92 plymouth acclaim starts hard when cold

this is a 92 plymouth acclaim with a 2.5 4cyl the head gasket blew. i had
the head milled 4 thousand to clean it up the machine shop said it was ok
was not cracked (alum.head)put it back to gether. set the timing marks put
the belt back on what a pain in the but that was car ran great now what it
is doing when it is cold the thing starts hard it is fuel injected it acts
like it is loaded up with fuel like there is a stuck choke but there is no
choke on fuel inj cars. it acts like the old carborated cars when the
choke would stick closed and would load up with fuel until you step down
on it and clean it out when it is being started i hafto step down on the
pedle or it wont start when it starts up it runs like crap for a minute
then clears up then runs good when the car is up to temp it starts fine no
problem i have checked my timing marks to be sure i didnt slip a tooth on
the belt and checked my timing degree it is set at 12 degree it only acts
up in the morning this is my wife car and she is scard to drive it she is
afraid of getting stranded somewhere thanks i am lost on this one

 

Could be a faulty MAP sensor, cracked or blocked MAP sensor vacuum hose,
water in MAP sensor hose, or other fault.

To check the computer codes:

With the engine off, switch the ignition key on-off-on-off-on,
leaving it "ON". Do not
go to "start", just "on" during this procedure.

Watch the "Check Engine" or "Power Loss" light. It will turn on, then go
off, then will begin to flash-out any trouble codes that have been stored.
For instance, if it flashes:

flash <pause> flash flash
<long pause>
flash flash flash <pause> flash flash flash flash flash
<long pause>
flash flash flash flash flash <pause> flash flash flash flash flash

Then you have a 12 (one flash followed by two) a 35 (three and five) and a
55 (five and five). 55 means "end of codes" or, if by itself, "No codes
stored. Check the codes and report what you find.

Are you using the correct procedure to check your ignition timing
(disconnect coolant temperature sensor)?

 

Since you had the head milled, make sure they put the correct temperature
sensor back in the head. If you got a wrong sensor it could cause just such
a problem.

 

It may be injected, but this can still be a problem. By that I mean
that a LOT of injection systems make very carefull adjustment and
metering of the FUEL, but do virtually nothing for the AIR!

I trust there is a "throttle body"???

I had a 3.0 V6, and there was a throttle body, and it is very easy to
take off and inspect. KISS principle. Remove the throttle body and
make sure that the main body, and all the ports and orofices (sp?) are
clean and free of gunk and crap. A can of "throttle body" cleaner is
cheap, and it is small work to clean this up and eliminate it as a
source of problems. The throttle body on my 3.0 was totally clogged
with thick goey black crud. I spent some time and took all the little
bits off of it, and totally cleaned everything to a sparkling shine.
Things sure worked a lot better after that.

I would also check the O2 sensor. When the engine is cold the O2
sensor should not be operational. I believe a defective O2 sensor
could throw off the mix even at cold temperatures if it was either
grounding or shorting. Again, only takes a quick moment to check and
eliminate this as a possible problem. Also realtively inexpensive and
easy to swap out.

hth

 

False. All EFI systems available on the '92 Acclaim have full idle air
control.

There is.

That happens on the 3.0, which has a "dry" throttle body upstream of the
fuel injectors. The 2.2/2.5 nonturbo engine has a "wet" throttle body
containing the one and only fuel injector. It does not get crudded up like
the dry throttle bodies, for it has a constant spray of gasoline keeping
the throttle plate, AIS passages and other orifices clean.

When the engine is cold the O2 sensor is never operational. That's how
they work. But, it is good advice to check the O2S and also to check the
miles since last replacement and the brand. If it is a Bosch and/or has
not been changed in the last 50k miles, replacement is a wise idea even if
it can be seen to work on a VOM or scan tool (they get lazy with age, and
the failure that caused the head to need removal could very easily have
contaminated the sensor).

Certainly possible, but not too likely.

The symptoms sound more like MAP-related problems.

DS