2000 Chrysler Concorde LXi - Tests Practical?

I've taken pretty good care of this car and it's served me well. Even
with 123,000 miles, it looks amazingly good. I put a new suspension
system on the car last year (carriage mounts, struts with coils all
around).

If a Chrysler mechanic can do what I think he can, I'd like to have my
car hooked up to their diagnostic machines and printouts of anything
that might be wrong. I've heard there are updates to the computer that
impact such things as fuel mileage and transmission shifting. I've never
been called for any such updates. Specifically, I'd like to make sure I
have no power loss in any cylinder and the transmission is shifting
properly. I do feel a slight hesitation - like a little bump - when it
shifts from low to drive. Around 15 - 20 MPH I'd say. And over the past
6000 - 8000 miles my MPG has slipped about 0.5 MPG but there has been a
change in driving pattern which probably accounts for that (less long
distance; more short with stop and go).

Does it make sense to do this and if so, what can I expect to spend for
such a thorough checkup?

 

your drop in mileage may very well be due to the dang 10% ethanol fuel we
are all forced to run now......

 

Good point. Got a rough idea when that began filtering in? It's been 9
months since I changed driving patterns.

 

depends on your state. i first noticed it about 3-4 years ago here in fla.

 

I called a local Chrysler dealer service manager (Summit County Ohio)
and discussed my concerns. He asked if my engine light was coming on.
When I told him "No", he told me he wouldn't be able to tell me anything
by hooking up his machine to the engine. He DID say he could make sure I
had the latest computer updates.

Does it make sense to have a dealership flash the computer? I'd a little
concerned about that old adage, "If it ain't broke... don't fix it." I
was under the impression they could hook their machines to the computer
and simply read the output. He led me to believe he wants to update
it... and see what happens. I'm not too comfortable about that but....
is this recommended for a car with 124,000 miles on it...and no apparent
issues? I simply wanna' keep it that way by catching any significant
issues in advance that I can.

 

they do have freeze frame capabilities on the factory scan tool, to check
the current operating conditions of the engine and trans. it would be damn
hard to trouble shoot a lot of problems if they didnt. but you wind up
sending 2-3 hours of labor for checking every system in the car. Really I'd
ask about the updates, recalls and leave it at that. if it's running good,
the main thing is keeping all the filters, fluids and belts changed at the
right time for YOUR driving conditions. one of the most common thing folks
forget is the radiator hoses. they do tend to get soft at times, especially
the lower one and can suck shut at highway speeds due to suction from the
water pump, or cracked and dried up. don't forget the diff fluid too.

I have 191,000 on my 96 LHS i am currently not driving it due to a bad
trans, but otherwise the engine is still running strong, and clean as a
whistle inside.

by the way, what engine is in there? 3.5?

 

It has a 3.2 engine. All hoses and belts were changed as scheduled...
new water pump replaced when the timing belt was replaced as well.

Any idea what that slight hesitation is was the car shifts at very low
speed? I can often "baby" it and avoid it from slamming into gear. But
then... I'm not even sure it's the transmission. It reminds me of a
universal joint on older cars. I remember that feeling (and replaced the
joint myself if I can recall correctly...a bout 45 years ago.)

The car starts to roll fine with no "bump" until it reaches 10 to 15
mph. Then it's a slight hesitation and I get the sensation that a gear
is suddenly catching. Not hard, but enough to create a "bump". A
passenger wouldn't even notice it unless I described it and pointed it
out when it happened. Been doing that for years but it seems to be a
little more noticeable.

 

got any idea what trans is has? 604? 606?

 

Yes; the DGX 4 speed.

 

a fluid and filter change ( NOT a flush) and getting the dealer to do TCM
update, might be the trick there. its the quickest and cheapest most likely.

 

there is also a TSB for this issue in 96 but not sure it applies to a 2000

 

It's been changed. The only thing remaining is that update then.

 

I've not been too impressed with the two Chrysler dealerships in my area
over the years; mechanic changes. By contrast, there's a specialty
transmission repair (Richard's Garage - Akron) that repaired my '85
Sable a long time ago. They're well respected here and that's what they
do all day long; repair transmissions.

See any downside to letting them make the update? I assume the task
doesn't have to be done by a Chrysler dealer, does it? I doubt it
there's a difference in price. My guess is Richards has more experience
since dealers run the gambit of repairing everything and may even farm
out their transmissions to Richard for all I know.

 

most dealers have 1 or 2 guys that are trans specialists. Plus they get the
factory training and tools. that's not to say independent shops don't get
that info but the dealers get it sooner and have access to the factory for
input if they need it.

Trans shop can do the same updates, and usually the price is good. the
choice is yours.

 

Where can I find this TSB on the web so I can read it and determine if
the issue it addresses is the one I'm experiencing?

 

With what fluid?

Dexron has fewer friction modifiers than ATF+4, hence it isn't as "slippery"
this can make the clutches in the trans grab instead of smoothly engaging,
the TCM/PCM tries to compensate but can't fully. This causes binding and
"bump shift" along with potentially destroying the transmission.

If Dexron was used, with or without Lubegard the fluid needs to be changed
again but now the system must be flushed too to get what is in the torque
converter.

If ATF+4 was used the problem is something else. http://www.centerforqa.com

 

IT was ATF+4, Dan.