90 spirit won't run

That's what I figured.

I didn't replace either of them. I've had the car for about a month, and it
ran fine until this. I figure it has to be something electrical, though.
It was running fine when I parked it. Then, when I went to leave, it
wouldn't start.

After I replaced the TPS, I unhooked the battery to reset the codes. Since
then, I haven't had any codes except 12 and 55.
Wes

 

How does the car act when the Hall Effect sensor in the distributor goes
out? My dad is a mechanic that works at a starter/battery place. He works
with a guy that's worked on quite a few dodge/chrysler vehicles, and he
swears it sounds like it's the Hall Effect sensor.
Wes

 

Or worse, fill a cylinder with fuel then fold a connecting rod when you
start it up afterward.

 

It refuses to run. The Hall Effect sensor is a real possibility; that's
why I asked you to clear the codes and then check 'em.

 

Naw, I just suggested it 'cause I get my jollies from making people do
pointless stuff.

 

You have eliminated that theory by keeping the engine running with starting
fluid, thats why i said to use gum cutter or something similar to make sure
it has spark, if it were a pickup plate, the engine would not keep running
as you sprayed the starting fluid in it. you are losing fuel somewhere, and
if all test were done and still have no fuel sprayed from injector, replace
it

 

If he can keep the engine running with starting fluid how can it be a pickup
plate problem, stop spraying, engine shuts off, has nothing to do with
spark!!! The basics you gotta have spark, compression and fuel, he has no
fuel!!!!

 

Dan's suggestions have caused me to invest SO much additional work on
my own cars that I now take my car to the dealer for even the simplest
things, like refilling the washer fluid bottle, checking oil level and
tire air pressure.

NOT!!!! ;-)

 

Well, I get MY jollies from watching people refuse to take good advice,
and then whine that the car is still broken

 

Good point, and you may be right. But I'll counter that its not 100%
conclusive. Starting fluid lights off a lot eaiser than gasoline, so a
spark that is too weak, to early, or too late can fire starting fluid
but not gasoline. In fact, a healthy engine might even "diesel" on the
stuff with no spark at all.

Also, where does the timing signal for the fuel injection come from on
that car? The Hall Effect sensor, maybe? Hmmm.... ;-)

 

Yet another stupid question from Max. My, my, what a surprise.

For fifty points, can you tell us the source of the pulsed signal the ECM
looks at to determine whether or not to supply power to the injector?

(Hint: It's the pickup assembly.)

 

False. It is perfectly possible to have the Chrysler 4-cylinder pickup
plate continue generating a spark but fail to generate a sufficient or
proper signal for the ECM to run the fuel injector. That may or may not be
what's happening here, but it is certainly possible. You are behaving as
though he is working on a 1964 Dodge Dart.

The fuel injector itself might be faulty, but it's probably not; they
seldom fail on this setup. The "Replace parts until it runs" method is the
sign of an ignorant, lazy, halfassed mechanic. You're not ignorant, lazy
and/or halfassed, are you Max? Naw, 'course you're not. But then, how come
you're making stupid suggestions like "Replace the fuel injector because
you're losing fuel", instead of helping the OP to understand that the only
way he's going to get his car working again is through systematic and
proper diagnosis?

I suppose one possibility is that you are simply an asshole.

DS

 

you make no sense again, if the pickup plate was bad you wouldnt have spark
or fuel, so if we give it fuel manually then the pickup plate is
functioning because the engine is running, and if the engine is running isnt
the pickup plate doing its job, it doesnt take that much to figure out Dan
C, im sorry, Daniel S.I get you 2 mixed up... now if we take away the
fuel,the engine will cut off. 2+2 still equal 4 doesnt it? or are we gonna
argue that point to?

 

The fuel injector itself might be faulty, but it's probably
not;>>>>>???????? probably??? isnt that like second
guessing??>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>But then, how come

come across the part where i said if all tests good replace the injector>>>>
let me find what i said so your lame ass can read it again, hmmm here it
is>>>>>>>, if all else tests out,
connections, fuel pressure, all sensor values, timing set to specs, you
would have to take the next step and replace the injector, cause you cant
see what is happening with it internally,
does that ring a bell ?? you realy should try to grow up

 

Ooohboy. Chilton books will get you nowhere in a big hurry. You need a
factory book. They're not hard or expensive to get.

Good way to fry a fuel injector,,, AND ONCE AGAIN HE RUNS HIS MOUTH< ON
PAGE 15 OF THE CHRYSLER PRINTED DRIVABILTY BOOK IT STATES T O GROUND THE
WIRE AND CONNECT A JUMPER WIRE TO THE OTHER END

instead of helping the OP to understand that the only
way he's going to get his car working again is through systematic and
proper diagnosis?
IS THAT WHAT YOU CALL WHAT YOU ARE DOING, the book is right, but daniel
wants to rewrite it

 

You dont have a fault for distributor reference signal (No distributor
reference signal detected during cranking) You dont have a fault for
Injector peak current (caused by high resistance in the control circuit)
which is also the PCM test, You dont have a fault for injector control
circuit ( engine controller does not sense injector switching on and off
when a control is switched) so all those tests i would assumed pass, the
only thing it does not test is if the pintel is opening, you would need a
lab scope for that. but as our friend Dan C states, they did not have many
problems with that injector, but then again the car is 14 yrs old, once
again, if you supply fuel(starter fluid) and the engine runs and all other
test passed especially the TPS sensor ( cause if will shut off fuel) and the
speed sensor cause it will also cause a no start if bad, then i would have
to say the injector is faulty, assuming all others passed, this is the last
post i will make to this, i dont get into these games with people like
daniel. there was also a recall out on the 2.5/2.2 for replacement of the
injector, im not sure what yr it was , give me the serial number via my e
mail address and i will check for you. it may have been 1988 im not sure

 

Wes one more thing, since you arent able to see the map sensor values
disconnect the map sensor electrical connector only, leave the vacuum hooked
up, see if the engine will run now, if the map sensor is shorted out, it may
not set a code and will also cause a no start. this would be part of the
test to check before replaceing the injector but since you can see the
values with out a scanner it is going to be difficult,

 

can't tell ya how many asd relays i have replaced on those cars

 

ASD relays shut down spark and fuel, if it were the relay, it would still
not run when you kept it running with starting fluid because the asd would
have shut down spark, you should no that Mic, it is either a shorted Map
sensor or faulty injector

 

....and he doesn't have a prayer of doing any meaningful system diagnosis
by means of flash codes obtained by watching the "Check Engine" light
blink.