'83 Chrysler 5th Ave bucking

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by Sue, May 12, 2005.

  1. Sue

    Kokomo Kid Guest

    Chrysler is doing better than the US nameplate competition because of the
    product, specifically the 300 and Magnum, and soon the Charger. Meanwhile,
    GM has new, generic front-drive cars like LaCrosse, and Ford has new generic
    front-drive cars like the 500. Actually, the 500 and Montego are nice cars,
    but should have a little more motor. Still, the competition is pretty tough
    in the $25-30K generic front-drive car catagory.
     
    Kokomo Kid, May 12, 2005
    #21
  2. Sue

    maxpower Guest

    When was the last time this vehicle was tuned up with a good set of plugs
    and wires?, Those carburetors were very easy to overhaul with just a carb
    kit and a set of floats, has that option been given to you? And was the car
    put on an oscilloscope to check the primary and secondary voltages?
    Glenn Beasley
    Chrysler Tech
     
    maxpower, May 12, 2005
    #22
  3. Sue

    Steve Guest

    Actually, just a crudded up cap and rotor can cause a lean-running 70s
    or 80s 318 to kick and buck quite a bit, especially when hot.

    Basically, given nothing more than the info above, I'd guess its either
    fuel starvation (fuel filter, fuel pump) or a secondary ignition problem
    (coil, wires, plugs). Carb would be a lot further down on my list.
     
    Steve, May 12, 2005
    #23
  4. Sue

    maxpower Guest

    Yup I agree with you
     
    maxpower, May 12, 2005
    #24
  5. Sue

    Guest Guest

    I agree, Steve.
    There are some good dealerships (which is more than I would have said a
    couple of years ago)
    but there are a lot that are not good at all.
    Prices tend to be higher and work crappier.
    I have not had one of my cars serviced or repaired at a dealership in about
    20 years.
    Those things I cannot or will not do myself, I take to a dependable
    independent garage.
    (You may have to search for them too, but they are out there.)

    Most, but not all, service or filling stations are to be wary of.
     
    Guest, May 12, 2005
    #25
  6. Sue

    Guest Guest

    GM and Ford have, from all reports I have seen, been very good at making
    cars that few people want. Both these giants are in dire straits. Their
    cars are bargains right now.

    Chrysler has some interesting cars, if they can overcome the quality stigma
    that they so justly deserved a couple of decades ago.

    Still, quality concerns, gas prices, and state of the economy can play havoc
    with the best laid plans.
     
    Guest, May 12, 2005
    #26
  7. Sue

    Ken Pisichko Guest

    I am not sure about the USA, but here in Canada the CAA (which is our
    equivalent of the AAA) gives an approval rating to service shops that neet
    their criteria for competence, honesty and being trustworthy. You might
    want to ask a local AAA office about any recommended shops near you. They
    may help whether you are an AAA member or not.

    Ken Pisichko
    Canada
     
    Ken Pisichko, May 13, 2005
    #27
  8. when i was getting my car towed to my usual garage, i asked the CAA
    guy where he gets his tow trucks repaired. i'll be there next.
    ....thehick
     
    frank-in-toronto, May 13, 2005
    #28
  9. Sue

    sdlomi2 Guest

    Sue, over the years, we've run into driveability problems with 5th Ave's
    as you describe. I'm assuming yours is the v-8, 318 cubic inch, with
    rear-wheel drive. If that be the case, it's got the "lean-burn" engine
    management system on it. A quick way to determine if your ECM is faulty is
    to temporarily swap air cleaners with someone's 5th Ave that is performing
    correctly. I'm betting the computer, mounted on the air cleaner, is causing
    your problem.
    If when you swap--MAKING SURE THE NUMBERS ON THE COMPUTER ARE
    IDENTICAL--your engine performs correctly, then you can simply replace your
    computer, maybe a new one from Chrysler, a re-built one from Chrysler, or an
    after-market one from an auto parts chain, like NAPA.
    In our experience, the carbs don't give that much trouble--just the
    computers which control the carb as well as other driveability-related
    controls.
    Good luck & HTH. s
     
    sdlomi2, May 13, 2005
    #29
  10. Sue

    adironco Guest

    Much appreciated, as were the other tips, none of which she had a
    chance to try. Sue asked me to monitor the group for answers while
    she's away for the weekend (sans the 5th Avenue). Finding another 5th
    Avenue owner to swap air cleaners with could be a problem, but we'll
    look around.

    Thanks,
    Brother Bob
     
    adironco, May 14, 2005
    #30
  11. www.car-part.com , searchable used auto parts clear across North America.
    The item you'd be after is listed as "Computer Box - Engine".

    The other poster is right; the Carter BBD carburetor on this '83 is
    generally reliable and durable. However, it *is* a feedback carburetor
    with a duty cycle solenoid that can stick and cause driveability problems
    (e.g. bucking). That doesn't necessarily mean it needs replacement, but it
    may need service. Also, your '83 would have an early type of Oxygen sensor
    that ought to be replaced every 30,000 miles. Most people don't, though,
    and the sensor finally gives up the ghost and causes driveability faults.
    The O2 sensor can be found threaded into the front of the driver's side
    exhaust manifold. Looks like an oversized spark plug. There's one wire
    leading to it. If you unplug this wire at the connector and the bucking
    stops...!
     
    Daniel J. Stern, May 14, 2005
    #31
  12. Sue

    Sue Guest

    Thank You all so very much for your input.I never expected so many
    responses and appreciate them all. I do feel better about getting my
    car back on the road now. I will be trying your suggestions and will
    report back when the problem is (hopefully) solved. Once again, thanks
    to all...
     
    Sue, May 17, 2005
    #32
  13. Sue

    Sue Guest

    Well, mystery solved. Even the mechanic was bafffled for awhile, idled
    fine but bucked once you drove it around for awhile. It was the brakes.
    I'll try to expain what he said. Once the brakes got heated up and you
    stepped on the brakes the brake hose was collapsing and when you took
    your foot off the brake they weren't totally disengaging , almost like
    driving with your emergency brake on. Make sense? Sure glad I didn't
    get that new carburator! Thanks again for all your input. You made me
    keep looking for someone who knew what they were doing instead of just
    giving up and I'm glad I did.
     
    Sue, Jun 8, 2005
    #33
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