96 GRAND CARAVAN - SERVICE ENG SOON

I have a 96 grand with 235,000. Was driving home tonight and the "Service
Engine Soon" light came on in the dash/. Can someone tell me what iniciates
this light. I'm just trying to determine if I can drive it over the weekend
until the dealers are open again on Monday. Thanks for any help

CHEERS
Bill

 

It means the engine control computer has detected an error in a sensor
or other system component. Typically, you can keep driving until you
can get to a dealer. You can also use the key to trigger the computer
to display the error code(s) by flashing the check engine light. Been a
while since I did this, but I think you switch the key on-off-on-off-on
and then watch the light. It will flash with short and long delays
between pulses. Count the flashes with short delays between them as
each digit and start a new digit after each long pause. If memory
serves, a code of 12 will always be displayed at the start and a code of
55 at the end. All of the two digit numbers in between constitute the
problem codes. Post what you find here and someone will tell you what
it means (I can pull my service manual as I have a 96 also).


Matt

 

Thanks for the info Matt, will check the codes in the morning and post them
here.

Bill

--

 

Morning Matt

I got the codes out, they were 12 , 32 , and 55. I guess from what you said
the number 32 is the problem code here. Thanks again and hopefully someone
will have the answer

CHEERS
Bill

--

 

From the book I have here which only goes to 1995

12 direct battery input to controller disconnected within the last 50
to
100 ignition key-ons

32 an open or shorted condition detected in the EGR solenoid circuit
or
required change in air/fuel ratio not detected during diagnostic
test

they could be wrong but it might be a start on stuff to check

REMOVE the NOCRAP in my address to reply.

 

I also have 96 Grand Caravan (3.8, 71K miles), with a SES light that
just came on. I have pulled the following codes: 12, 32, 55. I think I
remember reading that the 12 is battery disconnected and the 55 is end
of codes. Can someone tell me what the 32 is? Please correct me on the
12 & 55 if I'm incorrect on those. This did happen soon after my wife
filled it with gas, but it didn't seem like the cap was actually
loose. I asked her if she turns it until it clicks, but you can
imagine the response I got to that. Thanks.

 

Thanks for the reply Len. I think what I may try first after seeing what
these codes mean is to just disconnect the battery for a few minutes and see
if the fault conditions go away after I reconnect it. This may be just a
glitch in the computer. If that don't do it than I guess I'll be off to the
dealer tomorrow. Will let you know how I make out here, going out to give it
a try now

Bill

--

 

I just checked my 96 manual and it confirms what you said. 32 indicates
an EGR malfunction of some sort.


Matt

 

Code 32 is in fact an EGR system fault. From the SES core you can not tell
if it is the valve itself or the solenoid control circuit. A proper scan
tool can distinguish the code further to tell that. However, It is also a
fairly simple diagnostic procedure to find out which it is. EGR is one of
the more common failures. It likely is a real fault. you will likely find
that by disconnecting the battery to clear the code, It will return in a
short time. The computer will have to run all its tests again which can take
a few full drive cycles (full cold engine to fully warmed engine) before it
reappears. If there is a hard fault in the system, the light could come back
on, on the first cycle. EGR system is usually a fairly easy diagnostic and
fix.

As far as driving it, you may notice a decrease in gas mileage, and
certainly the emissions will be way out of whack, over limits. But you won't
harm anything any further. You are just not recycling any exhaust gases.

 

Mike is this something that I could fix myself or does it have to go to the
shop. I normally do all my own repairs but have not come up against this
fault before. I'm not afraid to tackel it but by the same token don't want
to beat my head against the wall. I suppose that even if I resolve the
problem I will still need to go to the dealer to have the fault bit reset in
the computer. When I got my first Caravan I bought a shop manual to go with
it. I guess its time I spent some money and got another shop manual for this
one.

Bill

--

 

code 32 is a egr failure code

 

you will need a egr kit from the dealer and it will include a transducer
replace the parts then disconnect the battery, then drive it and it should stay
off at this time you can now have to recalibrate the hvac head by placing the
temp control to cool, place the it to panel then press and hold the left upper
wiper and lower wiper switches intill the panel lites start to flash
alternately and then just let them run thier course when done the upper left led
will just flash

 

Replacing an EGR is usually pretty easy. Hard part is getting to it. A
manual is a good idea as it will help you confirm that it is really the
EGR that is at fault. I replaced one on my Acclaim a few years ago and
it was a 15 minute job. The van has a tighter engine compartment so it
may be a little more work.


Matt

 

Thanks Matt
Will get on the phone in the morning and see if I can locate a kit at the
dealer here. I have a 3.3 in the van and had to do the spark plugs this
spring, that was a bit of a tight spot. Especially the 2nd plug in from the
left.

Thanks again

--

 

You might also want to consider a $25 year's subscription to AllData for
your vehicle (www.alldata.com). With that you will get on-line access
to the FSM information (i.e., right out of the FSM - not questionable
aftermarket-quality info.) plus all TSB's for your vehicle (renewal and
any additional vehicles subscription are at $15 each per year). Unless
you're constantly working on your vehicle (hard copy is a litle more
convenient for flipping thru and finding info. as you are working) this
might be a good way to go (plus, as I said, you get access to all
TSB's).

(I have no connection with AllData other than having subscriptions for
two of my vehicles and seeing their product as being a good alternative
to the hardcopy FSM, and a source of TSB's.)

Bill Putney
(to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with "x")

 

It's not too bad to change. A few things to look at/for. EGR solenoid sits
on top of intake manifold. Make sure electrical connection is good. Check
Vacuum hose from solenoid to EGR valve, near throttle body. Check the EGR
intake tube for obvious signs of damage or leaks. Runs from EGR valve to
exhaust manifold right near O2 sensor. There is gaskets on both ends of this
tube, as well as under the EGR valve.

You can see if the ERG valve itself is stuck if you have the ability to
apply vacuum directly to the EGR valve. 2-3.5 inches of vacuum should cause
EGR valve to open - visually seen by a piston pin valve stem extending - it
has a groove on it to see relative movement. You can try applying vacuum
directly to the EGR valve with the engine idling. RPM should drop, and may
even stall as EGR gases are introduced at idle. This would confirm valve
stuck or not stuck.

 

Evening Mike

Was out today driving around and my wife noticed that the light had gone
out. Its been on for the last three days but for no reason it is now out so
I'll wait and see what happens. If it comes back I'm going to change the EGR
unit right away. I have a vaccum pump and calibration guage on the ship so I
can get that to test the unit. Called the dealer today and they want $70.00
for them up here so thats not bad. Thanks again for all the help.

Bill

--

 

OK, took it to Auto Zone and had them scan it. P0401 is the only code.
Is replacing the EGR valve assembly the right course of action?
Thanks.

 

Sounds like either a loose connection or a chafe on one of the wires that
can wiggle around and cause the solenoid to open when it should be closed or
not open when signalled, or a valve that's getting sticky, got stuck and has
now freed itself. It obviously passed a test on the last check cycle. I
suppose it could also still be a vacuum hose that is getting near its death
and if flexed just right will leak or not.

Check out those few easy things before you spend the $70. (Make sure it
comes with all the new gaskets)

Good Luck.

 

P0401 means that when the EGR was signalled to open, there was no change in
fuel/air ratio. You are still stuck at not knowing if the vacuum was unable
to open that valve (vacuum leak) or if the EGR valve is stuck or has an
internal diaphragm leak. If possible you need to try and operate the EGR
valve with an alternate vacuum source and watch to see if the valve is able
to move. Have a look around at the system as per the notes in the other half
of this thread. The codes are good, but not that good - some troubleshooting
is still required.