98 concorde starting problems

I see. So by your own new standard, if somebody doesn't own every model and
year of the LH series they are not qualified to post to r.a.m.c.

Yet somethings are in common to piston gasoline airplanes and piston gasoline
automobiles, such as the reason for adding fuel recirculation.

Speak for yourself.....

Neither Bill nor I attempted to diagnosis anything over the Internet. I did
post excerpts from Chrysler Corporation service bulletins which referred to the
symptoms and exact model year of vehicle because I believe it can be of value to
some people.

Uh huh.

 

well to answer a few questions Ive been hit with in this post. its a
3.2L engine. and its got 98k miles on it. as for vapor lock and tsb
and all that other tech stuff, how does it apply to my car? all i’m
looking for is something i can do o have someone do to make my car
work. when the engine is running the car runs great. I wanna know how
the mild heat from the sun makes the car not run when the 500+degree
temps of the engine doesnt make a difference. or even just what is
causeing it.

 

The TSB is a factory service bulletin that applies to '98 Concordes that have the symptoms of problems starting
when the engine is warm or engine running rough after restart when the engine was warm. Earlier you had stated
that the problems occurred with you car "when its low on gas, and when its hot."

Nobody can diagnose your vehicle over the Internet, but read my post where I included information from the
factory's TSB. If it were my car I would follow the diagnostic procedures in the service manual and this TSB,
starting with the TSB. Its diagnostic test is fairly simple if you have a fuel pressure gauge. Your car may
require a new fuel pump module and/or a software update. Or it may be something else completely, again, can't
diagnose a vehicle over the Internet.

 

Please quote one of my posts in this thread that warrants that comment.
I have no idea why you would say that.

Why do you and aarcuda keep attributing airplane comments to me. I have
not once mentioned airplanes.

And who said they were?

The TSB that Greg quoted said: "Symptom: Hot engine no start, hot engine
restart w/ rough idle, or hot engine start/die-out. May have misfire
DTCs. ... May not restart until cools. Fuel vapor build up in the fuel
rail may be the cause."

Why is it a bad thing that Greg suggests that the OP follow the TSB in
this particular case since his symtpoms are pretty close to that, and it
applies to the exact vehicle.

Again, please quote me where your comments apply. My original post in
its entirety was: "Have it checked for codes.

"Has anyone mentioned crank or cam position sensors to you? Also, if
the problem is intermittent, I don't see how someone could rule out fuel
system (pump) - unless they caught it in the act of failing and
determined that the pump was indeed working when it wouldn't start, in
which case they should have been able to isolate the problem."

Is that so terrible? I think aarcuda is saying that the problem is in
the fuel pump/sender assembly. But if I suggest that as a possibility
in contradiction of what the OP has been told by the mechanics he's
consulted, I get hammered. I can't win with you and aarcuda.

I think much of what you have to say is totally unwarranted.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
adddress with the letter 'x')

 

See that you bunch of blow hards.

Like I said, none of you so called engineers can read worth a
shit. Just a bunch of frustrated Dilberts stuck in their
cubicles -wishing- they could do something constructive.
You all make me laugh.

Greg, nice job in those last few posts, how convenient that you
left off where he said; "about 80% of the time when its above 70
or a sunny day even " That makes you a sneak and a liar.

 

You must be new here. Sorry, but if you aren't familiar with the
other names that I've posted under, you'd probably come to the
wrong conclusion that you have. Hard to be directly helpful when
the signal to noise ratio gets as high as it is, these soccer
daddy mechanics tend to send people on wild goose chases, and
they can't stand the thought of someone who has dirt under their
fingernails knowing the root reasons and causes for these
problems, thus, all the sneering and puffery.

Bill is a cheapskate who fixes what he can on his own cars and
farms the rest out and then complains about the cost... fancies
himself to be skilled. He's a legend in his own mind. He knows
two things, chilly-willy brake rotors and where the input and
output speed sensors are on 41te/41le transmissions.
He thinks I'm jealous of him and anyone who went to college,
which really doesn't make any sense since I get along fine with
many other engineers and college educated people who frequent
this (and other) newsgroup(s). He's totally befuddled by the
fact that I have no respect for him because he's a full of
himself blow hard.

Bravo! There are enough differences in the fuel alone to make
the comparison a red herring.
Yet, for some reason, Matt Whiting feels compelled to remind us
on a regular basis that he's a airplane pilot and that makes him
smarter than anyone else.
(Matt, no one cares)

I'll consider your request.

Actually, I do know the problem, it's a very common one and
has/had been the subject of discussion in a professional forum
many years ago.
Where the confusion starts is that Chrysler expects their
mechanics to do the normal routine diagnostics -FIRST- and then
check to see if any TSBs APPLY. These numbskulls with the
assistance of one Glen Beasley (Mr. Back-flag his time ticket) do
things backwards, hence the saying; a TSB in the wrong hands is a
dangerous thing. (even when a dealership mechanic is involved)

Well, nice chatting with you. Let's sit back and wait for the
comments from the brain trust. (should be good for some laughs
and yucks)

 

Oh, I hadn't realized that you'd gone back to spitting tobacco
for a living.

No Dilbert, I've been here a long long time and my memory works
just fine.

The wheel bearing thing doesn't count since it only works some of
the time. Stethoscope is the only sure fire method.

Bill, I never said that cryogenics -didn't- work, now did I?

Ya see, the thing is, I have a car very identical to yours, it
has cheap chinese rotors on it and has had for quite a few
years/miles, no chilly-willy, no RT rotors. My brake rotors
don't warp, but then, I DO know how to do a proper brake job.
The fact that you've needed to resort to cryogenic treatment of
your rotors to solve a problem just means to me that you can't
solve the root problem and probably shouldn't go anywhere near
brake components.

Please, post some more wet dreams, they're quite humorous.

 

Is it a full moon again already?

Matt

 

Could be my calander does not show the cycles!

 

That's got to be what it is. The combination of that and parasites in
the brain.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
adddress with the letter 'x')

 

My 94' LHS did this once and it was the crank position sensor. Had it towed
to the garage & $100 and out the door fixed and never did it again.

Steve m...