98 dodge stratus problem still !!!!!!!!

This has been an ongoing problem with my 98 dodge stratus for five months.
This experience with this car proves to me why I never want to take my car
to a mechanic unless it's absolutely necessary. Five weeks and two mechanics
later, who were both highly recommended, my car still isn't right. This car
has a brand new distributor, timing belt, water pump, EGR valve, PCV valve,
fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor, oil and
filter, coolant temp sensor and battery. The original problem started with
what I was told was a bad fuel pump. Then after that was changed, it turned
into a hard-starting, no power issue. The first mechanic told me he checked
the catalytic converter, which he never did. He also said he did vacuum
tests and changed the intake plenum gaskets, which he never did. And after
two weeks in his shop, he told me it was either my computer, distributor, or
timing belt.

Now on to the next mechanic. He had the car for three weeks. He said he did
a leak-down cylinder test, compression test, checked the timing, put in an
oxygen censor, and catalytic converter. $800 later, the car still runs
terrible at first start-up ,and now the engine is noisier than I remember it
to be. The catalytic converter made a difference, there's power getting to
the car. When my daughter and I picked up the car, I noticed the engine was
warm, so of course, it started fine and ran good all the way home. So they
must have run the car just before I got there so I could get it out of their
garage, and out of their hair .

Today when we tried to start it in our thirty degree temperatures, it will
hardly idle, and I have to keep my foot on the gas to keep it running. Once
the car warmed up, it seemed to run better and then we could shut it off and
it started right up and idled fine. Do any of you knowledgeable people out
there have any ideas where I can go look now? Perhaps the map sensor? IAC
motor? Throttle position sensor, EGR valve? All of these, from what I've
read and researched, could possibly be part of my problem. I know these can
all be tested with a volt meter, which I know how to use. I will probably
perform these tests over the weekend. All of these tests were supposed to
have been done by both of these mechanics. There are NO codes coming up at
all and forgive me if I'm coming off a bit harsh and bitter, but after this
much time and money(around $1500), my daughter's car still isn't right.
Thanks for any info or advice.

p.s. I know there are good, honest mechanics out there. I just haven't found
one yet.

 

Here's something to consider and try: It may be that an injector is
leaking down when it sits. That would explain the hard starting and
rough idle initially, then starts and runs fine, and starts fine when
off for only short time (leaky injector would empty out fuel rail over a
long sitting time, requiring fuel pump to refill and pressurize the rail
at next startup).

On some forums I have been on, if that is the problem, running a good
injector cleaner thru a couple of tanks of fuel very often is reported
to fix the problem. Techron™ or Sea Foam™ - both available at the auto
parts store - both are known to work well if that is the problem.

I hope something works for you.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

 

thanks , its' worth a try .

 

Am I getting you mixed up with someone else or was it this vehicle that you
last posted that an ignition switch fixed your problem? Sounds to me like a
temp related "choke" problem. Was the coolant temperature sensor value
checked? Does ambient temp match what coolant temp reads on a car start? If
ambient temp is really cold and coolant temp reads 200 degrees it will run
very lean and run like crap.Just because someone throws a new switch at it
does not mean it fixed the problem. Check sensor values when cold. If MAP,
TPS, COOLANT are good then look for fuel problems

Glenn

 

you are correct in that the ignition switch fixed the no start condition but
then i had the no power issue still. so the car was never really fixed
earlier.

 

since there is no codes you might have the freeze frame data looked at it may
show a pending code and what is the adapitve pids doing?
i have replaced brand new fuel pumps that failed in minutes and also in a couple
weeks after timing belt and dist . replacement was timing checked
if you question the map sensor unplug then try starting it under the conditions
and see if there is any improvements or it was worse.

 

i hear what sounds like a vacuum leak behind the heater controls. anybody
know what this could be?

 

my daughter has been driving it and it doesn't run too bad other than having
the cold startup issue now.

 

To test if it's a leaky injector (as suggested below), when you start up the
car, turn on the ignition but don't hit the starter right away -- give it a
few seconds for the fuel pump to pressurize the system (including the part
that leaked out). If this pause in the startup sequence cures the hard
starting, it tells you that the leaky injector suggestion is on target.

 

i just wanted to thank everyone for taking the time to respond to my post. i
will have time to look at this car this weekend.