94 dunster fuel pump?

Duster won't start. Tracing fuel pressure, and no fuel runs out at the
fuel filter when I unhook it and turn the engine over. Does not seem
to be any electric power to the pump...I get 12 volts there for the
blink of an eye when voltage checking it, then nothing. From there my
Chiltons help is zilch. Is there some kind of emergency fuel pump
circut breaker on this car? Fuse box does not list which fuse would go
to FP, so wonder if it is on the fuse block or is there a fuse
someplace else? I have no wiring diagram to work with, (willhit het
library and see what thye have this weekend) so any other help in that
direction would be great.

Thanks for any help!
Backally Bob

 

Factory Service Manual, the one printed by Chrysler. Only way to go.

Your "12v for the blink of an eye" suggests the fuel pump control circuit
(SMEC, AIS relay, fuel pump relay and associated fusible links) is working
correctly, but the SMEC is for some reason disabling the fuel pump. The
most common reason for this is that it's not seeing a signal pulse from
the distributor pickup. To check, disconnect the battery for two minutes,
reconnect, crank the engine for 5 seconds, turn the key "off", then pull
the flash codes.

To check the computer codes:

With the engine off, switch the ignition key on-off-on-off-on, leaving it
"ON". Do not go to "start", just "on" during this procedure.

Watch the "Check Engine" light. It will turn on, then go off, then will
begin to flash-out any trouble codes that have been stored. For instance,
if it flashes:

flash <pause> flash flash
<long pause>
flash flash flash <pause> flash flash flash flash flash
<long pause>
flash flash flash flash flash <pause> flash flash flash flash flash

Then you have a 12 (one flash followed by two) a 35 (three and five) and a
55 (five and five). 12 means "start of codes", 55 means "end of codes"
or, if by itself, "No codes stored". Check the codes and report what you
find. If you get a code 11, the SMEC isn't seeing the distributor.

The most common reasons why the SMEC wouldn't see the distributor are, in
order from most to least likely:

-Dead hall effect pickup in the distributor
-Broken timing belt (distributor not turning)
-Broken intermediate shaft (distributor and oil pump not turning)

To eliminate the 2nd and 3rd on this list, remove the distributor cap and
observe the rotor while cranking the engine. If it turns, the timing belt
and intermediate shaft are intact. This doesn't necessarily mean the
timing belt is in acceptable condition; it could be loose and tattered and
maybe even jumped time, but it's present and turning the intermediate
shaft which is turning the distributor.

DS

 

Daniel J. Stern wrote:

Daniel Stern? The same Daniel Stern that gave me the directions on how
to wire in a regular voltage regulator into my '86 Dodge Daytona about
6 months ago? FYI, it's still running good as my normal day-to-day
driver.

I Checked the codes, and came up with 12 and 55.

Distributor turns. so I went back and double checked all my earlier
work. In checking the voltage at the fuel pump, it has the split
second of voltage when I put the key to run, but if I crank the engine
the voltage stayed up about 10.8v. I still have the fuel filter off,
and nothing was coming out so I would assume now that the pump is
dead. Replacement pump is pushing $200, is there any other way I can
test the pump other than pulling it out and putting 12v directly to it?
Where the plug is in the car prevents me from doing it unless I drop
the tank, unless I want some possible bad connections and sparks
flying. No fun there! The thought of working on all those rusted
bolts and fuel fittings while laying on the garage cement is not a
pleasent thought.

Thanks
BZ

 

The very same.

Terrific, but don't tell "maxpower" a/k/a "damnnickname" a/k/a Glenn
Beasley. He claims this fix doesn't work.

Assuming you checked the codes *after* disconnecting the battery for 2
minutes,
reconnecting it and attempting to start the vehicle, this tells us the
SBEC sees your distributor.

....which is normal line voltage with the starter operating. Sounds like
your fuel pump control circuit is in OK shape.

It's certainly beginning to look that way.

....but you get a new pump, seal, and float/pickup assembly.

Well, you could replace the pump with a new one, and then when the car
starts you'll know it was the old one...

Yep, dropping the tank will be necessary.

If it is sufficiently unpleasant, you may want to farm this one out.

 

No, I'll do it, just a pain when everything is corroded up so bad. I
also had a friend who's opinion I respect tell me to make sure the fuel
pump relay is working. He said he has had relays have enough contact
to register good voltage, but when you put a load on them they cannot
sustain it enough to run the pump. So before I drop the tank I may
wiggle wires just a bit. He thought the relay would be under/behind
the glove box. Would that be right?

Thanks again for the help.

 

No, that would be wrong. The ASD, fuel pump, radiator fan and A/C clutch
relays are all located under the hood.

 

He wasn't talking specific to the Duster, just that he has had that
happen to him in the past with other vehicles. Do you know where those
relays would be, or which one is specific to the fuel pump? And does
his theory sound plausable to you?

 

Engine compartment, left side.

Not really, those relays are pretty robust, but it's cheap to test!

 

By the way, if it does turn out to be the fuel pump, and it's an in-tank
pump,
a word to the wise - do not run the gas tank down to empty then refill it.
You should refill the tank every time it goes under 50%. The reason is the
gasoline cools the pump for in-tank fuel pump.

Ted