94 Intrepid 3.5L A/C problems again

I thought I fixed a leak in the AC system, but I was wrong. This time I
removed the plastic cap from low side service valve and opened the valve. A
very small amount of refrigerant came out, but it was enough for me to
identify the smell. It smelled exactly like the inside of the passenger
compartment smelled when I last charged up with a can of R134. So the leak
seems to be under the dashboard rather than in the engine compartment.

By the way, I used a can of r134 with UV dye and could see no signs of
leakage in the engine compartment.

Any ideas of what is leaking under the dash? Thanks.

 

The evaporator has a leak. The complete dash has to be removed in order to
replace this part. No a Do It Yourself Job.

Glenn Beasley
Chrysler Tech

 

You have a leaky evaporator. Lots of luck on that!

 

Did you use the special UV light to check ???
Yes if the fumes were in the inside of the car the evap is probably
leaking. I would sugest you have it checked to verify where the leak is..
R&R of the evap is a major project. DO NOT TRY AND PUT ANY SEALER IN THE
SYSTEM
to fix the leak

 

As Glenn (MaxPower)has pointed out before, the dye will show up (under
UV light) at the condensate drain with a leaking evap.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

 

Not a completely true statement... For the majority it would be dealer or
service center work, but SOME of us "at home mechanics" are capable...

 

Where is the condensate drain located? TIA.

 

Under the vehicle by the passenger side frame rail, just above the
transmission. If you are smelling the PAG oil inside the vehicle you can
bet the evaporator is leaking

Glenn

 

I've had dashes off of many cars to do expansion
valve/evaporator/actuator work, but as one gets older, it become more
an onerous task! Nothing's worse than getting contorted on the floor
pan to get the thing apart or back togehter and realizing you can't
get up all that easily.

 

and it won't be lomg the compressor fails from the moisture thats got into
the system

 

Only if the suction side draws down in the vacuum, impossible on DC
systems, which use a low side safety switch. The moisture would come
from ham fisted servicing, especially with those cheap kits sold in
junk stores for installing cans of 134...THAT'S a real problem, and
the reason why I always suggest taking car AC (or any refrigeration
job) to a well equipped professional with the right tools and basic
servicing knowledge to do the job correctly the first time.

 

well that's 3 posts by DeserTBob on this group, and on replies- so word
is getting out what a troll, hacker, and jerkoff he really is. If you
want a good eye opener, go over to alt.collecting 8-tracks group, now
he's over there attacking peoples' helpless wives.

http://groups.google.com/group/alt.collecting.8-track-tapes?lnk=li&hl=en

http://groups.google.com/group/alt....848fa/96f50da72fe1eab5?hl=en#96f50da72fe1eab5