'90 LeBaron eating batteries

Recently, there would be this clicking when you started it - 3-5
times, then it would start. Does this mean a loose ground or something?
I've put 2 batteries in it since I got it in April, 2004. Now, the
check engine light stays on, and if you drive it too far (with a
borrowed good battery) the check gauge light comes on. Can someone give
me some leads or something.

 

Sounds like a couple of things could be going on.. obviously it is
electrical..HHEHE.. anyhow go to your local autoparts store (autozone
Checker etc) and have them do a test on your alternator and your
starter.. I would bet that your alternator is going out... also sounds
like you have an issue with your starter.. It could also be just that
your starter has some issues and the Silanoid is continualy putting a
drain on the battery that the Alternator cannot keep up with.. Anyhow
have them test those items.. oh yes before you go charge up your
battery that way they don't blame it on your battery.

 

I forgot to mention that I replaced the alternator - with the one that
was in the trunk. I was told it was new (and it was larger then the
original, kind of a tight fit). My fan wouldn't come on today, car
started to overheat. Not sure if that's related. I pulled it out a
while ago and threw it in the trunk. It's working though, I connected
it to the battery terminals and it spun .
What's the most likely problem though? If it turned out to be the
computer, would you buy one from a junk yard? I determined to fix this
stupid problem. I have a working knowledge of electricity, just never
troubleshot auto electrics before.

 

I would look at your starter next and also start looking for shorts in
the electical system. I would say that the fan not coming on is part of
your issue... Pick up a manual with a electical schematic for your car
and start looking for shorts coming from the areas that you have
already had issues with IE starter, fan etc.. Also make sure that the
alternator that you put in matches specs for your car.. if it is
pushing too many amps that can cause an issue as well... I wouldn't
jump to the conclution that it is your computer the issues you have
been having are not necessarily controled by the computer..

 

Check for codes.

To check the computer codes:

With the engine off, switch the ignition key on-off-on-off-on,
leaving it "ON". Do not
go to "start", just "on" during this procedure.

Watch the "Check Engine" or "Power Loss" light. It will turn on, then go
off, then will begin to flash-out any trouble codes that have been stored.
For instance, if it flashes:

flash <pause> flash flash
<long pause>
flash flash flash <pause> flash flash flash flash flash
<long pause>
flash flash flash flash flash <pause> flash flash flash flash flash

Then you have a 12 (one flash followed by two) a 35 (three and five) and a
55 (five and five). 55 means "end of codes" or, if by itself, "No codes
stored. Check the codes and report what you find.

 

1st tool you'll need is a voltmeter.

Get the engine running, measure the battery voltage (everything electrical,
switched OFF). The voltage should be over 14 volts. If it's not, then the
battery isn't charging.
Check the alternator output (the big heavy wire, bolted on) You should see
better than 14 volts. If not, check the Vreg (can't remember where it is on
this car). If the Vreg is inside the alternator, check that the sense wire
FROM the battery, represents the same voltage measured at the battery, if
the voltage (less than 14 volts) is there, and the alternator still isn't
producing an output, suspect the built in Vreg, or open diodes, or worn out
brushes. If the Vreg is external, check that it can monitor the battery
voltage, check that it outputs a ground signal to the alternator to turn on
the field winding (other side connected to the battery. By manually
grounding this lead the alternator should output maximum voltage, while it's
grounded.
Usual problems are POOR grounds, check the battery to chassis ground, Vreg
to body ground, solenoid relay to chassis ground and engine to frame/body
ground.

 

as for codes: 12,35,41, and 55

Basically, the battery would read 12.3 - 12.5 volts when the engine
was off. When you started it, it dropped to something below 12v. When
you revved the engine, it would go down more. I guess all this was
already obvious.

I took the "new" alternator off, and found which wires the 2 (coming
off the molded connector) correspond to. There's a square connector
near the battery, and two of those pins correspond to the 2 that
connect to the alternator. Haven't determined which is the "field" or
"control" (computer) wires yet. Have to see what my wiring diagram says
(and my diagram says it's for an AA body, and I think mine is AJ. Was
e-mailed and told that it shouldn't matter).

Now, once I get done tasting the alternator, by grounding the control
terminal, I guess I have to start randomly testing continuity. There
isn't as many wires as I first suspected though. And the part about the
starter - how would I tell if the starter is causing the problem.
Thanks immensely for everyone's help by the way. I'm sure I'll be an
electrical expert after I get through this .

I took a look at my old alternator, which had alot nicer fit. It won't
turn, obviously frozen from the humidity in the air. Since these things
are repairable, I'll probably clean it up, deal with the binding issue,
and reinstall it. Are parts generally available to overhaul alternators
these days? Hate putting too much money into this car. Needs a cat,
struts, and shocks as it is lol. I already bought everything necessary
for a major tune-up. My guess is I could even install new bearings
(bronze?) with an arbor press? if necessary.

I think the regulator is in the computer module. Can't swear to it,
but I think that's what the dude at Carquest told me.