1999 Chrysler Concorde Speakers

Discussion in 'Concorde' started by vegascyclist, Jul 26, 2006.

  1. vegascyclist

    vegascyclist Guest

    Now that I have replaced my window clip and door handle. It is time
    for some more fun things. I would like to replace the door speakers.
    Any suggestions on where to purchase new speakers, what brand of
    speakers I should purchase or things I should look out for? I'm tired
    of that crackling sound. Do I need to remove the door panel to replace
    the speaker or just the speaker cover?
     
    vegascyclist, Jul 26, 2006
    #1
  2. vegascyclist

    Bill Putney Guest

    Which audio system came in your Concorde - there are 4 (I believe -
    base, mid-line, Infinity I, and Infinity II) levels of systems, and what
    level you have may affect a good decision on speakers (some are amp
    driven, different power levels and ohm ratings). Do you only have the
    one speaker per front door (i.e., no "sail" speaker) at the front of the
    base of the window opening?

    Chrysler has an odd-duck door speaker attachment screw hole pattern, so
    make sure the speakers you get are for a Chyrsler or come with an
    adapter (which some do), or get the adapters separately.

    And no - you do not need to remove the panel to remove the speakers -
    use your fingers to work that screen out of the door. You will then
    have access to the speaker attachement screws.

    Bill Putney
    (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
    address with the letter 'x')
     
    Bill Putney, Jul 27, 2006
    #2
  3. vegascyclist

    vegascyclist Guest

    I have the Infinity System - not sure if it is the I or II. I do have
    the little sail speakers attached to the door.
     
    vegascyclist, Aug 1, 2006
    #3
  4. vegascyclist

    vegascyclist Guest

    I also have the AM/FM cassette with the single cd player. I saw in a
    previous post your recommendation to buy Pioneer 6 1/2 inch speakers.
    What should you look for in these speakers?
     
    vegascyclist, Aug 1, 2006
    #4
  5. vegascyclist

    Bill Putney Guest

    I am most familiar with the base (meaning lowest level) sytem that came
    in my '99 (no amp, probably different ohms rating). I recently acquired
    a '98 that has the Infinity I system in which both door speakers are
    blown - so I've been looking at that too.

    Since you have the sail speakers, if you have speakers in the rear door,
    then you have the Infinity II. If no speakers in the rear door, then
    you have Infinity I.

    The best advice I can give you is to go on the 300M Club forums
    (http://300mclub.org/forums/index.php?sid=62bf325fbc678c1c6c07ce791b832d81)
    and do a search on speakers. There is an audio sub-forum, so you could
    restrict that search to that forum. The subject of what aftermarket
    speakers will match the two Infinity systems (ohms- and watts-wise) has
    been discussed a lot - doesn't come up much now because it has pretty
    much been beat to death in the past - so you should find some good
    mature info. there - seems that a lot of the recommended choices are
    avaialable at the best prices on ebay.

    If you replace all speakers, you will have more flexibility so that the
    speakers will be matched. If replacing only those 2, then you might be
    more restricted in order to keep the system more balanced.

    Is the center dash speaker also crackling? That's usually the first to
    go. If so, most people say it adds little to the sound quality any way,
    and they disconnect it (I did that on the '98 that I just got - that
    speaker was blown). Sail speakers are also prone to failing - very
    little choice in aftermarket for size and ohms rating for those, but
    they are available - hopefully yours are still OK.

    If you were going to upgrade your audio system, you might consider
    replacing all the speakers with a matched set
    (discussions/recommendations on that on the 300M forums). Anything you
    do in that area will be an ungrade with a modest expenditure if you feel
    like investing a little in the car.

    Consider joining the 300M Club - there are no Concorde forums, and the
    300M and Intepids are 95+% the same car mechanically. Also look at
    www.dodgeintrepid.net forums - younger, more raucous crwod there, but a
    lot of owners hang out on both for info./advice. Both welcome Concorde
    owners.

    Bill Putney
    (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
    address with the letter 'x')
     
    Bill Putney, Aug 2, 2006
    #5
  6. vegascyclist

    vegascyclist Guest

    How can I access the central speaker? Do I have to take the dash off?
    I thought it was the right speaker but you might be correct that it is
    the central speaker.

    Bill
     
    vegascyclist, Aug 2, 2006
    #6
  7. vegascyclist

    Bill Putney Guest

    The tray that goes all the way across the dash that covers the speaker
    would have to be removed to get to the actual speaker. To remove that
    tray, you'd have to remove the A-pillar (the posts between the
    windshield and the door) covers first. If you just want to disable the
    speaker, you don't need to access the speaker itself - you can simply
    snip a wire at the amplifier (behind the passenger-side kick panel if it
    is the Infinity I system - if Infinity II system, amp is in the trunk -
    if no rear door speakers, it is Infinity I). That would be the Pink
    wire with red stripe.

    Bill Putney
    (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
    address with the letter 'x')
     
    Bill Putney, Aug 2, 2006
    #7
  8. vegascyclist

    vegascyclist Guest

    I think it is Infinity I because I don't have any rear door speakers.
    Where is the passenger side kick panel? What color is the wire?

    Thanks for your help.

    Bill

    Also, the new speaker that I bought for the door need to be soldered
    since they don't have the connections like the factory speaker. Any
    suggestions on soldering?
     
    vegascyclist, Sep 1, 2006
    #8
  9. vegascyclist

    Bill Putney Guest

    That would be correct.
    Kick panel - meaning if you're sitting in the passenger seat, it's the
    plastic panel that your right foot hits if you move it to the right.
    IOW, it's immediately in front of the door, below the dash, extends down
    to carpet level. Remove one screw and pull the sill cover back to get
    the kick panel out of the way and expose the amp.
    There are two connectors - the two wires to the center speaker are on
    the connector with the greater number of wires. One wire is pink with
    black stripe, the other is pink with red stripe.

    Sometimes the colors can be a little ambiguous, so to help give you
    confidence that you have the right connector and the right wires on that
    connector: There are no wires with any pink on them on the wrong
    connector; both wires are on the third position from one end of the
    connector - IOW, the connector has two parallel rows - one wire is in
    one row, third position from the end of that row, the other wire is
    occupying the exact same position in the other row. Cut either one of
    them (no need to cut both) and tape the cut end that comes from the
    amplifier to ensure that it doesn't short to anything.
    You're welcome. (you had another question - see below)
    Several ways to handle it. I assume the new speakers came with push-on
    connectors compatible with the new speaker's terminals, with pigtails
    (wires) attached. If not, go to the parts store and buy push in
    connectors to fit the speaker terminals - careful - they come in
    different widths. Cut the vehicle harness connectors off and crimp the
    push-in terminals you bought onto the factory harness wires.

    If the speakers came with terminals and pigtails, you could snip the
    connectors that plugged into your factory speakers off of the factory
    harness and solder the pigtails of the new speakers' connectors to the
    wires that you snipped the vehicle's connectors off of. That would be a
    good choice if you're certain you won't ever be switching back to
    factory type speakers (to sell the car or something - might want to save
    the snipped factory connectors - snipped with a couple of inches of wire
    on them - in a zip-lock bag and keep them in the glove compartment just
    in case). Or you could keep the factory connectors attached to the
    harness and splice (wye) in the pigtails that came with the new speakers
    (remove an inch or so of insulation on the factory wires, wrap with ends
    of pigtails, solder and wrap with tape) - and let the factory connectors
    dangle free inside the door.

    Your new speaker terminals are probably marked for negative and
    positive. On your vehicle harness, wires are light green/violet -
    positive, light green/black - negative on left door; light blue/red -
    positive, light blue/black on right door. Be sure to match vehicle wire
    positives and negatives up on the new speakers to ensure that they are
    in phase with each other for best sound. If speaker terminals are not
    marked pos. and neg., arbitrarily pick one to be positive on one
    speaker, and use the correspondiong one on the other speaker to be its
    positive one.

    So what kind of speakers did you end up getting?

    Bill Putney
    (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
    address with the letter 'x')
     
    Bill Putney, Sep 2, 2006
    #9
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