95 concorde

-- I'm looking at a 95 Concorde with 77K on it. Price is $4,000. The car
looks and drives like new. What should I watch out for before I buy it?
Thanks
Smitty

 

Bought a 95 Concord at an auction 1 1/2 years ago. Only problem, so far,
has been a blown intake manifold gasket on the 3.5L engine. Intake manifold
gaskets on the 3.5 are a known problem, written up in this group regularly.
Otherwise, it has been quite satisfactory. Mine also has a 'factory'
auxiliary transmission cooler. Picked up a 'factory' shop manual on Ebay
for $40, better than any Haynes or Chilton manual.

 

I have a 95 Eagle Vision Tsi, which is pretty much the same car. Bought
it with
54K miles and in a little over 2 years time, it is up to 92K miles. I
love this car, and it has been great to me this far. I am not sure what
engine this Concorde you are looking at has or what options it has, but
the only issues I have had with my car are:

-Water pump replaced at around 57K miles (3.5 engine)
-Timing Belt replaced at the same time
-Brakes at 80K miles
-Transmission work done at 70K miles (only cause it was under warranty
and I was picky on how it was shifting)
-Major tuneup (i.e.: spark plugs, wires, filters, throttle bodies
cleaned) at 89K miles

All and all, these really are pretty reliable cars. The only things
I would keep an eye on are:

-Rack and pinion steering: move the steering wheel back and forth while
the car is off and listen for any "pops". If there are then the rack may
be going bad.
-Check to see if the Trans has had any service and if so, was Chrysler
ATF fluid replaced or used?
-A/C work good? If not the evaperator may be going bad and that is
expensive to fix

I hope this information helps, and I wish you good luck in your possible
purchase!

 

In general;

Transmission should be checked out thoroughly. If it's already a
rebuild, regard that as a plus, especially if done by a Chrysler dealer
or a reputable transmission shop.

Check the steering (but you do say it drives like new). If it is loose
or creaks, especially when cold, check for bad bushings at the center of
the steering rack assembly.

The LH cars developed a lot of creaks and such over time; most are
plastic-on-plastic, and aren't of that great a concern unless they point
to collision damage, but you may spend a few weekends trying to track
them down and cure them. One of the most annoying noises that afflicts
some of them when going over washboard roads is a vibration in the roof
panel. From the drivers seat it sounds like it's coming from the trunk.
It can be cured by lowering the headliner, just enough to insert a
thin, stiff piece of plastic or cardboard or similar between the roof
panel and the stiffening brace, so the two can't vibrate against each
other. The cardboard backing from a legal pad, cut into two strips, is
perfect.

-GP

 

If you EVER intend to drive at night outside the well-lit city,
then test drive it at night, after dark, on an unlit road to make sure
your X-ray vision is good enough to live with the absolutely abysmal
headlamps.

DS

 

I have to say, this is the most insightful thing I've seen on usenet in a
long time. I have 3 LHS's, and I just tracked down an annoying clunk to the
bushings on the steering rack TODAY (I didn't know they put rubber bushings
in a tie rod end), and now I've learned how to stop the roof from vibrating.
Wow! It's going to be like having a new car....

I have found them to be very, very reliable. But that's how I am with
everything. No matter how everybody complains about a car, I always get good
service out of them. I predict if the OP buys this thing with 77k on it and
drives it to 120k, it'll be rattling a lot more. But other than that it'll
do fine.

 

Clunking can also be from rear AT mount if it comes from under AT console.