2001 Intrepid SE - Some Questions

I'm planning on purchasing a 3-year old, 35K miles Dodge Intrepid SE (pretty
much the base model with only minor upgrade options - CD Player and Sunroof)
that comes with the 2.7L engine. I'm pretty familiar with the history of
the LH since I also own a 3.5L 1996 Eagle Vision TSI and with Chrysler
products in general since I also own a 1999 3.8L T&C minivan and have owned
several other Chryslers over the years.

I've followed the recent 2.7L discussion thread with a great deal of
interest and since I know the previous owner has done 3K mile oil changes
and also know that he takes very good care of the vehicle, and given the low
mileage, I am willing to take a risk on this engine.

Some Questions:

Does anyone have a Chrysler Factory Service Manual for this vehicle that
they no longer need and would be willing to sell? Or, alternatively any
ideas other than purchasing at full price directly from the dealer? (I've
been very lucky in that I've picked up used FSMs previously on my other
vehicles for not much more than the price of the worthless Chilton's so
thought I'd ask.)

Does the 2.7L use a timing belt or does it have a chain? I ask since
discussion threads have referenced a chain, but the owner's manual which I
read through last night only references replacement of the timing belt (no
specification of which engine so appears to apply to all 2.7L, 3.2L, 3.5L)
at 100K miles in the service schedule.

Is the 2.7L engine interference or non-interference?

Does the 2.7L take the same oil filter as the 3.3L, 3.5L, and 3.8L? (I
don't have the car yet so have not looked to see if it is the same size, but
if so, this would be nice since I already buy these a dozen or so at a
time.)

Is it true that the fuel filter is actually in the tank and that the
suggested replacement schedule is 100K miles along with the fuel pump?
(Seems like a poor design to move from the in-line filter on the older LH.)

Is the 4-speed transmission basically the same as the one I have in my
Eagle? The Eagle has the Autostick and the low end ES Intrepid does not,
but is it actually different otherwise? I see they recommend a 48K mile
transmission fluid and filter change in the B schedule. Given the history
of this transmission, I've been doing this at 30K miles in all my other
Chryslers and just wondered if they made any substantial improvements.

I know about poor quality of the original brake rotors and have heard there
is a door solenoid problem, but that this may have been corrected before
2001. What other issues do I need to be on the lookout for on this vehicle?

Thanks in advance for your input and experiences with this car and the 2.7L
drivetrain.

Bob

 

Does the 2.7L use a timing belt or does it have a chain? I ask since

Chain. Definitely. 3.2/3.5 have a belt with a 105K mile replacement
interval. I've seen recommendations that 2.7Ls get their chains replaced at
75K, but it's probably overkill.

Interference. From what I understand, most chain-timed engines are,
however.

Not sure, but I would be surprised if it didn't. It's probably the
shortened version of the FL-1A /PH8A filter. Fram PH16 (can't remember the
number of the Purolator I actually use.) If the mounting position is like
that on the 3.2L, a full-length filter will fit, by the way.

Yes, it's in the tank. I'm not aware of a service interval, but there could
be one.

Basically the same with improvements and different gearing. 42LE
transmission.

YMMV. My 1998's are occasionally noisy but otherwise okay.

I really would hold out for a 3.2L or 3.5L. Other than that, they're pretty
solid.

--Geoff

 

Bob Shuman wrote:

It uses chains, and the chain tensioning system is apparently one of its
weak spots.

Interference, which is why the chain tensioning system failures are so
disastrous.

Basically the same, but its had hardware, software, or both improved
almost every year its been in production. And my original '93 lasted
150,000 miles, so I really never have thought it was a particularly bad
transmission. I think its reputation has suffered very badly from idiots
putting fluids other than ATF+3 in it, or replacing it when the only
thing broken was a sensor. Yes, it did have some POTENTIAL hardware
problems that showed up from time-to-time (bump stop, broken snap-rings
in early models) but nothing to deserve the reputation it got.

 

Hmmm - where'd you see the 75k mile chain replacement recommendation,
Geoff? I've got 120k on mine now, and after mentioning that several
times here and elsewhere, have not had any kind of replacement interval
brought to my attention. The FSM doesn't show chain replacement in
either the Sched. A or B.

Same filter for 2.7/3.2/3.5 - Pure One™ is the PL14670. Regarding using
the longer version (FL-1A/Pure One™), it is highly inadvisable to use
that on the 2.7L engine. That is because, unlike with the 3.2 and 3.5,
the filter on the 2.7 hangs straight down, is recessed and well
protected by the frame and oil pan, and its end is about flush (slightly
recessed) with the bottom of the oil pan and frame. The longer filter
would extend quite a bit beyond the frame and bottom of the oil pan and
be *very* vulnerable to puncture/damage by road debris, dips, etc.

There is no service interval. Short of an episode of really bad gas or
trash, it is designed and intended to last the life of the car. From
reading of the various LH car forums for a couple of years, it appears
that reality agrees with that intent.

I will add that all of the things (controls, indicators, computers) that
make it an AutoStick are external to the tranny - tranny itself is
identical for A/S vs. non-A/S.

I will point out that the final drive gearing (chain and sprocket setup)
that comes with the 2.7 is lower than what comes with the 3.2 and 3.5 -
exceptions are the 300M Special (and I think Intrepid R/T) - which comes
with the same gearing as the 2.7L. One of the first performance mods
that non-Special 300M'ers often do is change the final drive sprockets
to the 2.7L/Special set. (There are other even lower gearing sprockets
available, namely Prowler sprockets and some aftermarket, but the
2.7/Special combination is the least expensive and is a noticeable
enhancement).

I think by 2001 MY they all came from the factory with 16" or larger
wheels and the larger rotors (Ø297mm vs. Ø282mm). If not (i.e., if it
came with 15" wheels), you can upgrade to the larger rotors with a small
investment of time and money (ask if interested, otherwise, I'll not
bore you with the details - I did it on my Concorde that came from the
factory with 15" steel wheels).

If yours does in fact have the 16" wheels, you can swap the rotors out
for the PHP/PHG (300M PHP = Performance Handling Package = 300M PGP =
Performance Group Package = R/T Intrepid) rotors - no mods at all needed
- just get the PHP rotors (NAPA P/N 86777 - go by the part number, not
by NAPA's in-store application guide, which is incorrect) and put them
on in place of the originals. PHP rotors are vented on the curbside,
non-PHP are vented from the engine side - that's the only difference.
The only situation where that might not be an advantage is if you have
the factory steel wheels (relatively closed off) vs. alloys (much more
open for good air flow with the outside venting). If you have steel
wheels, and you want to do a little appearance and minor brake upgrade,
get some alloys and then switch over to PHP rotors. (FYI: All previous
comments about rotors apply to the fronts. All 2nd gen LH rear rotors
are the *exact* same part - no variations/options on the rear brakes,
other than maybe pad compound.)

I've never had any problems with my 99's solenoids either - not even
noisy. But you do read of failures here and elsewhere.

Window lift motors were a problem, but I believe those were ironed out
well before the 2001 MY.

Headlight faces get extremely scratchy and hazy, but that seems to be
pretty common among many cars these days with the plastic lenses. Plan
on replacing every 3 to 5 years.

Your 2.7 is probably OK (re: sludge) with the low mileage and
maintenance care. What type of driving has it had? Mostly highway, or
mostly stop & go/short trip?

In any case, as a possible corrective (in case some sludging has
started) and future preemptive, I would definitely either use synthetic
or put 1/4 qt. (8 oz.) of Marvel Mystery Oil in the crankcase with each
oil change. Whichever one you go with, replace the filter with *each*
oil change, at least for the first 3 or 4 (maybe indefinitely - that's
what I do).

Bill Putney
(to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with "x")

 

Oops - meant to provide the Pure One™ number in the parentheses there
for the longer filter (which, again, you should not use for the 2.7 for
the reasons given in that post). It's PL30001.

Bill Putney
(to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with "x")

 

Bill,
Geoff,
Steve,

Thanks for the input. I went ahead and made the purchase and spent today
cleaning it up. I like that it does take the same oil filter. I too use
the Pure One filters and have about a dozen on the shelf already PL14670.
On the wheels, I have he 16" ones and they are the basic steel version.
I'll probably just live with them unless the right deal comes along since
they have fairly new tires. I'll probably need to do the brakes here
shortly so will keep the higher performance rotors in mind. On the
transmission, I've had good luck with the trans in the Vision but I've
changed the fluid and filter every 30K miles. On the engine, I'll probably
do a quick flush at the next change and I always change the filter and oil
every 3K miles.

Bob


We will see how the engine and rest of the vehicle hold up for the next few
years.


"

 

It was a recommendation by an independent shop's website, not an
official recommendation. Which is why I think it's overkill.

Mine are just *starting* to cloud up slightly along the uppermost
surface from the inside. I wonder if there's a way to slow this down
or eliminate it?

--Geoff