2000 grand caravan won't shift above 2nd

Just drove my daughter to a friends house, 20 minute trip - no problems,
shut off the vehicle, went to leave and check engine light is on and my
tranny won't go above 2nd. I have never had any mechanical problems with
this vehicle before. I am hoping it is something simple as opposed to a
tranny rebuild as it happened so fast with no signs of tranny problems.
Were would I start trouble shooting?

Thx
Gary

PS I have the sport, towing package and 3.8L engine.

 

Doing an internet search it seems that my vehicle is in "limp mode". Using
a method to show error codes on my odometer I see that is shows engine
diagnostic code 23. Doing another internet search on "23" I find a throttle
body temperature senor failure or bad connection/wiring.

Does this sound like I am heading in the right direction?

Thx
Gary

 

vehicle speed sensor. 80 bucks to test and 80 for the part. (prolly)

 

vehicle speed sensor. 80 bucks to test and 80 for the part. (prolly)

 

Gary,

Given no previous symptoms or signs of a pending problem, I'd suspect an
electronic sensor that provides input to the transmission, or possibly an
internal solenoid failure.

The most common cause of this seems to be a bad vehicle speed sensor. There
are actually two of them used; one that provides the speed of the wheels
(output) and also drives the vehicle speedometer, and a 2nd that is used to
provide the speed of the engine shaft (input). Do you still have a working
speedometer? If so, it may be the input speed sensor. If not, it
definitely is the output speed sensor. The sensors themselves are slightly
different and cost at the dealer IIRC is about $25-$30. Replacement is a 5
minute job as they simply have one clip on connector and then screw into the
trans body. In some cases the connection ns themselves can be corroded, and
simply cleaning is all that is required, but in most cases the VSS outright
just plain stops working when it fails.

If the sensors are good, then it could be a solenoid. In any event, reading
the transmission computer trouble code will provide you with the next
steps. Make sure if you do not do the work yourself to take it to someone
that has a good reputation AND experience with Chrysler transmissions since
many will tell you that you need an expensive rebuild, which is likely not
the case based on the failure description.

Good luck!

Bob

 

Thanks for that insight!!!!

Maybe this would help. I disconnected the neg on the battery and
reconnected. I was able to drive for about 20 min again before the light
came on and it went into limp mode again. I did not go into limp mode while
I was driving but while I stopped and had it in park both times after 20 min
of driving. When I went back into gear is when it went into limp mode.

I still have my speedometer. On top of that about a month and a half ago I
was on the highway and a semi hit a wolf in front of me and I was right
behind him ready to pass. Boom I hit the dead carcass and broke up my front
bumper. A big mess it took several washings before I could get all the meat
and bones off the underside. Right after I started to lose rad fluid and
found I had a cracked thermostat housing. I just kept topping up to finish
my trip, but to jar the vehicle that much I could have damaged some wiring
under the van. I am going to put it up on ramps right now and have a look.
Two years ago I was also in an accident to the front end where a fellow went
through a stop sign. I suppose stuff the body shop missed can turn up years
later too????

The error code 23 says that corresponds to a throttle body temperature
sensor failure but my Haynes book says that is only applicable to 4 cyl and
mine is the 3.8L???

Just got back from Canadian Tire and they do not carry any sensors that it
might be so I will have to see if I can get to a jobber or dealer on Monday.

I have to get the kids to school Monday/Tuesday and I can take Wednesday off
to fix the van. Can I do any damage driving it up to say 60km/h in 2nd for
a 20 min round trip 4 times or should I not drive it at all in limp mode?

Thx again
Gary

 

This "trick" has burned up many a Chrysler transmission by people who
cleverly figure out they can "reset" the transmission by restarting the
vehicle. Fix it now before a small problem becomes a large one.

NAPA will have them.

 

Nope, I wasn't using the trick to just reset the tranny, I was hoping I
could recreate the problem by wiggling connectors to see if that gives me
the code again. I have removed and cleaned as necessary any connectors and
checked all visible wiring. Everything looks good under there. I was
hoping there would be some obvious damage somewhere to a sensor/wire. The
only connector I haven't fooled with is the input sensor. The van is still
on ramps so I am going to do that right now.

Tomorrow I will go to NAPA and pick up an input speed sensor and replace it.
Failing that I think I will then replace the solenoid pack. If that doesn't
work then......??? Suggestions welcome

I guess I wasted $19.95 on the Hayes book - you are correct, I'm trying to
find locations for some of these sensors and the book nowhere even discusses
them let alone show a diagram.

Gary

 

I'd suggest you go ahead and replace the input sensor as it is fairly cheap
and easy to do, and if that does not fix things then get the codes read by
competent transmission service that has experience with Chrysler
transmissions before replacing the solenoid pack. The computer diagnostic
code is needed to be able to point you in the right direction. Without it
you are just replacing parts and it could get expensive with no guarantee
you will fix the problem.

Based on what you've said, it does not sound as though this is related to
the previous work done or your encounter with the deer. I also suspect you
may not have the correct error code description for this problem.

Bob

 

Don't. If the input speed sensor doesn't fix it, it's time for systematic
diagnosis.

 

You need a diagnostic computer to read the trans codes.

You should drive it as little as possible. Take it to a competent Chrysler
trans shop
and if they tell you it needs a rebuild, go to a second shop for a second
opinion.
Without a vehicle service manual your just screwing around wasting your
time.

Once it comes back from the shop then use this as a lesson to start
obtaining all
the service information, then once you have obtained it, read it. The
factory service
manual is a great tool but Chrysler also puts out a number of other manuals
that
pertain, espically if you have a diagnostic computer. (which aren't that
expensive
if you get them used off Ebay)

Ted

 

Thanks for that. I replaced the input speed sensor this morning thinking
that might do it. Disconnected the battery to clear the light. Took it for
a run and the light came back on. :-(. Drove it to a repair shop that I go
to and they pulled a code which says symptom: P0755-2-4 Solenoid circuit,
with a list of 10 possible causes. The mechanic seems to think it is the
solenoid pack but didn't want to replace it only to find that the code
showed up again. They said their best tranny guy was at another location and
that I should go over there.

Went to the other location and he can't look at it until tomorrow (Tuesday)
morning. He says that the solenoid pack doesn't go too often, but I told
him that I got hit by a fellow who went through a stop sign the Christmas
eve before last - almost $6000 damage to van - and he said that it could
have been damaged in the accident and is showing up now, but he said he
would hook it up to better diagnostic equipment than they had at the other
shop specific to trannys. He said it could even be a retaining clip that is
known to snap in those VIN L (3.8L) trannys and would need to be opened up.

I'm hoping for the cheapest option.

Gary ;-)

 

: "The mechanic seems to think it is the solenoid pack but
didn't want to replace it only to find that the code showed up again. They
said their best tranny guy was at another location and that I should go over
there."

He sounds like a good shop. Thye just didn't take your money. They dii
what was best for the customer and sent you somewhere else that was best
equiped to handle your problem. I would consider doing business with them
if I every needed their services.

Sarge

 

On top of that the diagnostic charge was $97 + tax (CAD) and said it had to
be paid to released the vehicle. Then the guy went into the back and came
back and said no charge. He said if I am going to the other shop the
mechanic there will want to do his own diagnostics and they did not want to
charge me twice! Rare to find these days.

 

Update - Just got back from picking up the van. It was the solenoid pack.
Very thankful it was not a tranny problem - happy to pay the $468.86 (CAD)
($385 USD) bill.

Breakdown;
1hr Diagnostic $83
1.5 labor $124.50
Fluid $12
A604 Solenoid Pack $200
Shop supplies $18.68
Balance tax

A happy Gary,
PS thx to all who gave me insight into this problem. I like to do my own
repairs, but once it was diagnosed and they did not burn me on the part
price, it wasn't worth my time to do the labor.

 

I am having the very same symptoms with my '97 T & C Lxi, 3.8L.

I am a mechanic so I have access to the computer diagnostic codes.
The codes I have retreived are P0733 and P0700; incorrect ratio gear 3
and trans control system malfunction.
This is all I found out and, of course, I have been assuming the wors
until I found this thread!

I will look into the solenoid pack as soon as I get back to the shop
:

 

The 1st mechanic found P0755-2-4 "solenoid circuit" in his diagnostics, and
P1784, and P0731 "additional gear ratio error in 1st". But those were
engine codes. They told me to take it to their tranny specialist at another
shop and he did his own diagnostics with what he said were specific tranny
computer readers which then told him it was the solenoid pack.

However after the repair I sometimes get a small jerk when slowing down and
it shifts into 1st and sometimes a chatter/vibration (vibrates the change in
the ashtray) when going from 2nd to 3rd. I looked at my Hayes manual and it
says that after the repair the transmission needs to "relearn" how to shift
properly. It has only been about a week or so so I hope it will train
itself and go shifting problem will go away.

Hope you find a cheaper problem than a tranny rebuild.

Gary

 

I ran it through a series of switch tests and, apparently, my solenoid
all check out.
Now I need to trace the wiring and look for an electrical problem
Maybe the PCM or transmission control module,
or possibly a bad connector or wire.
It seems like it may be electrical and not mechanical

 

how about the solenoid relay?

 

or the input sensor?