5.2 V8 Oil filter question

well, for starters, EVERY SINGLE 225 I've ever had my hands on has
come into my posession/under my care with a Fram filter on it. EVERY
ONE would rattle and bang and keep the oil light on on startup for 5-7
seconds. EVERY ONE started up nice and quiet with the oil light
blinking out almost immediately after an oil change with some Rotella
15W40 and a Wix 51515 filter. That's enough Fram for me. An upside
down filter and a shitty, cheap anti-drainback valve don't really work
well together. Of course if you have a right-side-up filter you may
think it's no big deal, but hey, if the anti-drainback valve doesn't
work, how do you know the rest of the filter is any good? Not to
mention all the VW guys blowing off Frams on cold startup. (nothing
says SUCK like a Corrado with no oil.)

Sure, it's anecdotal evidence... but in my mind it's fairly
compelling, and the price difference is negligible enough that I stick
with either Wix or Hastings depending on what's handy. (for VW I use
Mann or Mahle) Since Wix uses a depth type element unlike pretty much
everyone else, that's a big plus in my book too, esp. with old engines
of unknown maintenance history/amount of sludge built up inside. Took
off a NAPA Gold (relabeled Wix) from my '62 Stude (tons o' sludge) a
while back, it weighed about twice as much as the new filter I put on
but was apparently still flowing. Life good.

nate

 

OK, which brands? I use Mobil 1 and have never had any significant
sludge accumulation, at least not in areas I can see (underside of valve
covers and top of head).


Matt

 

I hear you. The '86 Subaru that I sold a couple of years ago would peg
the 100 psi bourdon tube presure gage that I had on it when cold.

Next time you're in the auto parts store, momentarilly sneak a Pure One™
out of its box and poke it a little bit - I think you'll see what I
mean. It's really bizarre.

Bill Putney
(to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with "x")

 

Ahh ohh! Are we working up to one of those perenial "Pennsylvania
parafin-based oils vs. all other oils" arguments? 8^)

Bill Putney
(to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with "x")

 

Bill Putney wrote:

No need for that... I routinely *USE* Pure One filters on my other cars.
I think I still have an un-installed new one on my parts shelf. Maybe
its just the model filter you use? I only use the L-mumblemumble
(whatever it is- I have some mental block against Purolator filter
numbers! Can't remember 'em for anything even after using them for
years) that cross-references to a Wix 1515 or AC PF-2.

 

Cars with Daytime Running Lamps and Fram oil filters, and the owners who
pour Pennzoil into them: Next Jerry Springer!

DS

 

And don't forget K&N air filters, and Amsoil...

Bill Putney
(to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with "x")

 

I wonder how your 225's would have responded with fresh oil and a fresh fram
filter? Not that I'm doubting what you say. I've never had any problems
with fram filters and I've used them for years(not exclusively mind you).

 

Hmm funny thing is the Quaker State oil is always more expensive than the
rest
of the brands. (at least around here)

Ted

 

....and their gay owners who want to get married...

DS

 

According to the bobistheoilguy website, one of those "pennsylvania
based" companies actually has one of the best conventional oils on the
market today.

The one that shocked me was when Exxon split their Superflo oil line
into "Superflow Supreme" and "Superflo" a few years ago. I used to use
Exxon oils all the time, never had a problem. I had switched to Mobil 1,
but my Dad stuck with Exxon Supeflo and not " Superflo Supreme" when the
split happened. And his 318 filled up with sludge at a mileage where
mine (back on pre-split Superflo and Uniflo even before that) had
remained perfectly clean.

I tend to stay away from all bargain-line oils because of that, but now
that the "oilguy" website is available, its probably a better guide than
price or market placement alone.

 

For many years- Pennzoil and Quaker State, and cheap "store brand"
stuff. More recently, Exxon Superflo (NOT Superflo Supreme). In my
junkyard prowling, I find a high correlation of sludgy engines to layers
of "Jiffy Lube" stickers remaining on the door jambs, also. FWIW.



I've never had sludge accumulation with older Exxon oils (Uniflo and
Superflo prior to splitting into Superflow and Superflow Supreme lines),
or with Valvoline or Mobil. Always heard wonderful things about Shell
Rotella and Chevron oils too, but never used them.

 

Which Pennsylvania Based companies would those be? Sun Oil?

 

Where do such oils exist on the mass market?

 

During my entire post-toddler life, I have heard this specifically
about Quaker State and (be sure to sound your "Z" in) Pennzoil. Urban
mtyh or fact-based? I don't know.

Bill Putney
(to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with "x")

 

I've heard this also for years, but I believe it is urban legend. I
can't believe that QS or Pennzoil would still be in business if this was
true. They'd have been class actioned to death by now...

I think it was Quaker State that had a bad batch of oil get out many
years ago (70s I think) and they ended up replacing a lot of engines.
However, I believe this was due to a lapse in quality control, not a
fundamental problem with the composition of the base stock.

I've used full synthetic oil since the late 70s so I haven't worried too
much about this anyway.


Matt

 

Kendall, Pennzoil, and Quaker State used to be three such oils,
although I don't know if any still are.

nate

 

That's a good point, but my philosophy is "why risk it?"

Notice that I also specified Rotella oil... again, the only real cost
difference is the time it takes to find it, but it gives me a little
more peace of mind that I'm using the best stuff I know of in my car
(short of a synthetic, which I do use in my newer cars - I figure the
old ones aren't worth it since I have to change the oil so frequently
anyway) and then if it *does* break down the road at least I won't be
kicking myself about using inferior products due to cheapness or
laziness.

nate

 

The last Quaker State refinery that I know of in Pennsylvania was in Rouseville and
closed down about four years ago. Another company saved most of the jobs in the western
Pa facility. by converting it to a wax making operation.

There is still some Penn Grade crude oil available, but the wax plant obtains its crude
oil from Utah, because it contains more parafin. I think a small WV refinery still
uses crude from Pennsylvania, but I don't know what that refinery produces.

In the meantime, Quaker State merged with part of the former Pennzoil. Royal Dutch
Shell down owns the entire operation through a subsidiary.

The remaining refineries in Pennsylvania (i.e. Sun and whatever the Tosco refinery is
now) are in/near Philadelphia and obtain their crude oil via tankers.

Quaker State had moved its headquarters from Oil City to Texas in 1995 and was aquired
by Pennzoil in 1998.

By the way, that Rouseville Quaker State refinery, when it was in operation as a
refinery, shipped its products other oil companies for packaging. Not sure if was used
as motor oil though, there are tons of products that are derived from refined oil.

I wouldn't get too concerned about the trademark on the outside of the bottle, except
for what additives are used. Then again, for synthetic oil, I only go with Mobil 1.
Perhaps synthetic from other brands is just as good?

 

Today, Pennzoil and Quaker State are little more than brand names of Royal Dutch/Shell
Oil though.