful; do what yuou have to to get it out

     
    philthy, Oct 21, 2006
    #12
  13. Frank Boettcher

    Bob Snyder Guest

    Did the shop who did the recharge check for leaks prior to their work? I
    believe they are required to in most areas.

    The source of a leak can be difficult to find, and small slow leaks - like
    you may be desribing - are especially difficult. But before you begin
    tearing things apart, you should seek professional help.

    My experience with this generation minivan would have me looking more
    closely at o-ring seals and the compressor's main seal. Both tend to dry
    out and leak with age. Depending on how you use your system, infrequent use
    could be your biggest culprit.

    Where you live (you didn't say, right?) also can introduce other issues.
    Tree leaves, etc, as indicated by others posting replies, can be an issue.
    Driving a lot on gravel roads can toss rocks at the lines running to the
    rear unit and cause punctures.

    My advice remains the same: seek professional help. A good shop will
    quickly locate the leak and explain your options.

    My 2 cents.
     
    Bob Snyder, Oct 24, 2006
    #13
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