2000 Concorde 3.2 Liter - trunk lock

Need advice re: Electric trunk lock

It stopped working a few years back and the dealer quoted over $500 to fix.

Lately I decided to try it myself - went to junk yard and bought a new
electric lock for the trunk. I swapped it out with the original and it
still would not work with either the in-dash button nor the RKE switch.

I have discovered that these switches actually control a second unit within
the body control module - thus the high repair estimate.

Is there a way to bypass the BCM and get this thing working?

If not, and I have to replace the whole BCM, how do I do it and how do I
get it to recognize my car (without buying a code reader, or with some
cheap idiot light reader)?

Or, is there an aftermarket product that will work with my existing RKE?

Thanks,



Carey

 

Perhaps this will help:
http://images20.fotki.com/v369/filepYFY/d19fb/4/42816/1994050/71540946.gif

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

 

That's the diagram I have as well (Haynes manual). Are you thinking the
Deck Lid Release Solenoid can be R&R'd from the BCM? That would be nice.

I found three identical solenoids in the fuse block at the end of the
driver's side dash, which appear to control the various door locks. I
unplugged and interchanged them with no change. The door locks all work
with door switches and RKE, but the trunk lock doesn't work. I should have
said this at first! Also, I used a meter to check supply voltage to
ground at both terminals (and across each other) which plug into the
truck lock when the switches were depressed, but no voltage. Also, I
couldn't find any visible damage to the wires.

Thanks so much for your reply!!!


Carey

 

follow the wire from the trunk actuator forward when it's close to the drivers
seat snipit off, cover the end you won't use and then attach the other end to one
side of the trunk button then attach a fused battery feed wire to the other
terminal of the switch and you have a working trunk release but it will not work
with a keyfob
it will work in a pinch

 

You're welcome.

Those three things in the fuse block are actually relays (similar to
solenoids, but not the same). In that drawing I linked, the thing in
the BCM labeled "Decklid Release Solenoid" is meant to mean the signal
that controls the decklid release solenoid (the latch in the trunk lid)
- and in fact in other schematics in the FSM showing that same BCM
output is labeled "Decklid Release Control". Doesn't help when the
manufacturers use inconsistent, and, in this case, incorrect terminology.

Have you looked at that decklid release control signal with the
voltmeter right at the BCM? That would confirm whether the problem is
in the BCM or instead is a broken wire between the BCM and the trunk lid
(I know - that would be too easy - but it is possible.

Have you tried disconnecting the battery for five minutes (disconnect
the ground connection at the negative jump post on the passenger side
strut tower)? It isn't all that unusual for resetting the BCM likwe
that to fix this type of problem - certainly wouldn't hurt to try.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

 

One wire to the switch is already connected to battery V+ thru a fuse -
so he would not have to mess with that wire going to the switch. He
would need to cut the wire between the switch and BCM and the wire
betwen the BCM and the decklid solenoid, and splice the one wire from
the switch to the wire going to the decklod solenoid to accomplish what
you're getting at.

The only concern would be if the switch could handle the solenoid
current. Right now it only switches a low current signal input to the
BCM. It might be OK directly driving the solenoid, but it is a
consideration.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

 

it's a 12volt 15 amp circuit

 

You're saying that you know for a fact that the switch itself is
designed for 15 amps even though the input to the BCM is probably a few
tens of milliamps or less?

What I am asking is are you saying the switch itself can handle the
current of directly driving the solenoid, and how do you know that?

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')