2001 Dodge Ram PU, Change Differential oil

The dealer insisted that I change my differential oil to retain my warranty.
After only 12,000 miles. 2WD, 5.9, automatic. Is this mandatory or needed?
Thanks
Bob AZ

 

What does your Owners Manual state? If the OM doesn't state a specific
time/milage spec for diff lube change out, it's probably considered
lifetime unless other work needs to be performed. Dealer can't refuse
warranty work if fluids are changed at factory specified intervals.

Sounds more like a dealer trying to pad his business bottom line by
being overly conservative on fluid change intervals, and if so, may be
time to find a different dealer. You may want to have a small sample of
diff lube analyxed by an indepentant lab speciallizing in lubrication
fluid analysis.

 

If you go by schedule 'A', it is not needed. Schedule "B" calls for it every
12,000 miles IIRC. Do you tow, haul loads on a fairly regular basis? If not,
use schedule "A" and not worry about it.

Chances are the dealer was not trying to pad his bottom line, just was going
by the book and didn't check with you first on how the truck was used.

Denny

 

Denny

If you go by schedule 'A', it is not needed. Schedule "B" calls for it every
12,000 miles IIRC. Do you tow, haul loads on a fairly regular basis? If not,
use schedule "A" and not worry about it.

I just checked the schedule and for schedule B it does call for changing the
read end oil every 12,000 miles. A $60.00 service item. It does seem like a
money maker since I am sure it takes less than 10 minutes. The oil was charged
as $10.60. What has me wondering is what is the problem with the rear end? My
72 Dodge PU which never had an easy week for over 30 years and 300K miles never
had new oil in the rear end and never gave a problem.
I will be changing the rear end oil in the future. And I will have a receipt.
Bob AZ

 

It probably does take more than 10 minutes. By the time you take out the
10-12 bolts, remove the cover, let the oil drip a bit, clean off the old
sealer, squeeze out the new sealer, torque down the bolts and refill it, I'm
guessing about half an hour. I abuse a truck, using it for plowing snow and
around the farm. I change all fluids every fall. I've found over the years,
that changing fluid in the equipment and trucks is cheaper than fixing them
when (or if) they break. It works for me, if it doesn't fit your useabe, so
be it. <G>

Denny

 

What does the owners manual say? Do you tow with the truck? If you do,
then this may well be required in the "severe" service maintenance schedule.


Matt

 

Denny

Somewhere I read that what is required is to suck out the old oil and put in
new. Nothing about removing the cover. I will check into it some more.
Bob AZ

 

There is a suction gun that you can get to do this, looks allot like the
barrel of a grease gun with a hose on the end instead of the pump. It will
work but it doesn't get all the old oil out, just most of it. And you also
don't get the chance to see if there is any metal shavings laying in the
bottom of the housing or get a look at the wear on the teeth.

Denny

 

On a related topic-

A few months ago (when I brought my 300 in to have that seat-bolt
thing fixed), I found out that I was over-due for changing my
differential and power-steering fluid. I told the shop guy that I've
been following the instructions in the little maintainence book and
brought the car in roughly on schedule for the past 3-4 years. I had
a close look at the booklet and sure enough it DOESN'T mention
differential or PS fluid changes. I pointed this out to him, and made
him aware that I was some-what ticked off that

1) The maintenance booklet, which is a Chrysler publication, and which
is surrenderred to the shop for them to fill out each time I bring the
car in for scheduled maintenence, makes no mention of differential or
PS fluid changes.

2) The people performing the scheduled maintenance made no attempt to
inform me of scheduled change-out of these fluids each time I brought
the car in for oil changes and tire rotations, even though it was
clear that I was making attempts to follow the service schedule as
outlined in THEIR OWN FUCKING SERVICE BOOKLET THAT CAME WITH THE CAR.

The shop guy said that the booklet is a generic chrysler publication
and is not specific for any particular vehicle. That seems like a
weak argument and by rights it wouldn't kill chrysler if they printed
a generic service booklet for passenger cars that covered stuff like
this.

So I was some-what ticked off that the regular service I was trying to
adhere to was incomplete and even the dealership didn't take any steps
to point out the items missing from the service booklet.

But power steering fluid? Is that really necessary to change every 20
or 30k miles? Heck, I never changes the differential or PS fluid on
my older MoPars. Wasn't the change interval for the rear differential
fluid on 60's and early 70's cars something like 100k miles?

 

That can be done, but isn't the right way in my opinion. You really
want to get out the sediment and you'll likely miss a lot trying to suck
out the oil with a hose. Also, I like to inspect the gears for abnormal
wear, signs of overheating, etc., and that is hard to do if you don't
pull the cover.


Matt

 

Matt, Denny et al.

I took a look at the "differential" and sure enough it has a removeable cover.
I looked at the lubrication section of the Service manual and it makes no
mention of how to change the fluid. I am persuing the manual more closely later
this night. The cover on my vehicle has a coating of oil like it was not
cleaned up after its removal. If it was indeed removed. So I am going to take
it to a car wash, clean it and look at after a few days. I don't know whether
it uses a gasket or sealing compound like permatex. But I will find out.
I have read the Owners manual that is specific to the vehicle and it does
mention changing the diff fluid at 12K mile intervals. So I will get some of
the correct gear oil, wahtever is needed for gasket material and be ready.
However as little as I drive the truck it will be 2 years now when it needs
changing.
I just am not pleased that Chrysler-Dodge has built a diff that needs the oil
replaced everyt 12K and my 72 Dodge PU went 300K with no problems. I have to
use the schedule B because I do mostly less than 10 miles trips. No Off-Road,
yes I do live in the desert and we have a hot summer but his made no difference
to my 72. It is now in the Nevada desertr hauling cactus. And I am sure the
diff is still doing its' thing.
To the 300 reply-I have a 2001 LHS and the diff and transmission is the same
unit. I think. I can understand a more frequent lube schedule. But since I am
at the 4K mile point there has not been an occasion to do more than change the
oil. I will be checking the Schedule for this also.
Thanks for the replies. I am learning.
Bob AZ

 

Typically the details of such procedures are in the service manual, not
the owners manual. Pays to buy one if you plan to do much of your own
maintenance and repairs.

I'll bet your 72 Dodge had the same requirement, you probably just
didn't know it. Not changing the diff oil on schedule isn't life or
death and it might last a long time without changes, but then again it
might not. Cheap insurance. Does your current truck have a limited
slip differential? If it does, this is another reason the oil might
need to be changed more often and also you may need a special oil or
additive if you have a limited slip diff.


Matt

 

Matt

<<I'll bet your 72 Dodge had the same requirement, you probably just
didn't know it.>>
For curiosity I just checked the Service manual for my 72. 32,000 miles is the
recommended interval.

<< Does your current truck have a limited
slip differential?>>

A conventional differential. I did have a choice but there was no real need.

Take care and thanks for the input.
Bob AZ

 

I have a 99 Ram 1500 4x4 and followed the schedulue A maintenance. I
decided at 75K to change the front and rear differential fluid anyway.
I found 2 steal plates the size of a penny at the bottom of the rear
diff case and the gear oil was full of metal flakes. I cleaned out the
rear diff the best I could, replaced the cover, and filled with new
synthetic gear oil and limited sliff additive. There still doesn't
seem to be a problem.

Anyway, I took the plates to the dealer and they quoted me $1K on the
low-end and 2.5K on the high end. This just happened last night, so I
still have to decide whether to sell it, fix it myself, take it
somewhere else, or let the dealer rip me off.

I write this for 3 reasons. First, if anyone has any recommendations
for me, I'd appreciate them. Second, to point out that you SHOULD
change your rear diff fairly frequently to catch problems early on. I
wish I would of. Thirdly, don't get the fluid sucked out of the fill
hole. Taking the cover off is the only way to check for problems.

 

What do these steel "plates" look like? Where did they come from
according to your dealer? And you can buy a good used rear assembly
from a salvage yard for much less than $1,000.


Matt