2001 Town and Country A/C problem

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by \joe\, Jul 2, 2005.

  1. \joe\

    \joe\ Guest

    I have a 2001 Town and Country where the A/C would not cool. I charged
    the system with 24 oz. of r124a plus a can of dye. It worked fine for
    6 weeks and then lost it's charge. High side 125psi. low 20 psi. Using
    an electronic detector there was no signal from the engine
    compartment, but it beeped in the front dash vents. It would seem like
    a front evaporator leak. What causes the evaporator to leak other than
    poor construction?
    I called Chrysler and asked if they are having problems with their
    evaporators on T & C's. I know they had problems in the past with
    evaporators in some models and they entended the waranty on them. I
    was told that on this model they did extend the waranty on the A/C
    compressor, but not the evaporator. It would seem that a 4 y/o car
    with 46k miles shouldn't need to have the evaporator replaced.

    It appears that to replace the evaporator the entire dash has to be
    removed. I'm pretty good mechinically, but I'm not sure I want to
    handle this one.
    The dealer quoted ~$1000 for the job.
    A friend of a friend ( who is reported to be a good mechanic and has
    done a number of these) quoted ~ $800. He also suggested replacing the
    heater core since the only cost would be the part.
    If I take it to the dealer and there is something wrong with the
    compressor the waranty will cover the compressor. I'd be on my own
    with that if I took it to the independet mechanic.
    Any suggestions?
    Should I replace the heater core also?
    Has anyonre done this job, and is it as much of a bear as it appears?
    Should I personally give it a try?

    Thanks
     
    \joe\, Jul 2, 2005
    #1
  2. \joe\

    Comboverfish Guest

    How did you remove the '10' from r134a to create 124a freon?
    Well, there's bad construction, crappy construction, and inadequate
    construction to name three.
    Evaporators? Heavens, no! I've never heard of an evaporator failure
    on a Chrysler product, let alone a 2001 Town and Country... Please
    complete the survey after I hang up with you if you think I did a
    satisfactory job of customer service. Thanks!!
    Sounds about right.
    Not a *bad* idea, but the heater core really shouldn't give you trouble
    -- statistically. It's probably a waste of money, unless your mechanic
    likes to destroy the soft brass pipes during hose removal.
    Treat them as separate issues. At this time you need an evaporator.
    Give yourself a day or two time frame to carefully remove and keep
    track of all of the bolts, screws and dash components and you shouldn't
    have a problem. Do you have the capability of evacuating the system to
    29" vacuum before recharging? That needs to be done for a proper
    repair.

    Toyota MDT in MO
     
    Comboverfish, Jul 2, 2005
    #2
  3. \joe\

    \joe\ Guest

    I got the r134a on a discount, only $9 /lb.so they call it r124a. ;)
    I have the manifold and vaccum pump to evacuate the system.
    I'm more worried about all the electronics and connections in the
    dash..Someone suggested a two part system for fixing the leak. Has
    anyone any experiance with it? I question how good it would be for the
    compressor, reciever dryer, or the H valve.

    Thanks
     
    \joe\, Jul 3, 2005
    #3
  4. \joe\

    Comboverfish Guest

    I wouldn't try any "Mechanic in a Bottle" crap for your A/C system. It
    can certainly cause more problems than you have right now. Modern
    automotive condenser core tubing is the smallest diameter it has ever
    been (more prone to clogging), and your van uses an expansion valve
    (more expensive to replace than an orifice tube if it clogs).

    I wouldn't worry about the electrical connections. They are all
    differently shaped to ease reassembly. Simply label every connector
    and part with adhesive memo paper or whatever.

    Other random thoughts on the job:
    Drop the steering wheel down to get more room to pull back the dash.
    Disconnect the negative battery cable and wait a few minutes before
    disconnecting any airbag related wiring on and around the steering
    column or passenger side airbag. Drain the coolant long before you
    start. Use new green A/C orings and lube them with PAG oil before
    reassembly. Take out the heater, instrument panel, and radio
    components first to get a look at hidden bolts. Remove any A pillar
    and kick panel trim that you think might get in the way. When all of
    this stuff is out of the way the dash will move fairly easily. Be
    careful with the heater core pipes. Break the heater hose adhesion
    with a hose removal tool (a blunt pick shaped tool); don't try to twist
    them loose with pliers like a butcher.

    Toyota MDT in MO
     
    Comboverfish, Jul 3, 2005
    #4
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